t_revz

creating 3 threads about the same fault in 1 day isnt going to get you an answer quicker...it much easier for us to help if all the info is in the same spot

132 for half day is cheap

Welcome, good job on the 34. much different(better) than an Excel. enjoy but be careful!

if your still on 95 octane then stop boosting, if your back on 98 and still playing up i would pull out the plugs and check

try and keep it off boost until the 95 is gone then fill up with 98 and see if its back to normal.

pay the extra few cents for 98 octane when filling up

hey Terry ill put a pic up of the horns on mine over the weekend. rang Xspeed years ago to see if they had finished the intercooler install and all i could hear was my horns blaring away. the bloke on the phone explained when the guys saw the size of the horns they decided first thing to test when they finished was the horn volume. im always too embarrased to use em. they kinda have a stock look but you could blow up a senior citizens pacemaker with em. hydraulic suspension that doesnt weigh a tonne, cost too much or negatively affect handling so those big speed bumps are a thing of the past and make it easier to get a jack under the car and every car should have sun visors like my Vitara(others prob do and im just not up with the times)but they have a plastic insert which slides out to make them longer. can reach right to rear view mirror and full length of drivers and passengers windows so there isnt that pesky gap where the sun sneaks through cloaking device haha

amazes me when people spend this much money on something and cant even keep the receipt in a safe place.

put some badges from a corolla or astra on it then you'll be able to get insurance cheaper

13.8 - 14.4 is ideal. little under is ok but 12.6 is too low. is that the best you get out of it or does it get better with rpm? were any accesories being run like lights or stereo? when you stop the engine and just have the key on what is the voltage? need to ensure that gauge is reading correctly first then go from there.

you mean cowl? fan cowling? as in the guard around the fan that helps direct the airflow?

simon got a 6 boost to cut down on mucking around as the compressor was so big. so it wasnt that cheap for him. he said it could be done on stock manifold but might have to trial different spacers etc. was 3076 on 6 boost or stock? and like Hektik said he is running E42.5

hold globe up to light and flick it. can usually see the filament shake around if you dont have a multimeter to test.

good to hear its ok now, next time you change em id run them back at .8 as i would imagine it was more the silicone that fixed it. if increasing the gap brings the prob back then likely a coil but you could keep running .7 til it gets worse or you up the boost and have to sort it out. Trev

hey mate the BCPR6ES .8mm gap plugs you have are ok. i run them and countless others. if they are missing at .8 then the problem likely isnt them. but maybe the coils are weak and the previous plugs were gapped lower therefore didnt missfire. you could try gap to .7 and see if its better. the difference between .8 - .7 at 15psi is probably minimal but if it fixes your miss then you could try it out 4 a while. have you read the DIY about insulating the coilpacks to prevent missfire? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/119403-how-to-fix-missfire-problem/page__hl__coilpack

^^ +1 while that looks messy its prob been done up by an auto sparky for the previous owner. just secure it all up nicely once the battery etc is secured.

thought that was normal? just to keep little bit of fresh air coming in...if not we have the same problem haha

holy crap im gonna start up an air con business.

i would take it back. should be 5 degrees give or take at the vents. if its average whilst driving where the condensor is getting good airflow across it then maybe the gas level is over or undercharged. get them to put some gauges on it and put a good thermometer down the vent. should be in general maintenance btw

what speakers are you thinking of for 200 troy out of curiosity? thought even decent 2-ways would be a lot more than that. need some half decent cheapies for camp trailer

most dont talk bar in a/c. but if its 45psi when car isnt running then prob has a leak and could be cutting out when compressor goes faster as it goes into a vacumn. if its 45 psi while running then not a lack of gas and prob tx.

i guess the answer to this could vary extremely from person to person. i run 6" R type alpine splits in the front off a good amp and i love em. in the rear i run 6 speakers now but i used to run a pair of good 4 1/2" splits and was good. i like top end quality in the front and mid range is adequate in the rear. is your current amp 2 or 4 channel? i tried 3 different type of lanzar subs and some soundstream subs before switching to my current R type subs. none of the subs lasted for a few different reasons but the current subs are indestructible and pack a punch. a good box is a good investment and can make an average sub 100% better. i dont really know costs as i havent had to buy anything 4 a while but think the R type splits are around 250-280. which would leave 500 to cover sub/box and an amp(2or 4 channel depending on what you already have) i know my local cash convertors never has less than 20 different amps and half dozen subs and i think hey have warranty if you wanted to go down that path.but they might only give warranty if you paid someone to fit it... Trev

well something is draining the battery. if you have a multimeter you should be able to use the 10A scale. pull a battery lead off and connect one lead to batt terminal and the other to the cable. then you pull fuses until the current on the meter drops right down and you should have an idea from fuse description where the drain lies...could be anything from alarm system to shorted diode inside the alternator.