t_revz

did u end up picking up another bellhousing after the mishap couple months ago? or did the hole get patched?

i got one from ebay for rb20,25,26 for under 20

sounds like its charging if its 13.4 which i guess was at idle. you sure the noise is from the alternator? 450-500 cca batteries are a bit overkill. something you would expect on a falcon or commodore that doesnt have reduction drive starter and couple more litres to push over. need to check alternator voltage with lights on etc to see if it dies in the ass. maybe something was left on like interior light... there would be another alternator you could use most likely but plugs would need to be changed. get new bearings and brushes fitted as the other parts either dont move or wear out. the sound prob wont be brushes but sometimes when a diode dies and not running on a phase can cause funny sounds.

undet the rubber boot seal

maybe the hicas is draining power also. maybe pull the fuse for a couple days and see if it drops again

might be an early warning sign the brushes are out of length or are jamming up and not moving down as they wear. other than that it must be heat causing something i guess. once the voltage drops different RPM doesnt make it change back up??

meant to be a switch on the mechanism for "valet" mode so can only be opened with the key. not sure what model cars have this though

http://www.gtrpwr.com/showthread.php?p=12050 this was the D&A i used but the first step of breaking em part didnt work for me(actually cracked2). instead of hitting em on the head i held them in my hand and squared them up to an anvil and gave them a quick slap and they popped straight up. then instead of mixing all the parts up in a basket i used a fishing tackle box and filled that up once they were stripped.

have seen aftermarket sets before for 700ish but cant remember where... dont bother with nissan. but its not that hard to strip and clean them. all of mine had sludge within that just needed cleaning out. let me know if you want a D&A and i will dig up the one i used

latest Perth street car mag has a trans am going from 300rwhp-ish up too 512rwhp with same setup. will try post pics later

yeah i bought autometer gauge years ago and it turned out to be quite annoying because the standard sensor has such a varying output. changes from rich/lean/rich every couple seconds so you have a gauge flickering back and forth all the time except when hard on the throttle or decelerating. a wideband o2 sensor is meant to be the cure. search wideband and should put you in the right direction but you can pick up the o2 wire for the time being but it wont really show you what. theres prob vids on youtube of both types

my money is on the alternator belt. easy enough to nip up yourself. that also runs the water pump so dont want that slipping and breaking. just inspect it isnt polished and cracked then do it up a bit

ive heard of the switches coming undone half a turn or so causing them not to work unless holding the lever over to the side like you. but thought you had to undo the trans crossmember to get a bit of space to get it out?

you need a boost gauge hooked up to see exactly what pressure its running. dont rely on gauge on dash. expensive isnt always better. ngk bcpr6es from memory and only couple bucks each

^^ +1 sounds like it. boost controller might not be getting full air presure thus raising boost...

just the passenger lock open/close? perhaps actuator/whatever is in drivers door that activates passenger lock when drivers side is moved is out of adjustment. maybe central locking/alarm kit?

in theory you shouldnt have blown any fuses as power has gone between battery terminals and not up the harness. but it depends where on the positive it was touching as the damage should be between battery post and point of contact. or could be on the earth side of things. unlikely but the regulator in the alternator could have copped a spike... start by making sure battery voltage is same at battery and alternator terminals.

whats the starter motor symptoms? surely its easier to pull gearbox out and remove flywheel...

i wouldnt change regulator if it hasnt failed. just unsolder the brushes out of it and replace. is a bearing at either end of the rotor that can be done.be careful removing bearings and try not to lever off other parts etc and use a press if possible. make sure the slipring hasnt got a big groove where the brushes run. but really an alternator nearly never would leave you stranded on an overpass. you will almost always get warning light, nasty noises or electronics will start cutting in and out before you get stuck.

10-12 psi is the norm.but have heard some running 14psi. i used a turbosmart manual bleed valve and it was 12psi dropping to 9 psi at redline.

try turn off the climate control next time as i have heard of air con fans rubbing on the housing when cornering hard etc prob due to worn bushes in the motor

check paulr33`s FAQ and it might be in there. i think he has said b4 around 100 is where powerfc brings on the warning light unless its been changed by the tuner. ideally below 30. mine doesnt go above 20 unless i cant get 98

starters dont usually drain power unless stuck in which you would hear. if you havent had any starter grief then i highly doubt its going to solve your problem

the large cable on the back of the alternator is for charging the battery but alternator has a small plug with 2 wires to turn alternator on/off and for warning light. i would try disconnecting plug and seeing if it stops current draw before getting another alternator. i would have thought ignition supply to alternator would have come from fuse panel but the cables are quite large so prob a relay or fusible link

its definetely not leaking coolant from the heater core and thats why it was bypassed? coolant dripping out the air con drain? i know the spray your talking about but i thought its meant to be put through the inlet and filter? there is a DIY about getting the heater out without pulling the dash from memory. might be able to have a look in there and see whats causing it or lay some plastic through the car and give it a quick hose out if its bad