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does that mean between 155 and 170 was only ecu? i th

does that mean between 155 and 170 was only ecu? i think you`ll find a stock rb25 with stock turbo and same boost FMIC etc will only be around 200ish

the plug in the alternator will have a wire for the warning light and to excite the alternator to charge. with the plug off the voltage will drop because its not actually charging and just reading battery voltage. i mostly work on heavy mining gear and my alternator hasnt had a drama so im not exactly sure how its wired up but i do remember seeing a slightly heavy white wire going through that plug plus another smaller wire, maybe unplug it without engine going and see if voltage at the terminals matches the batt voltage. my first reaction would be to say replace alternator but as you have done that already its unlikely. just one more thing is to make sure the multimeter your using is ok. compare charging rate on a known ok car compared to yours. if you have to use it in the meantime drive with headlighs etc on to help prevent cutting out

lazy fuel pump will cause detonation and will pop miss and break pistons all the way to redline but doesnt fit your symptoms.

batt cables are quite small and dont look big enough but they seem to work. when batteries are mounted in the boot its a fairly small cable travelling that distance but good reduction drive starter motor doesnt need much power...if you already have upgraded the earth and dont have any dramas then i wouldnt worry. i bumped all my cables up to help crank faster and for big stezza. i had to redo batt cables in my commondore back in the day as it had so many electrical gremlins.

doesnt matter on the type of wire as its only a signal and not power supply. if disconnecting the wire doesnt make the guage move try touching it to ground for a second and see if it moves but not more than for a second. if that doesnt make it move then the prob is wih the guage. if it makes it move then its with the sensor

did you have your multi meter on the right setting? the V with the dotted line. if you had 20v you woulda blown the ass out of your cd player etc by now. does it only do it when indicating in one direction or both?

check the voltage at the alternator compared to the voltage at battery. if the alternator doesnt have a good connection to battery it will overcharge. you would see this as 11-12v at battery while 15 at alternator as an example. measure between alternator + and battery + and this will tell you voltdrop from front to rear

GCG highflow is around 1700-1800. not sure bout hypergear. maybe get highflow and ecu and run on the limits of the AFM until you have the coin to get a Z32 and injectors as AFM will run out of legs before the injectors

so how`d you do it??

ME haha i wish

Yep crank collar for the early ones, definetely series 1 gtst and i think 1.5 is in the same boat!!

Crank collar!!

lifters wont make a whistling sound. maybe pull the intake off the turbo and see how much movement is in the shaft or if it makes ticking noises when spinning

My 33 was making around 266 with only Pod, Fmic and boost at 10psi. Last run before rebuild running simular mods to you was 335rwhp at 15 psi with Gcg High-flow and i had only 120psi compression across the board as all pistons were broken...As Trent said the tuner could be over cautious

im in!

need the delorian and doc brown to take you back 4 years and tell him what you think

fair enough you can get your hands on them cheap but when shopping for injectors dont shoot for the minimum size required. think 600 should be ok for 350-400 i think.

Hey mate, good job on the new car. try type a few keywords in the search area and have a look at what others are doing. once you have a few ideas run em past people in here for there recomendations but you wont get many responses with such a broad question as people tend not to help people who havent searched at all. this place stores a wealth of info you just gotta find it!! Goodluck!!

looking from back with clip to the top. Left- Yellow/Black Middle- Blue/Red Right Black/Blue

its not expensive. i just paid $85 for rod bolts to suit rb25 rods so wont be much different. well worth it

are you sure it has power steering as thats the characteristics of a non power steering car and excel`s are the poverty pack. static turning is a bitch but while its moving piece of cake. check your belts and see if there is a pump at all or power steering resevoir. if it was low power steering oil it would growl

wash it off to see how quick the green comes back but we both know if you wait for it to let go it will happen at the worst possible time...murphy`s law!!

check out Karls posts (tufrx3) and see if thats what your after and if he has any left

driveshaft/tailshaft to diff bolts? if so 62Nm - 6.3 Kg/m. if you mean axle to hub bolts what size bolt and i can reference from chart in manual