t_revz

did you price it up through nissan? they can often be very expensive. $42 each from justjap. maybe cheaper elsewhere or look 4 cheap kits http://www.justjap.com/store/search.php?mode=search&page=1

id change fluid if you havent already and bleed the clutch again and go from there..

when i moved to japan my car was parked up with half tank for 7 months and started no worries when i got back. just took it easy til that tank was gone and some fresh stuff was in

i would be starting at the light that was playing up. prob a bad connection that has developed and burnt causing a short and blowing the fuse

unlikely but try unplugging the alternator when testing current draw

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/118831-squeaky-clutch-how-to-fix/page__p__2216865 see if this helps

+1 for taking it somewhere else. with a set of gauges connected they should be able to tell you if its low on gas, tx valve fault, clutch slipping etc etc. wont cost much just to get a diagnosis. and would have to be extreme to cost thousands.

educated guess i would say 600-750g of gas. R134a and R12 use different oils. ive done conversions from 12-134 but not the other way. 12 is meant to be a better refridgerant but i still wouldnt run it as 134 is effective. there is a sight glass on the dryer to help or gas it up til pressures are correct

after a month this is where i was at. the spraypainters next door gave it a quick once over then hit it with 3 undercoats and from memory 3 or 4 of yellow

what about spacers below the speakers? i run 6 splits in a custom box across the parcel shelf allowing me to fit a 1000CCA CAT battery on the factory enclosure with minor mods

should be able to turn off a/c after selecting demist. but demist is hopeless with a/c running. but at 32 with a/c should still be hot

on 33 it goes from turbo(eye terminal) to earth terminal on lh front strut tower(plug)

had a mate get his ute stuck in a river for an hour and few days later heaps or plugs had green death in them and corroded out. i would hit any plugs that woulda been under with silicone spray, crc or wd-40 etc just to be safe. 40cm should be well below the dipstick? unlucky mate

i deal with torx hex screws etc day in day out and when they strip i usually put the next size bit in and smash it home then they crack.maybe .5-1mm will go in.or get a drift and hammer and give the head of the bolt a good tap and try again. might help tightening a few of the other bolts back up first if you havent already.

ive never had a drama cam, just wipe off when your finished and it burns away on start up.penetrene is good stuff too! look forward to seeing results

Spent a few months working in Brisvegas before a mate got me doing cashies after work for a Jag repair shop nearby. We struck up a deal where I would help him out then he would re-spray the bonnet as it had bubbles appearing and looked crap. Eventually I decided I wanted the whole car sprayed. So at new year when I couldn’t get holidays I snatched it and planned to rip into it after new year. At this stage I had my sights set on the pearl blue that holden had only recently released. In the final days I changed my down to the yellow ford was running at the time. For the next 4 weeks I set out ripping it apart and sanding it back. I drove it there each day until it was too far gone. Got quite a few looks each day when it looked this far gone.

took the car to get new 040 fuel pump and decided to wait in the store while they did it...this was where things started to get expensive. i got talking with one of the guys about what order things should be done when upgrading. by the end of the conversation i had booked the car in for a Gcg hi-flow turbo, stainless steel dump pipe, Power FC with hand controller, Blitz DSBC spec s, Turbosmart Dual port Bov. Dropped car off during the week and came back friday to pick it up.car went on the dyno and Ant came in to see me and said the turbo wasnt responding properly and might take a bit longer. he ripped the inlet off the turbo and found the impeller to be rubbing on the housing. apparently it was caused by insufficient oil able to pass through the cartridge due to poor assembly. another turbo was ordered and i got to borrow Xspeeds Nissan Micra for the weekend As i had planned to drive from Perth to Gold Coast the following week i asked for a safe tune as i wouldnt be able to buy 98 across the nullabor. picked it up following week and was up to 282.9 rwhp @ 12 psi. i was happy but wondering where the missing parts of the spark plugs had gone when detonating and whether this had affected my power now.

got ignition power at the plug in the back of the alternator?

.30 isnt much. could be false reading from one of the gauges or you could move where the timer gets power.

doesnt matter who makes the alternator should be 13.8-14-4 in a perfect world. touch higher is ok but not too much more.

im hearing ya. but its not over yet

yeah you can block it. if your going to re-use same hoses for when its fixed then prob wouldnt put a bolt up it and clamp as it could wreck the inside of the hose. find something smoother. pretty sure on the inside of the cab there are 2 short heater hoses running from firewall to the core so it may just be one of them...

you can just block them or join them. put a bolt up em and clamp or something simular. heater doesnt run all the coolant through it and if you couldnt block it then cars wouldnt have heater taps/valves

does anyone run a low level switch in their surge? if there was a spot inch or so above pickup connected to a simple warning light might give piece of mind down the strip?

few years back mine started running rough under decel and accel and black soot over the ass end but ran sweet when cruising. ended up being a cracked CAS bracket and timing was out.