Simon-S14

pull the pipe of the turbo hat goes to the intercooler... does it have a heavy layer of oil or pools of oil sitting in it? if so... front seal of turbo is the likely issue

need a ford 3 wire sensor.. which covers most falcons til the BA's where they start using a 4 wire sensor.

ford one's can be used they are around 50 bucks new.

well its not the whole point... but the point is to get it tuned or run up on the dyno by people who know what the f**k they are doing

RB25 oil pumps are 500 from nissan, so you'd be silly not to pay a few hundred more for a jun 26 pump... tho that said i cant understand how they are so expensive.... a water pump has the same sort of casting required to make it... the only expensive part i can see being is the gear set... but stil!

lol i use a small flat head screwdriver which tip is 0.8mm.... since im always gapping plugs for other ppl i use this.. but yeah feeler guages shoudl always ben used to CHECK the gap of your new plugs... 9 times out of 10 the gap is correct but every now and then there is a misgap

wow thanks for the positive comments guys... i thought i was the only one who thought it looked good haha... i have wanted white rims for a while since i borrowed a mates set of AVS rims painted in white and it really sets the red off. BTW for those that care my car is painted in the new Mazda Velocity Red... looks great in sunlight.. same as seen on mazda rx8's n shit

you have no idea what your talking about. Regapping plugs is neither dodgy or "an ancient tool" Its a well known fact that many skylines with mods will not run the stock 1.1 plug gap. buying expensive iridums at $35 each will not solve any problems either. Just get some BCPR6E plugs and check the gap is 0.8mm all plugs should be checked with feeler gauges to see if they are what they are rated at... just cause it says 0.8 or 1.1mm on the box doesnt mean it is;)

a white whale...

oil gets picked up from the sump and straight into the oil filter, then the pump, then the galleries i believe.

importers is a good start

i lost my mod status too yesterday after 4-5 years since im "too opinionated"

another thing to note is that with the longer LCA's on the front it pushes the bottom of the wheel out and the top in (giving you that camber) it also means you have more room to run decent offsets all round.

some points. I run 17X9.5 + 17 work XD9's and 235 tyres and they dont rub, my guards have been hand flared but not heaps... they wouldnt fit stock guards thats for sure. However im assuming most ppl here have rolled guards as a minimum. I also run 7 kg front and 5 kg rear in my skyline, R33 front LCA's with new bushes, stock upper control arms with new noltec bushes also (didnt want upper camber arms) and this combo gives me 2.5 - 3 degrees (depending on the height i run) handling is fantastic and i have found that the longer LCA"s have almost eliminated any bump steer and they make for a very direct feel on the track. Ive got the SK sway bars all round and run them medium front and soft rear, along with that ive got traction rods in the rear which ive spent a lot of time setting up, i was running 5mm longer then stock, with slight toe in an minimal camber and the rear grip was great. i have since changed all the specs for an upcoming track day (drift but i do some grip here an there) in the search of getting even more grip.

Got a full set, but the fronts arnt here yet massive props to streeter for getting them for me way cheaper then anyone else could. Size is 17X9.5 +17 all round. perfect fit!

around 300 degrees i believe the magnets start to loose their magnetism Still. looks like a great idea in theory... Im keen to see how well it works. Anyone cut open their filter afterwards?

yeah and when it blows (it will.. they all do) you'll need need to spend a fortune fixing it

welding cable is the go, the stuff is rated to 400 odd amps which is more then enough for your car

this is the point to call them up and give them a big WTF.... sucks to hear dude, but they should come through and fit it up

asked a mate who has used both, and apparently the comp version is just heavier thats all. so STD one would be fine for day to day duties with thrashing here andf there comp one basically will handle everything you throw at it, the one i drove was the comp version and seemed awesome! lot more driveable and lighter peddle then my GTR exedy sport ceramic 5 puck

theres one thick one next to the drivers side engine mount then on the turbo side there is a smaller wire which goes from turbo to chassis. one on the gearbox too if i recall. However most people ditch these the minute they first change the clutch or the box comes out..doesnt seem to affect much at all. Just replace the thick strap from the motor to the chassis, and where it bolts to the chassis it should also have a equal sized wiring going to the earth on the battery.

Your manifold, while it looks like its a pro job with the cut and shut, is a really really bad idea,since the runners are designed for air coming in at the normal throttle position, now you have the TB at the front... this means cylns 5-6 are less likely to get the same amount of air. if you had the manifold on the motor when it blew up, i dare say it could have played a huge part in it.

list looks decent except you should upgrade the rods also while its apart, Go with the GT SS turbo's for awesome response and yeah you should look at a modded sump also to prevent oil surge. It pays to fully rebuild the head with new guides and so forth, as for who, get a list of recommended shops in your area and go visit them, ask them plenty of questions but make sure they have delt with RB's before. 10K will cover the build up for the motor, the turbo's and bolts on will chew up a fair wack more

yeah front seal let go on the old turbo. which is why if the smoke symptoms happen, the first thing you do is pull off the cooler pipes to look for oil pooling, in some case the intercooler gets a decent coating of oil in it also. good to hear the new turbo is on... should be an animal

its mechanical. its caused by the cable binding up and/or the plastic part that drives the cluster being worn. 90 - 100 bucks brand new from nissan for the whole arrangement