t_revz

must be popular with the ladies. wonder how he coped with the rolling blackouts.

^^ as above mix per instructions. if you need to reinforce, i layed some aluminium strips down and fibreglassed over on problem areas on a low hanging front bar i repaired once and it stopped cracking after that

sounds like its only a matter of time before your car has a sleep over for 28 days...

im only guessing/remembering but i thought there was a temp sensor for gauge, one for ecm, and a switch. maybe not...its late

how would you know how many kms to go?

yeah mate i use it all the time. i work in mining and smear it across the terminals in canon plugs, ecm plugs etc. seems to work well at keeping moisture at bay, and a little bit goes quite a long way. havent used it for anything else though

please replace timing belt every 100 000kms

haha this thread isnt what i was thinking. if it were in the wasteland it would be completely different

yeah i separated too as it looked like too much fiddling. one bolt top middle and another high one on passenger side but only the two difficult ones from memory. undo trans crossmember down a bit to get some more angle. socket set with couple extensions.

calibration horse.

i had this a few years ago(not with drilling). experienced in open cut and thought about u/g but thought for only $2 difference why go down.they preferred i stuck with open cut anyway. from what ive seen it looks like a very phsyical job and you would sleep well at night. what sites are available?

i used GTS behind ford. was 300 for acid bath,bore/hone and deck block. 250 for crank snout sleeve mod, plus ordered parts through them.admittedly i got it cheaper as we sub-contract them for the big jobs. they didnt seem to have done that many skylines but Josh behind the counter is more than willing to have a good chin wag and price up all options. maybe just drop in for a chat.

mum in law who is 8kms from volcano has said its been thumping away lately but people arent talking as much about it now as everyone else is so much worse off. i still would be shitting bricks having that thing in the back yard

http://www.taste.com.au/recipes/23687/chicken+schnitzel how hard can it be haha

i still stick by my comment, not saying your wrong about the battery as wierd things happen and we are only diagnosing over the interwebz but i think if there isnt any shortage of power starting the car, then i would imagine indicators should be piece of cake. dead cell batteries usually have a standby voltage around 10v so will start but sound sad.

agree with most but not this bit, if the engine starts ok and the problem is only intermittent i wouldnt think battery. the alterator should be able to supply those sorts of power levels without voltage dips due to indicators or lights even if the battery was stuffed. i would be turning a/c fan on max, all lights on etc then check the voltage at battery and alternator. should be 13.5- 14.4ish and less than 0.5v difference. and yes do NOT whack the alternator.

should have just taken the belt off the compressor and left it at that if your planning on re-fit. the money you save on fuel economy will be blown apart when you pay someone to re-gas your aircon.

i only used my timer for a month then used to put it in top gear last minute or two as i approached destination. but good point phil its been so long id forgotten it doesnt work while on timer

what about buzzer to warn lights are on with ignition off?

theres a hard line that finishes near clutch booster on rh side, short hose then across firewall and to canister, then one goes from canister up lh side into plastic fitting in chassis rail. think either nothing on other side or short hose.

pretty sure the line that goes into the chassis rail on lh side stops there. think its just a fitting with nothing on the other side and it just breathes into the rail

hellaflush...offset is everything

i can just see a bunch of imports doin 20km/h down the freeway with fog coming out the windows going from one maccas to the next

pretty sure there was a thread about this maybe 6 or so months ago. think if i remember correctly most people agreed it was to do with incorrect torquing. cant remember other ideas suggested...

label only says 115 db but two of these go hard. and its a unique note