t_revz

could be the charge rate the alternator is supplying. something draining the battery when parked up. volt drop through bad connections or inadequate cabling. does it only fail to start after being parked up overnight or wont start after running? check charge rate with a multimeter if you have one.

just re-read your original post. could still be the tx valve but another thing, on the left of the steering wheel there is what looks like a vent in the dash, pretty sure ive heard that tube/sensor being disconnected will make temp increase.just make sure its not loose etc. if someone could chuck some gauges on and have a look while its playing up then they would know if its the tx. not sure on costs as i only do mining work but prob 50-100 for valve 1-2 hours changing valve and another hour or so to vac,charge and test. maybe just get someone better than the last person to put gauges on and diagnose, preferably when faulting

unless your using lots of electrical power then a bigger alternator prob wont help. could be a few things... something draining the battery and the charger is compensating. will it start if you use the charger then dont try to start it for a while? the battery may be at fault and the charger is keeping a surface charge in. what is the charge rate? should be 13.8- 14.4 ideally. but as log as its above 13 it should be enough if all other components are in good working order. i would be checking voltage 30 mins after its been running then check again in the morning and see how far it has dropped. if it has still 12+ in the morning check voltage while cranking and it shouldnt go below 10v

have to read through it again. thought you had that turbo on when you blew the box up

you could try disconnecting front and rears separately and see which end creates the fault. i can find specs for my old soundstream amp online so have a go and maybe if you find a manual it will say something about making a noise to indicate a short or overtemp etc.

simonr32 swapped rb20 for a 25 and transferred parts across and ended up with 120ish more rwhp.

^^same. middle of the gauge for me= 70-90c. 2/3 for me is about 105

paulr33 has a comprehensive FAQ about powerfc on his profile. might find the answer there

id set it up so you can see the lights reflect off a wall then start wiggling harnesses, tapping relays, fuse box and light switch and see if you can narrow it down. only does it driving or all the time?

so the low pressure gauge (blue) was reading high? how high? it could be that the compressor hasnt kicked in therefore its just resting pressure. a blockage anywhere will make the blue side go down. stuck open tx will prob go down to 40-60 psi. could also be that the clutch in the compressor is slipping. this will be seen as low side high and high side low and usually slips more with rpm. what was happening on the red side. should have vacced down for half hour but too late now... actually you didnt fit the compressor backwards did you? S is for low side hose and D is for high side.

i dont think a cap is the solution to this. his amp is only 300w. ive ran my 750w + 700w amps at full stick for years, and while the lights dipped it still packed a punch. i think a cap is overkill. decent power cables and the amp will see enough power

sh!t my bad. dunno what i was thinking...

i was right into stezzas back in the day. followed some advice given to me and it turned out to be correct atleast in all my cars. by putting the sub facing backwards in the boot into the corner was better. by facing it away you get and echo off the surface its facing which made it louder. in the corner it has 2 sides to reflect off and was better again. aparently driving one into spare tyre well is meant to be better again. still sounds like you need a tune tho to get the most out of it. keep frequency to 80-90hz and adjust gain for volume. if gain is at max and still not loud enough then amp is too small or set up incorrect. dont turn frequency up to get more out of it as mid range noise can sound crap through a sub. dont turn bass settings on head unit right up. try to keep it fairly even across the eq and adjust amps to get correct volume then tweak eq later to suit the style of music you listen to. 300w amp shouldnt pull that much power from the battery so if you see big power drops then something is wrong for sure and check the connections bundybear mentioned. new sub should be quite punchy but little soft for the deep stuff. 10 hours should loosen it up. but it will require a little extra grunt to break it in. a good box is a worthy investment. get some marine ply from bunnings and knock one up if yours isnt strong enough, if it has any old screw holes then seal them up

depends on how much the block was decked and if the head was machined. what head gasket did you use?

5/8 internal i think.use a ruler etc and try to measure. 5/8 = 16mm. coventrys etc prob sell it by the metre. or maybe try a radiator store etc.

ive seen lots of people in the mining industry over the years have a/c tickets and not be experienced/good but in the automotive industry thats less common unless just getting ticket recently. therefore anywhere you go should be just as good. a re-gas is a simple exersize anyway. but if i didnt have the equipment or a ticket i would go to someone who advertises air con work as a main job and not a side project

as moodles said it will still be able to breathe. most cheap chargers you get from auto stores only supply 3-5 amps which shouldnt get it hot. try to keep the battery charged when sitting. a flat battery can deteriorate quickly if left unused.

just finished re-reading HPI 126. was like de-ja vu reading this 20 mins later on. even same examples... except for the brackets

had mine up to 119 on powerfc readout twice after the water pump leaked out the telltale hole and it was only half full. got it to a mates both times and fed water into it real slow. did another 50000km before rebuild due to damaged rings but head was ok. maybe i was just lucky but mine was well into the red so yours may be fine too

if its auto then could be nuetral switch. otherwise as already said. fuses, wire still on solenoid, swap starter relay with another.　or alarm/immobilizer?

things like power draw from stereo, dust, average engine speed, belt tension etc will change whether a brand new alternator does 40000k-250000k. if it dies on you its not the end of the world. there is usually warning signs and if you turn off non esentials then you should have sufficient time to get home or to a better location. if your worried you can get it serviced and depending on condition maybe 100-250

agreed^^^

put some mouse poison around. i came back from 7 months in japan to a stink box

new compressor would prob be 300-500 but you could get one on here for 50 or so from other SAU members. if its very low on gas then the pressure shouldnt be 300psi or 300psi higher than normal. maybe it had just been parked for a while and heatsoaked. i have a "hybrid" intercooler and there is about 10mm space between the original fan and cooler. you prob need to measure the gap and see what will fit. stock fan on r33 gtst is about 90mm at widest part and 60mm at bottom edge where its closest