t_revz

behind the gear is a one way bearing within that housing that allows it to turn the engine over but free-wheel other way for when engine is going faster than starter. that could be stuffed if its mking that real horrible squeal/grind noise. however usually when the drive fails it wont turn your car over so if it still turns over it could be something else. take note of where everything goes if you pull it apart and shout out if you get stuck. if its the drive i would imagine it would be around $40-$60.

definetely an oil squirter. not sure how easy it would be to do with engine in place as its above the crank under the lip of the bore.

car is stripped down and engine rebuild in progress. i have the xtreme clutch i fitted 5 years ago and has done 100k and still looks ok but i cant remember what it looked like new not sure how much meat i have worn off it. anyone done one more recently and can remember. its an 8 or 9 puck hd series. from a glance it has about 3mm of material

could be turbo seals leaking oil straight into exhaust

hadnt recently put a lower octane fuel in it?

if you know your missing 1 volt try putting a multimeter between battery + and alternator + and this will tell you how much is lost in positive side of wiring and the rest of the 1volt is lost through negative cables. Agree with Glen about bumping up size of cables. Skyline battery cables were good when the cars were new but they are getting on. i have 4 gauge from negative to chassis and 4 gauge from positive to starter and 8 gauge starter to alternator. makes a noticable difference

if you take the main/big end caps off and it has spun a bearing you prob wont need to put pics up. except to show us the carnage

sorry but i find it unlikely about tail and dash lights running from same power supply as brake lights if thats what you meant. never seen it before and would give no visibilty as night if there was a problem on either circuit.

what the engineer told you was correct but can be described differently. during the time between firing the coil is energised, when it needs to fire the power to coil is momentarily cut which creates a large magnetic field which is transferred from primary(coil winding-ignition wiring) into the secondary(coil winding and through spark plug). if the coil isnt powered up long enough before firing due to very high rpm then the magnetism in the coil will be reduced and spark will be weaker. also low voltage will do the same even if it has time to become fully saturated/magnetised and as for spark plug gap im 99% its due to combustion chamber pressure. electricity cant travel through dense area as easily but i cant remember exactly why anymore if 1.1 works and doesnt miss should be ok but many or most people us slightly lower to ensure correct spark even if its not quite as big.

im far from being a guru on this topic but if its not too hard swap the actuator back and see if the noise was related to that or if coincidentily something has gone wrong at the same time.

chirp 2nd and rip a skid!! CLASSIC. lock the car up in gear on brakes to undo balancer bolt or put socket and bar on bolt and turn to start for a split second and let the engine crack the bolt loose. there are 2 threads in balancer. put 2 bolts through and tighten to get balancer off. i havent taken my cas bracket off when changing belt. cas sensor has a locator on inside of shaft that you need to line up when re-fitting. adjust timing

2. fuel filter blocked

have a look on your powerfc at the knock/detonation. mine never goes above 20 on 98 oct but when i have only been able to get 95 oct it has gone up to 60-80ish. think the light comes on at 100 or more from memory. make sure you have low numbers

did a comp test on my rb25det 5 years ago and got 120psi each although never missed a beat apart from burning a litle bit of oil. thought something was up as manual says rebuild at 135ish psi yet i was making plenty of power. just opened it up and found melted piston and all rings rooted. i guess it shows how well these engines perform even when not in tip top condition

as above. takes only couple minutes to remove.

yeah i would imagine 1500 is fair for headhgasket if the do everything including timing belt etc .depends on brand of head gasket.i meant earlier about running without radiator cap not to be driving it around town but just start and check for bubbles. pressure test coolant system on a warm engine and see where it leaks from

theres a coolant line running around back of the engine and a welsh plug in the rear of the head. if its not coming from there then headgasket is likely. especially if its running crap. run it with the radiator cap off and see if there are bubbles.

battery can be earthed to good clean chassis bolt in the boot. hook positive to good size connection such as starter motor or if the fuse panel has large positive like the 33`s it could go there. fairly sure 044 uses 12-15 amps and walbro 6-10.

soldering iron and solder obviously. scratch as much of that crap of and clean it up before starting. try to get the joints hot quickly and either shake it to flick out old solder or just add to it depending on what it looks like. try not to get too hot as diodes and other components will break down and fail. sharp knife or scewdriver when you finish and scratch a line between the tracks on the board incase any residue has settled between them. goodluck

had my entire dash out recently. cant say i saw anything prob cos i wasnt looking for a particular thing. definetely wasnt easily noticable. thought it would have been in the control unit. inspected around the ecm hey?? wonder if it would be near recirc area for the air to keep it cool. would be good to know what it looks like. ask google

2 power supplies at relay? supply and signal? earth at relay ok too? havent got schematic either but sounds like you have replaced the big bits

its meant to flick back and forth under light load when its in closed loop then hold on rich when you nail it. gets a little annoying when cruising around and it keeps moving....

starter has a one way drive inside. they sometimes wear out and slip when cranking. but usually they dont work then do etc and not in the middle. not sure exactly what you mean about weak start? turns over slowly, or turns fast and engine takes a while to get up to idle. goodluck

lower wattage globs or LED`s can cause this. should be 18w or 21w usually. you can change the flasher unit to an electronic one that runs at the same speed all the time no matter the wattage. which is good except you dont know when a globe is out.

if your gonna hold onto the car its worth doin the waterpump aswell. think it was 120 from nissan and is behind all that. mine started leaking from tell tale about 120,000 and saves pulling it apart again