t_revz

knocking noise will be springs in the new clutch compressing/expanding when loading up. mine does it once in a while if revs get too low. enough fluid in power steering resevoir?

how were the exhaust temps pushing it that much Stao?

found a price on another bellhousing yet new or 2nd hand?

i dont have the same model alternator as you but see if the thin wire to back of alternator has ignition 12v to it. if not there could be a prob with the excitation circuit depending on how that model works. you already he done alternator and doesnt sound like battery problem. if there is no power at back of alternator on the thin wire connect multimeter to battery of alternator circuit and quickly touch alternator + to thin wire terminal and see if it springs to life.

lukey turbo muffler with good cat and i would guess around 85 as it wasnt loud unless slamming back gears when slowing down. no where near others. had the car inspected once by a cop on the gold coast who was determined to get me for something and they didnt say anything about it

oval shaped are meant to be quieter than cannons. ive had 3inch in/out on with only cat until recently and its quiet

his doesnt use oil though...mine was excessive on occasions

search "alternator" in DIY section and replacement step by step. pics arent working for me cos my computer is playing up but im sure its ok. pm me if you have any questions

i know what you mean Troy, when i drove from perth to gold coast mine used a bit of oil and i tested to find 125 on 1-5 and 6 was 120.was making 350rwhp at 16 psi. sounded low but even so kept driving. eventually opened it up and found 5 pistons had broken ringlands exactly the same size piece broken and number 6 had slightly picked up. apart from it using a bit of oil i always thought i had a rebuilt engine with low compression

^^ turbo housing police!! haha i love it

must have different style alternators that require different inputs. good job anyway. paul has saved the day

my forged JE pistons are identical to this

i would be checking the fuses and lins in panel under bonnet are ok. get your head behind fuse panel in cab and see if there is a terminal strip broken between fuses

glad you sorted it but when did the fuses get removed? serviced lately or you raped them for something else?

im guessing the cut is related.. did turning on headlights etc delay the cut? if so it must be related. the wire for the warning light works different on each regulator. sometimes power from cab and the power made by alternator cancels itself out to turn off light.. it was just an idea as paul said it could be fuse related. i dont wanna tell you dodgy stuff to try but i would be trying all sorts of wiring combos if i was sure it was wiring drama as i would be desparate haha. check your mates car that you borrowed alternator from and see what is at the plug...actually a light bulb just lit up. not sure if it effects skylines but sometimes if warning light is wrong wattage can cause a drama...havent fitted new globes recently??

he said intake manifold not exhaust. you shouldnt have re-read haha. the bolts for the collector to manifold can be gained between each tube for the inner ones. if you undo the outer ones first it can kinda be kicked over a bit if you need a different angle at the bolts. but maybe try to pin point the leak a little further first

OUCH i would be so dirty. ive just got images running through my head of this guy with his arm reaching through this big ass hole saying its gonna cost more than quoted cos its such a nightmare job.

^^ +1 battery dying usually consists of it dropping a cell and will only retain 10 volts instead of 12 but once its started alternator will cover it. battery light doesnt usually come on if its a dud battery apart from taking a couple extra seconds to go off sometimes on start up. check fuses if havent already

wish my car was back together so i could test... just wondering if a blown fuse could cause this then you would likely see a power loss to the plug in the alternator. you said earlier you had batt voltage there but on both terminals or only 1? maybe if only 1 then there is a fuse somewhere or open circuit wire...

a good fuel system is a step in the right direction, as for cooling i never used to get more than couple degrees warmer when giving it some even around the track except when it dropped its coolant out the tell-tale hole when it was parked once. but up to you if you want more piece of mind. if it was 1and6 or 3and4 maybe 1and5 prob nothing in it.

changing alternator it isnt hard if you have some tools but a 20 dollar multimeter might save you some another alternator.

not for the last 30 yrs or so. internal ftw very interested about a blown fuse causing this. would love feedback if thats the cause

im sure a gtt would have a 70-85 amp alternator. HID,park lights,indicators and engine management would only be about 20-30. otherwise everyone would have the same problem...

invest in a cheap multimeter. you cant diagnose without it

realise this is a bandaid solution to keep you going for a bit longer til its sorted and it will still possibly cut out. something still sounds fishy...what about using jumper leads from alternator to another battery prefereably not conected in a car incase it blows up your mates car haha. this will eliminate without a doubt the alternator and batt are well connected. if it still over charges i would say either look at taking it to a sparky to have a look or pull the alternator off and take it to a auto sparky shop and get em to run it up on the test bench and see what its doing. sorry i cant be more helpful. maybe there is an Sau auto sparky in your area who works for beer...