t_revz

dont know on yours but my 33 has a brown relay module near the wipers. contacts in that could be stuck together...

not sure on yours but on my 33 gtst indicator wires go through a rubber grommet near wiper motor and straight to the light. only the 2 wires running through there, has it been picked up by the wheel and chewed up? yes a wire from front to side is ok if you cant find the original problem

my 33 gtst is getting a full rebuild slowly by myself. not sure if this will work but im gonna try for the times im on street tyres and someone wants to have a go. toggle switch powers a proximity switch mounted on top of tranny and detects gear lever when in first. this opens a solinoid between intake and wastegate via bleed valve and i can set a low boost value for take off. change out of first and solinoid closes and boost controller set to usually 20psi amd away we go. i think its good in theory and if it doesnt work then i rip it out but surely it can be adjusted and can pull some good starts. maybe even powerfc launch control and this low boost fuction may work well. cant wait to try

sorry mate got a virus or something and wouldnt let me pm back. 14.5 is ok. you dont need to stress too much about earths on light harnesses. bad earth will lower voltage to light therefore blow less often. but its impotant on engines etc for good starting/charging and keeping gremlins at bay. with all that said it sounds like you have correct voltage so is there anything else like you have a killer stereo that makes the lights flash and cause them to wear out faster. could be overcharging on occasion but usually once they overcharge they dont often go back the other way. the stock wiring hasnt been modified either. if there is a relay fitted to light circuit to run something else there is a small possibility when the relay turns off it created a spike in the voltage momentarily. this would only happen if the the light circuit is powering the relay. IE running a relay off high beam wiring to power up spot lights. if there is some sort of crazy mod its as simple as using a diode protected relay which is easy. all i can think of this time of night and after a few bourbons. will get back to ya if i think of more. happy hunting

looks good mate. even better once you do the pulleys. thanks for the reply

i asked nissan one day when i went in for something else. girl said $102 x 24. but i saw a set on ebay for 700 month ago

3 inch dump pipe high flow cat and lukey turbo muffler 3in 3 out. no police attention but loud enough and seems to flow enough

great. have wanted one for ages and now the engine is in bits i wanna buy one. thanks for the reply

put a multimeter across the alternator and give it a rev. 13.8-14.4 is perfect. a little either way is ok but 14.8 should be max. if voltage is slightly too high compare to voltage as battery at same rpm. if its significantly lower than its high volt drop in cables between battery and alternator.

mine has lasted 6 years with 750w rms and 300w rms amps without any dramas. including a drive from perth to gold coast and back with volume on max for complete trip and only stopping for fuel...

anyone tried these and know if the look good for a while or does a new timing belt make it look dirty/dark and hard to see through?

how much bigger do you want and why? you can get a sparkie to change the windings internally and output increases but output drops at idle. did this to my commodore years ago and went from 85 to 150 amp output but the lights flashed at idle when the stereo was on. from memory its a decent size alternator on 33`s already

all hobbies cost money. even collecting stamps haha.

i went from stock to 740cc nismo and no fuel econ differences...45% duty cycle at 350rwhp

sounds like when the globes smashed it shorted and the load burnt out the gearbox switch before the fuse blew. unlucky

never disconnect a battery on a running engine to test output. alternator cant sense voltage and therefore goes to max and overcharges and destroys electronics such as radios etc.

unlikely but if you say its coming from where the ecm is then turn off the fan and try again. fan is behind the glove box and might be scratching when its cold perhaps

my 33 has the relay secured on the fuse/fusible link panel in the boot on the right hand side. only one relay there cant miss it

hey mate still struggling with it hey?? diagram is definetely the right one? as usually there arent relays for them circuits.. if there is such a thing it wouldnt be hidden. if its not with the others i doubt it exists. cant say i have checked on my 33 as its stripped at the moment but if they switch negative on park/dash and tail circuits then if the negative from any of them lights to the stalk has rubbed through somewhere then they will all come on so not neccesarily a relay. look around areas you may have moved recently. look around all the easy to get to lights and wiring through firewall and into boot etc. if you have a multimeter measure the voltage at any of the lights and hopefully the supply is steady. then get someone to watch the voltage while you shake the harness and bang things around a bit. when you find a section that makes the voltage change your gettin closer. goodluck

rev switch on 33gtst is the most forward switch on drivers side. never had to do it but heard you need to unbolt trans crossmember to get a little angle on trans to be able to get a spanner on it

no added lighting additions that could be at fault? lights hooked to cd player or anything like that

yeah mate what i meant was if you turn the switch off half way through its cycle and it doesnt continue to the bottom. but if i understand you now you mean when the switch is left on and the motor doesnt finish its cycle? could be the brown box.lots bigger than my garage remote haha. just need to borrow someones now. goodluck

not sure on 34`s but its very unlikely to have a relay running park lights as its such a small load. do the lights go out when stalk was disconnected?

it should be cycling crazy during idle and cruising and only sit still during heavy acceration and decelaration.

my rb25det used 1 litre per 2000km ish due to blowby before rebuild but coudnt notice any smoke from in the cab. followed it one day and blew everytime on boost. maybe yours is smoking worse than you think. but a litre in a week is very excessive