t_revz

if the larger white wire in the alternator plug has ignition supply then the alternator will be excited. pull the small plug off and see if the current draw drops. if not then must be alternator but if it drops then there must be a ignition relay or something stuck and sending power there with key off

my veilside front bar used to be flimsy and had to repair regularly. made 2 simple 90 degree brackets that picked up near bottom of radiator and used bolts holding bumper together and havent had more than very minor cracks since

wont start as in hydraulic locked or turns over and wont fire

couple guys from work have just been through this at work recently on a grader with bad samples after a service. they set the multimeter to volts and measured between engine block and other probe suspended in coolant but i cant remember how much voltage is acceptable. will try get back to you tomorrow with a figure but i guess if you test and have 0.0 volts then its sweet

if you wiggle the switch does it make the hig beams flash. i would be leaning towards a relay personally. find the relay and swap it with another one thats the same and and see if it fixes it

had the drivers window stop winding for a bit unless holding the button down and hitting the door skin. so i stripped the controller and found a dry solder joint and was all good. nothing much changed for a while until i was on strike for 10 weeks. i went to Bunbury to see a mate then we both went to Collie. we came up to Roelands hill which is quite steep and couple k`s long. we came up to the overtaking lane and started to line up with each other. my mate had an Xr8 ute with a few mods. we smashed the pedals to the floor and he was just pulling away, but about 100m up the hill my car lost all power and was hesitating badly. i hit the clutch and the engine stalled. turned the key while still rolling and it fired back up. off i went again and stalled again. i got it going and took it very easy. found on the way home if i tried to accelerate much it misfired badly so i sat around 100 to get me home. by the time i got there it was running on 5 cylinders. i pulled the plugs out and this is what i found... i rang up Xspeed and booked it in for an 040 fuel pump and if that didnt fix it to diagnose for me

went to the spoiler shop which used to be near Xspeed to get a body kit as the stock front bar was scratched up. i ordered a veilside front bar and 400r side skirts for 800 unpainted. also got an Autometer air/fuel mixture gauge. hooked the gauge up and it kind of worked on start up then turned off. i checked all the wiring was ok the put it in my dads fairmont and it worked perfectly. put it back in mine and ordered a new 02 sensor. picked up a universal sensor for about $40 and put it in. the guage worked correctly and fixed up the poor fuel consumption which had recently started. went from 350km a tank back to 500. ripped the front bar off and had to cut the side skirts off as they were so heavily glued on. cleaned it all up then got bodykit sprayed and fitted up. photos of the car are poor quality as they were taken from a phone

how fast is it clicking. it could be fuel pump relay clicking. but if its a fast clicking its prob not a good sign. is there a label anywhere informing you what the relay is for?

send me a pic if you need something in particular translated and i will get the missus onto it if i cant do it. i know what she will say if i ask for a complete manual translated

r33 has 2 piece cover not sure with yours. to get the cas back in the exact spot you will have to reset timing when your done. think the tensioner pully may be hidden by the lower cover but not sure. this is the car with ticking noises yeah? wasnt lifters? changing to different oil didnt stop it?

it may not be tune related, could be fuel or ignition dramas for example but if it hasnt been on the dyno since you bought it, then it would be a good idea to make sure the last owner didnt have it running on the edge

you dont need a re-map from those mods as they are just supporting mods and wont really affect how the ecu works. things like air flow sensor, injectors, higher boost from turbo, adjustments to fuel pressure etc so its worthwhile doing a few mods at once to cut down on visits to the tuner

have heard similar to this in my old commodore when the water drain got blocked up with felt and dirt and water was building up in the evaporator box. but if you havent used the air con lately will count this out

unless your after something in particular you dont really need to ask for anything other than a tune as they should know what they are doing. should be done after doing mods and it should make use of them additions to give you some gains whist still being safe on the engine.

does the harmonic balancer have threads in it so bolts can be wound in and wind it off the crank?

so the 100k was up i booked it in at Xspeed for timing belt, v-belts to be changed and a HYBRID intercooler kit. intercooler supplied and fitted was $1450 timing belt $80 plus $210 fitting. alt and p/s belts $75 took the car back to Adrenaline and was up to 266.9 rwhp and held same figures everytime consistently instead of dying off like before due to crap stock intercooler doc_6.pdf

Few months later i wanted a bit more so i pulled the filter assembly out and took the AFM to work to make up a pod adaptor. found some spare pipe at work and plate and welded it together then oxy`ed out the hole. dropped it back in and seemed better but may have just been the noise. picked up a Turbosmart manual bleed valve and took it to Adrenaline to set the boost as the boost guage in car wasnt the best. manged 236.4 rwhp after turning it up a few pound. dyno_3.pdf

Took the car to Collie and entered the 1/8th mile drags. cant remember my times anymore but in the 9`s from memory. went well enough the beat a few V8s mostly from a better start but couldnt keep up with a stockish Rex that was there. anyway about half track on the 5th or 6th run the power backed off and i realised immediately the clutch had gone... i turned off at the end of the strip and putted it home in 3rd. I got talking with a guy from work the next day who is big into old Falcons and told him what happened and he told me his brother in law had a modified GTR and said Xspeed were the best place to go. i Gave em a call and told them how i used the car and they recommended a cushioned ceramic clutch and exchange flywheel by Xtreme. Jacked the car up in the garage. ripped the box out and took flywheel up to Perth. cost me 600 for the exchange. slammed the box back in when i got home but the input shaft must have picked up the spigot bush on the way in and clutch wasnt releasing all the way and was squealing a little. dropped it out again and sanded the bush a little as i couldnt get one straight away. put it back in and was all good. was heavier but good for a daily driven car.

check DIY section for tacho repairs and if you have some tools you could have a go

hey guys, thought now i had the scanner up and running i could put this up. while my car is under construction and not as hot as many others on here i have quite a few dyno results from when i started upgrades so might be a useful threads for people starting out. unfortunately i have a bad habit of taking photos after i finish something and not taking beforehand so bear with me. bought this car between chrissie and new year at the end of 2003 after realising the sump in my berlina had a big dent and maybe the pickup was broken. i was always interested in skylines and bought a few magazines and decided 33`s had the look i wanted and set out. within a week i had my new car. a 1993 s1 gtst with 70k kilometres on it. it stayed stock 4 a bit and after realising all mags were advertising exhaust for around 2500 i got a quote for 3 inch cat back mild steel with stainless lukey muffler for 750 so i got it. wasnt loud at all. ran this for a bit until the West Coast Nationals were on in Collie. ran it up on the dyno stock apart from exhaust and i pulled out the panel filter for the dyno run. _Untitled_.pdf

yeah duncan both those guys recently have had stageas too!! and they both had a missing fuse not a blown one. i really need to pull a couple alternators down and see how they work to be more specific for testing. i guess from the sounds of it both wires in plug prob will be ignition. the larger white wire are meant to be ignition to excite it and other wire is to do with the regulation side of things i think. i guess check fuses and see if both have power and let me know

if the alrm makes the lights work then i would be looking for a fuse or link somewhere. check em all. all the dash lights and switch lights will be fused with park lights. headlights will be another circuit. hopefully its simple but i have fixed a few harnesses before where the mice or rats have been gnawing on the insulation. that cant be tasty but they love it. if so the wires could have blown the fuse from that. make sure the fuses for these circuits have power at the fuse also dont just check the fuses

what is the charge rate? 14.7ish should be the upper limit.to testing batt cables for overcharging is easy. if the voltage at alternator is more than say half a volt higher than battery then you have a cable fault. ie 16 at alt and 15.5 at battery wont be cables. if its cables you will see 16 at alternator and 12 or less at batt. dropped cell doesnt necessarily mean it will overcharge. the regulator might be able to be pulled out without removing alternator if its such a big deal. its the black rectangular box on the back of the alternator. just undo the 2 screws and gently pull it out.if the wires to the brushes which are part of the regulator are rubbing on the housing then it can overcharge but it should have a piece of mica in a slot to prevent that.

good service before selling it? i wish all previous owners of my cars were like this. i would be saving my money for a good service on your next car when you get it

left mine for 7 months while i was living in Japan. one big tip i would recommend is to put mouse baits around as the car stunk when i got back and there was crap under the back seat. i guess in the boot or under the car would do the trick!!