Dan_J

i've bent those rectangle cusco style braces by hand before, cheap steel braces will work well long as its tubular/ braced. my n*power brace works, i can tell the difference with out it ( ceffy ) although the bracket where the billet pipe bolts on has lil bit of flex also dont see why every one thinks they need a brace just because they have more power then factory? it stiffens up the front chassis for better cornering...

i quite like that drivers side intrusion bar, keep the progress up

10 AN turbo oil drain fitting from kando - $40 ------ $50 posted Aus wide , awhile back bought the wrong one so got this laying around. suit high mounted turbo or similar with stock oil drain bolt / hypergear. from the thread start to end its 36cm, 32cm not including the thread on the nut thats crimped onto the braided line you need to get an adapter to bolt onto the block to 10an look like this but longer and no barb ( do have one to suit if needed tho)

nice, was wondering about rhs rails. figured if anything just make it look stock and hide, but now i know keep the progress coming, would be up to the best torana in aus once done

cool build so your engineer will pass the RHS rails or is that more of a hidden venture ?

thats pretty light for a r32, must have been fairly stripped? the front suspension set up doesn't help though

VQ30 is also 200kg

so adding other components to calibrate it cant be done? shall bin it then..

also sr20 is 200kg n rb is 300

try lock tight on the arm threads and bolts, have had mine rattle slightly loose from vibrations n such

am using a 'resistor wheel' from jay car which is just a knob on a dial that alternates to different resistance, also have hard wired resistors in to see if there was a difference . using a 2 pin sensor although resistors are only connected to one wire obviously the gauge is way off as the sensor that it came with is only a probe, not an actual bolt in water sensor so matching up a sensor to work with no changes to the circuit wont do it. have tired a few sensors from ecu coolant to normal 2 pin aftermarket sensor and the temps are still getting stuck within a band my wiring is pretty simple : sensor + -> resistor in series -> wire to gauge is this one for the guru's or cant it be done?

also have r32 center console in good nic for 40 am after a nistune to suit rb20 or swaps for ceffy parts etc bump

bind 'might' be from uneven castor or loose bolts on arms, other then too much lock. posting for updates

bit stumped so figured i'd post a thread i've got a gauge that doesn't match up to a sensor/s, its over reading, i've wired resistors in series( if i wire in parallel temps go higher which is not what i need) on the sensor wire which does change the temp down as its over reading. my problem is that when temps go hot to cold the temp display is kind of stuck and will only change with in 10-20 degree or so when in reality it should be reading much higher even though that cold base temps are spot on. do i need some other components wired in other than resistors? any clues ? thanks

i've seen cradle bushes in such bad condition that you could spin the center bit and rip it out by hand try alloy cradle raiser bushes from gk tech

topic has gone somewhat off topic as of late. did a search and found this http://www.heraldsun.com.au/leader/west/melbourne-residents-fed-up-with-hoons-in-their-streets/story-fngnvmj7-1226632009788 said biltz is ment to end august ^ as car enthusiasts are considered as hoons it doesn't paint a good picture

^ double check the top hat nuts, with out lock tight they tend to slowly come loose

S14/R33 ones are 290mm the issue here is the rods on the rack not the caster, people even run 10degress of caster ( say 6 more then "center" ...) rack ends might be from another car or lock spacer, so too long and of course i'd assume that the rod ends are adjusted all the way, make sure the rubber boot isn't hiding some more thread on it i think cefiro rack ends are m14 and are the same length as the s13 with is shorter so if all else fails give that a go

pics of the back of your subframe? you have: A) s14/r33 subframe B) gtr subframe

i'll assume that when using said rod ends you'll need shorter rack ends to suit, that should fix the toe in issues

chromoly arms via GK Tech http://www.gktech.com/index.php/v3-suspension-arm-package.html?utm_source=Customers&utm_campaign=265957cc10-Our_very_first_newsletter6_16_2013&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_753d5e4b2a-265957cc10-10257697

it 'may' have an adjuster to the cable where the drive shaft is. thats where mine was when the cefiro was auto with handbrake foot pedal

is this because rb25's basically have next to no lag anyway ? i've made my rb20 500rpms more responsive due to shorter piping, maybe such things dont apply to the humble 25........

i used to get a continuous creaking/clicking while transitioning, rear strut brace fixed that

it will hit full boost earlier, at the very least 500rpms sooner if not 750-1000rpms. no clue of how badly it will heat soak.......