Swiper the Fox

thats how we finally broke ours...3 years of flogging it to death was not a problem...it was when we changed the set-up to a ignition cut launch limiter...it broke on the 2nd pass.

take the wiper off and put a ANDRA sport compact sticker over the hole...thats what i did

you 'gong' boys sure do love your giggle gas...

i am...just fitted new ECU...diff tomm...dogbox friday....tune saturday....9.60's sunday

well done Dave...everything else is nearly right...have another think about the crankshaft though.

and turns the car into a lagpig

up hills on light throttle was murder

How many R34 N1 engines fracture oil pumps?...none that ive heard of...why not? well balanced engine with good quality fresh balancer on the front. its harmonic crank vibration that kills oil pumps...the higher the revs the worse the problem. id spend the extra $600 on an ATI balancer and stick with your N1. this is free advice from someone who has done a lot of work, testing and research on this very issue. At quite a bit of expense.

KEAS are currently developing a transmission based on a GM T400 auto...perfect for drags.

and probably were wearing 13-15 year old rubber balancers on them that were doing little more than helping the belts go round on the front of the engine. So many engines rebuilt with dodgy balancers slapped back on them without a thought. I raced for over 3 years with an N1 at over 8500rpm not a problem. Engine was built by me and properly balanced with a new harmonic balancer fitted. They are not indestructable but if engine is properly built and ran correctly they survive fine in a street application. Yes the Tomei pumps are good...out of the aftermarket the Tomei and JUN are definately the pick of them.

N1 oil pumps are just fine on a street engine as long as 8000rpm is not exceeded too often and a decent balancer is used.

you can "hardbloc" it as i have done to a few... but a correctly set-up engine that is properly balanced will go a long way to saving your block. apoligies for the double post... Hi Ash

the fastest drag skyline in this country makes over 1200hp our car is producing over 900hp both run STD 05U Nissan blocks N1's have a lot of wank factor in my opinion.

agree...apoligies to Ben and all concerned. My issues with Gary should be left out of it. Back on topic... Wait till Ben posts the new graph up...im sure it will make our jaws hit the floor even harder. 40kw more at the same boost level....holy sh1t!!

easy...just use a calculator...like this... http://www.eldemoniorojo.com/calculator.htm

Im not going head to head with Ben...its no contest...his is a better engine. It just shits me when everybody goes "drag car" "drag engine" etc and when you look at both combo's they are not that far removed from each other from what is in my eyes the ultimate street/track setup. mines not too shabby though, and makes power and torque to rival some of the finest combo's and would make some of the so called circuit engines look a little silly. People have been drooling over it (myself included) and its a credit to him of what he has created. A massive amount of research, testing and time has gone into it. The fact he's gone and sold the car is a real shame...i would have loved a drive.

from memory mine was 500Nm at 80kph...topping out at 1100Nm at 130kph...holding dead flat till 160kph and only dropping down to 900Nm at 200kph 3rd gear though with adjusted ramping to suit the gear loading to read true. Not bad for an engine 'apparantly' only built for top end drag racing. Im sure it runs the right numbers to take on most circuit racers. Pump fuel 20psi...it made 1300Nm on race fuel with 25psi. ill get the dyno fella tomm to send me a graph... You already know your a sure thing Richard, as when you get to my age you knock back no women and very few men.

look at the scale 0-27000N doesnt show a lot a scale 3 times smaller on the same grid would be better i.e. 0-9000 some say a Croydon AFR scale is bad.

Jack...you make all the sense in the world. Its not set up as a drag engine though...its got more low-down torque than most street/circuit cars. If it was a drag engine it would be wearing high mounts. If i won Tatts id set it up with a big brake kit, see Ben for some good suspension and cut loose on the twisties. Finally putting the issue to bed. Dunc's its gone to PM...its time some home truths were told

well done Brendon...fortunately your skill with a welder is better than your skills with a camera...hehe

no offence...just thought id post up some reality. Ive heard John Pelican dribble that line more times than Ive cared to remember. Autotek may have their dyno set differently...both CRD and Autosalon use industry standard locked perameters (shootout) so that figures all over Aust. can be directly compared. It is extremely accurate, as most competitors will agree and all CRD's cars have made nearly identical power at Autosalon whether it be in Adelaide, Melbourne, Brisbane, Gold Coast, Sydney or Newcastle. its no co-incidence, its a fact than can be backed up numerous times with concrete evidence witnessed in front of thousands of onlookers. Again im no longer affiliated with CRD so i gain no benefit from sharing some real results. You engine is in safe hands at Red R...heck id even build one for Sydneykid if i had too.

heart breaking...and knuckle breaking...i did this job twice on the weekend. Put balance pipe manifolds on my car Ben...it seems to have softened it up a little. see thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ba...-R-t218709.html will be dynoing it friday too see what just that change has done.

And i suppose John "Pelican" at unique fed you that dribble...ive heard him say it to customers time and time again about so called "Croydon Watts"...heres some proof My car CRD 439kw...the next day at Autosalon Sydney 437kw CRD 467kw (at night with cold air) the next day at Autosalon Newcastle 455kw (the heat of the day in an auditorium with not much fresh air) CRD 486kw...the next day at Autosalon final battle Sydney 487kw then the next day took a little bit of fuel out of it to push it over 500kw with 502.4kw. Both dyno's are of a different make from Croydon (Dynodynamics) and Autosalon (Mainline dynolog), and the dyno in Newcastle is a different Mainline Dynolog to the one used in Sydney. They are so accurate because they are used by skilled operators with more years of experience than most people on here have been alive. So please don't post hearsay dribble you get fed from other workshops. And just for the record I no longer have any affiliation with Croydon Racing.

unfortunately for you spillmer he's 100% correct this time extrude honing the stockers will keep heat in the gas path due to the thick walled construction of the cast items. Ceramic coating them in the proper 'High temp black' (not the fancy chrome crap) is something that will help too.

i was just pointing out Gary's arguement that a higher revving engine with less torque wears more than higher capacity one with more torque...what a load of dribble. the difference in wear rates between the two would be almost negligible for a given power output, as more revs would even up the ledger with the higher wearing torque engine.