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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. No Crust Racing
    Cheers, body loom stays, it was just the engine loom. A mate of mine did his and reckons the loom itself was only $250 worth of materials etc but that he easily spent 24hrs of time on it (and many beers). Said it could be done in 4-8hrs if he wasn't f**king around. Can't see how it would be "that" cheap unless he had some of the tools etc already. I've got some decent DC gear (for solar), but all for bigger stuff (crimpers, strippers etc) nothing for pinning/de-pinning or working on really small stuff. Hmm Gave the top end of the engine a wipe over/tidy up last night and will degrease/pressure wash the bottom half ouside on the weekend, wanted to do the top by hand to avoid issues with plugs etc. Got my oil filter relo and gearbox mount off t and started talking to the buyer about the logistics of freighting it all which I think will happen next week. If I get time this week I'll pull the seats and get the cage out so it can be tidied up and sold then I can start thinking about dropping the car off for the cage work. I know I will go to front and rear towers, but I'm on the fence about triangulating the towers to the dash bar/firewall area as it apparently causes issues with the wiper setup and can be a pain for brakes/plenum etc etc. I was thinking maybe forgo that, but modify the castor arm mounts Nismo style, boxed and with the rod between them to support the bottom of the chassis rails and leave the strut brace to take care of the tops as best it can? As that's something I can DIY I reckon.
  2. No Crust Racing
    ECU and loom out which included removing the SAFC2 from the loom, which was annoying. Heater box etc out for easy access, don't think it will be fun to put back in as the little rod assembly fell off so I'll have to see how that works. I remembered I removed the heater core years back (for weight savings yo) and now I'm wondering if I should source another and reinstall for de-fog or something but I've never had an issue in that respect, thoughts? Who here has made their own loom? I'm on the fence about whether I make one or buy one as I don't think I wanna use the factory SR one. Just need to pop the shifter back in the box, give it all a quick degrease, split the box from the engine then start to arrange shipping (unless he wants the brakes, we'll see). Those dollies are proving quite helpful to I've decided.
  3. No Crust Racing
    lol yes, but I want to keep my car, I've had it longer than any other car I've owned. Anyway, more research to do
  4. No Crust Racing
    Oh and width? I thought ZF was not as wide as DCT also. Both are heavier than suitable manual choices I realise
  5. No Crust Racing
    My understanding was the DCT was more expensive to buy, maintain/repair etc than the ZF and I don't need the clutching capability.
  6. No Crust Racing
    Hah, this wasn't an issue thankfully as I was always ultra anal about routing, but there were some remnants of street car life to deal with. I ended up having to just cut one of the rubber lines from the sandwich plate too, I could not get the hose off the press on fittings for the life of me.
  7. No Crust Racing
    Ahh I get you now, from what I understand, the drift cars all go DCT for that reason.
  8. No Crust Racing
    Removed shifter, removed last power steering line, removed engine mounts (may have damaged a thread on one, will run a die over it and see) dropped gearbox mount and started to remove the lot, then went back and removed clutch slave line I forgot..😅 before easing her out. And that was that, 32yrs of life in that shell, 146 or so thousand k's, maybe 20 track days/events (with me), and now it sits on the floor. Need to split the box, remove engine loom and ECU from the car then lay out all the pieces to discuss with buyer. I'm going to hit it with degreaser and a pressure wash before I ship it too I think. Engine bay is filthy and I've learned alot about what I would and wouldn't do again mods/repair wise on this engine seeing how some stuff has held up or not.
  9. No Crust Racing
    Yeah but it's a Nissan automatic, hardly a fair comparison 😂
  10. No Crust Racing
    Do you think Vicroads will let me re-reg my car after it has a full cage???? I've rarely heard of a cat actually collapsing and never personally seen one. What causes it? Heat? Age? Abuse?
  11. No Crust Racing
    Got another FB message last night linking me to a post about how much of a nightmare the HGT was to work with, failed out comes etc. To look at "Turbo Lamik" who is apparently the best tuner in Poland for this sort of stuff (apparently only Poland are doing these ZF swaps coz I think HGT are there too?). So I'll have a look at that also.
  12. No Crust Racing
    Adaptor kits exist for zf... Do it....
  13. No Crust Racing
    I think the difference is the Torque Convertor Clutch in the ZF, that's what separates it from a normal auto AFAIK so far.
  14. No Crust Racing
    Well apparently, look at Johnny Ding on YT and his a90 supra with a lesser version box tracking it regularly. DCT is much more $$ and more complex to repair/maintain/upgrade.
  15. No Crust Racing
    I'm currently chatting to a guy on Facebook Messenger who has one running an S14 and I'm liking everything I'm hearing pretty much
  16. No Crust Racing
    Awesome, thanks Duncan. We'll see what caliper sets come up when the time comes. One step at a time :D
  17. No Crust Racing
    That looks like a sequential shifter? They are also using a DCT not ZF8HP. I see it's a jinx shifter, will take a look.
  18. No Crust Racing
    Guess what's out https://htg-tuning.com/shop/sr20-to-8hp70-adapter-kit-bmw/
  19. No Crust Racing
    Oh and HGT now have this which makes my balls tingle... SR20 to 8HP70 adapter kit (BMW) – HTG tuning (htg-tuning.com)
  20. No Crust Racing
    Engine buyer was also interested in brakes so I've been looking at what I do to determine what I can sell off, talking to lots of mates/reading forums etc and common theme is careful you don't go too big as they have a tendency to lock up easily on S13. I was looking at evo 6-9 front caliper and the 350mm evo x rotor with the alphaomega mounting kit and keeping the R33 twin piston rears but with bigger rotors on 5 stud hub. Even alphaomega are now offering a "WTAC" version now that uses the 20mm thick 370z rear rotor up front instead as they couldn't get the 32mm thick job hot enough for sprint style driving. I would like more hot laps than 1 at a time, but all interesting info. I kinda settled on 350z track Brembo set (far cheaper than GT-R, like 1100-1400 for a full set) which is like 324x30mm front and 300mm rear and I'll run the BM57 also But... like R34 it's 14mm mount so either drill the hub (gktech says there is plenty of meat there but the idea still makes me nervous) or sleeve the caliper like I had done with the CA crown wheel to suit the S15 diff and on the rear Gktech make a caliper mounting bracket to weld on - pics at bottom of their page. 350Z rear Brembo to S chassis/R32/R33 Weld on caliper bracket (gktech.com) Surely that would be enough for me with good pads/rotors given I'm not endurance racing? I still have brake ducts. Otherwise The evo caliper and rotor up front is the other bang for buck option. I can't justify the dollars on a new BBK, I'd like to ideally spend less than 2k or as close it as possible.
  21. No Crust Racing
    Spent some more time last night. I'm about 4hrs in and I thought I'd have it done by now, doesn't help having never done it before I guess but youtube builds make engine removal look fast lol It's not hard but it's time consuming. I cannot get over how awesome it is to have a hoist. Can't get the PS pump line off, the lower section just rotates with the bolt with no room/angle for a spanner so a mate has suggested you either pinch the line to hold it steady and get purchase or remove the bracket to get 24mm on it. Couldn't get the rubber lines from the oil cooler relocator to the sandwich plate off either, had to unthread one end from the thermostat and the just cut the other one in half, because i wont be using those lines again, nor will i ever use push on hoses like that for oil again. Painful to work with. Next step is shifter out, then prop the box, drop the mount and unbolt engine mounts and start removing. After that will be feed engine loom through firewall and remove ECU and it'll be your classic half dismantled roller
  22. No Crust Racing
    So I commented on a WTB casually, and now it seems I have a buyer for the engine/box/ecu package so i've started removing it last night. Have started an FB page for my mates and I have some fun with our builds moving forward https://www.facebook.com/No-Crust-Racing-105366271868243/
  23. No Crust Racing
    Seems the a Level 3/National cage is required by AASA for pretty much any decent event so that's what I'll aim for. Found another local fabricator who has is well recommended and he seems on par with Brown Davis in the 5-6k mark for that type of cage with a few extra's as I want to pick up the front and rear towers as a minimum. Would ideally like to reincofrce/support/tie in the rear subframe mounts and possible triangulate the front towers back into the dash bar/firewall area but I hear it can cause issues with wiper setup. Have also been told to consider brake master/booster arrangement and if I want pedal box, which I wouldn't mind for the front/rear brake bias adjustment but where do you stop as it just seems to snow ball lol
  24. No Crust Racing
    Had a play with the dollies last night, sounds creepy when you phrase it like that. - You will need to put a reasonable amount of force on the car to get it moving initially, after that it will roll along without too much strain. A second person would make the initial start much easier also. - Be careful where you place your hands as you can dent panels with the initial shove given the force needed. I found good success using the corners of the quarters near the boot and opening the door and using the b pillar to get some movement happening. - Setting the direction of the castors before changing directions will help quite a bit, even if you only do the outer 2 castors on 2 dollies, it all helps reduce the effort to change directions. - Rocks on the floor were only a minor issue, I expected the rocks on my shed floor dragged in from the treads on 4wds to stop the dollies instantly, but they seemed to manage better than I expected. Similarly, the cuts in the concrete were not an issue nor was the grit in my floor sealer. - Despite a very level floor and fairly square placement of the dollies, the car always tracks a little off straight when moving it around, as in you want to go straight ahead but the car will be going forward and slightly left etc. The other benefit I've found is that the height of the car off the floor, something I couldn't find a spec on anywhere, is enough to allow a 100mm pad height hoist arm to slide under the car without the use of ramps or blocks, which is very handy. Assembly is very simple, but I couldn't find a torque spec for the nuts so just did a few ugga-duggas and left it at that. Bit more practice will help.
  25. No Crust Racing
    Daily drivers are due for services, so got a start on that and used the hoist for the first time and man does it beat rolling around on the concrete. I'd would like it if it locked out at the highest setting though, the 1900mm lift is a bit deceiving as you need to drop it down another 50-100mm or so to sit it on the last safety pins, I assume you are supposed to always come down to the safeties but I might email the manufacturer just to be certain or I'll wear slimmer sold shoes and not my work boots. Got myself a set of 4 dollies for the Silvia also so I can move it around easily, especially after engine out, and also because storing it on them will make it easier to get the hoist arms under it. See how easy it is to move the car on those soon enough, I've read very mixed things about these. Chased up local fabricator who is talking 7-10k for a cage, am shopping around a little more as I do think I can get something good enough for me for a bit less coin.
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