No Crust Racing

Ahh, That should make them easier to sell. Good luck.

For what it's worth, I have these on my track Silvia and they appear to handle a beating very well. Very strong wheel even after all these years. Good luck with the sale mate, If for some crazy reason you consider selling the 17s separate let me know as I might be interested, mine are a mismatched 17x8 and 17x9 set. EDIT: Just re-read that, are you running 17" fronts and 19" rears? Crazy. If that's correct and not a type then I'll pass on the 17s if they are the front rims in the pic. Check the inside of the rim, the Rays sticker will give you the exact dimensions including offset which others will want to know. Also, for everyone else, these are a suitable disc type to clear decent sized calipers and rotor combos.

Hey Harry, you'll be pleased to know that Jake bought a GQ

I better get in quick then

Bleh, that's 2 from 2, good enough for me. Will hunt around for a second hander.

PM Sent

lol yes application possible with the right wiring and tuning Well it's budget racing you see so it causes me to ask questions about budget options when I see them. Keen to know if anyone has actually used something like this or whether people just spend more to get a second hand Bosch.

I might need to go for a bigger AFM on the S13 (CA18) and have been surprised by the second hand prices of the genuine Bosch units. Saw this on eBay, but have no idea what it is/who makes it. Anyone used a generic Z32? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300zx-Z32-80mm-AFM-MAF-Air-Flow-Meter-22680-30P00-180sx-200sx-R32-R33-R34-/290657714834?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ac8cc292#ht_844wt_1346

Waiting for someone to say they have purchased some parts and that this seller is legit.

You'll have a hard time getting too much info on something that specific for a Territory on a Nissan oriented website. I'd suggest you visit the ford forums and try your luck there as I do when I have queries regarding my BF daily. Good luck.

Literally 2 seconds on google. http://www.etperformance.com.au/webcatalogue/cat_files/Page139.htm

Found that the new loom had a different pin configuration, disassembled the plug, re-arranged the pins into the same order as my original loom and hey presto everything works. My guess is the loom I bought came off an older gen CA.

Mate it varies quite lot depending on suspension setup, spring rates, damper settings, power, weather, track temp blah blah. I've got 595 RS-Rs and run those at about (err memory failing me as it's been a while) I think around 36-38psi HOT, so starting temps around 32-34psi but that's an on S13 so it's lighter. Also, if they are anything in the 595 range other than RS-Rs then the numbers will vary too as the RS-Rs are the softest compound in the range. People here can help you take guesses but ultimately the best way to find out is 1) Call Federal and ask them what they recommend for your car in track conditions (you did post in motorsport so I'll assume you're talking track pressures) and 2) head to the track and start testing. Take a portable compressor with you, get one if you don't have it as you will need it. A good tyres pressure gauge if the compressor doesn't have one, and ideally you also need a pyrometer to measure tyre temps across the tread face as soon as you come in from a session. I am a budget racer, for fun only, so I don't have a pyrometer and just keep tabs on how the car feels at different pressures and how the tread is wearing. It not only varies for the items listed above but also due to driving style, how much you care about tread wear versus lap times etc etc. Get out there and enjoy yourself, you will soon learn at what hot pressure the car/tyre/suspension combo is most happy.

Used but in excellent condition, very well cared for. Screen is as new and scratch free. Belkin Silicon/Gel Case has a few very minor blemishes. Clear plastic box has minor scratches. USB Cable included, but no headphones. Device has been reset to factory defaults ready for a new owner. Device will be padded for shipping and local pickup from Albury/Wodonga is also available. $150 delivered anywhere in Aus or have a crack at the eBay auction. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270895260599#ht_500wt_1156

Not the kind of thing I want to hear about anyone working at Nissan. The guy is clearly a muppet, not because he doesn't know what a VH45DE is but because he can't read a basic Wiki entry and find out it came in a Q45 Infinity. IE that's the car you are looking or online/wreckers etc to source parts. That said, it's a 20yr old engine that was not released in many cars, I would hazard a guess and say there's a good chance you can use something else.

Are you kidding me? Don't mean to be rude mate but a 5 second google will tell you plenty. Here you go lazy arse. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VH_engine#VH45DE

Birds suggested checking cookies. Found they were disable in safari, enabled now and fixed the issue. My guess is an iOS update caused this. Sad that I didn't think of it given I work in IT. As I said to Birds, oh the irony.

Wasn't sure where to put this so mods can move this if needed. Bought another loom for the CA18 as mine were all perished and cracked like most of them out there. Car would not fire with the new loom connected, cranks fine and can see spark arcing to metal if I pull the coils out. Starts fine with the old loom so checked both looms with multimeter and found my old loom gives around 12.04v (dry cell in boot so a bit lower than full voltage as expected) and new loom is 11.95v so I'm assuming that's the issue. My wideband originally wouldn't fire up until it had a full 12v and required a direct earth to get it. Used same earth point for both looms but I'm taking a stab and saying the earth wire (that bolts down to the coil pack frame) is possibly dodgy or I require a direct earth to chassis (though I did some quick testing and found the voltages didn't appear to vary when putting the multimeters black probe anywhere else on the body). Before I go cutting off ends ad crimping new terminals can anyone think of any other reason why one loom would give me lower voltage? My electronics skill is self taught and admittedly rudimentary. cheers

Link me, I can't get it from the website or iTunes, keeps ballsing up when I tried.

When accessing SAU on iPhone (3GS with IOS 5.0X) I can browse threads but cannot reply to them, as I am not signed in. When I attempt to sign in it will loop if my credentials are correct (back to sign in page) or tell me my credentials are incorrect if they actually are. I note a link at the bottom of the SAU forums page too that says get the free IP.Board iphone app, which errors when I try and follow it.

EDIT: SAU doing something weird, double post.

I didn't end up buying that kit as it only included small version of each product. Bought the the big bottle of the ultimate compound (the cutter) maguires applicator pads and microfibre towels and just a basic kitten polish. The car had SO many scratches, I finished polishing it at 12 last night after starting around midday. The Maguires compound was no where near strong enough (The car has definitely spent its life being washed once a week through a brush style auto wash or something) I ended up going to a mates place (panel beater) and using his buffer with a panel beater level quality compound to cut out the scratches then used the Maguires to clear the finer scratches and swirls, then washed it or a second time that day, dried it and polished it. Looks a lot nicer now but took a bloody long time I hate seeing people washing cars at car washes in either brush style auto washes or using the foaming brushes in the bays....

The basic car wash I have is a wash and wax so will need some straight wash and would like to get some new polishing clothes and products too. I'll have a browse through supercheap and see what I come up with as I'd like to do my daily as well.

Hey guys, Just pickd up a Mazda6 for the missus and the dealers detailer was obviously a monkey, I am no pro by any means but I do have a reasonable eye and the swirls/scratches etc are pretty obvious. I was going to grab this today http://www.meguiars.com.au/products/kits/paint-restoration-kit/ and have a go and see what I could do. I don't have an orbital fyi so this would be by hand. Anyone tried that kit? The car mainly suffers from obvious swirls and light scratches everywhere as it looks like it's been washed with an unwashed car wash brush. Car is "Stormy Blue" whic is a very dark black/blue colour. Blue really comes out in the sun. as do the swirls and scratches. For the money, K's and mechanical condition though we could not pass it up. As I understand it, I need to give ita good wash to remove loose dirt, grease etc, clay it, wash it again, get busy with the cutting compound during a decent polish and then give it a wax to seal it up. Looks like that kit would allow me to do all of that and it comes in around $60 I also noticed that on the silver interior plastics on the steering wheel there appears to be soem stains of some sort, what can I use to remove those? Cheers

How you've described it is how I felt doing it so that's good and I didn't pull up with a sore back so that's encouraging, that said it was very low weight which I always do when starting something new.