Merli

He sandblasts, linishes and polishes them every night to maintain a mirror-like finish and enviable lustre.

Words cannot describe the level of gutlessness that you exhibited by having to create a new account to post your views, and not have the courage to post it under your own name.

I can't wait for Boostmeister's comments

Drive it yes, race it no... People who know me, know I hardly ever open up the throttle on public roads... Mainly because if I do, and a Police Officer hears my wastegate dump, it's all over... I'm going to get pulled over and the bonnet opened, which is the *LAST* thing I need to happen. So on the roads, I normally putt around at the speed limit, trying to draw as little attention to myself as possible... Driving a modified Skyline attracts enough attention as it is, without me opening my very VERY unsociable wastegate everywhere... So basically 95% of the time I drive my car in anger, is on the race track... The car is setup for trackwork, not drag racing, and that's how I like it... I'd say trackwork 90%, drags 10% would be my priority... But that doesn't mean I'm going to neglect that 10%... I still want to cut good times down the 1/4 mile for myself, not for anyone else.

Excellent... I guess I'll go ahead and order 26x8.5-15s then! You ran your passes on standard diff, driveshafts and tailshafts?!? I've already broken one driveshaft on my first outing! And that was just on 18" Dunlop Formula Rs! I was expecting to snap a whole bucketload when I put slicks on... Hmmm... I guess it's good news to hear yours have held up, hopefully the new one will suffice... I'll give Shane a call and see if he can shed some light on those weird Imperial measurements for me Thanks for all your help mate! Andrew.

This was taken from a newsgroup, and then posted onto an eGroup I am on... I don't claim any of the following as my own work. How a F1 Motor Can Make Music http://www.ausdaoc.net/Chauffe2.mp3 First you'll hear a 10-cylinder, 750 horsepower Asiatech F1 engine being warmed up. Then it performs a rousing version of "When The Saints Come Marching In", to the delight of assembled pit staff and journalists. Here's how the magic was achieved (technical/musical details via F1 Racing magazine): As we all know, a V10 engine produces five combustions per revolution at a frequency per second of 60/(5 x revs per minute), which equals 12/rpm. Therefore, to work out the revs you need to hit a particular musical note, you multiply the note's frequency by 12. To play a 440Hz 'A', for example, you need 5,280rpm. For 'C', use 3,139rpm, for 'F' 4,191rpm, and so on. Asiatech's French technicians (the engine, despite its name, is derived from a Peugeot design) simply programmed their engine to run through the various rev/note ranges in the correct sequence. The result is delightful. And think of the possibilities - BMW's F1 engine, which howls all the way to 19,050rpm, could rip through the entire Hendrix songbook. Even better: imagine a massed NASCAR choir performing "The Star Spangled Banner"! Being eight-cylinder engines, the frequency per second would be 60/(4 x revs), which means you'd multiply the note frequencies by 15 instead of 12: 'A' would arrive at 6,600rpm, 'C' at 3,923rpm, 'F' at 5,238rpm, etc. Mark my words, someone will be getting rich at Daytona next year selling a CD of NASCAR patriotic anthems. Send some of the royalties my way. It's pretty cool-sounding, really, and it says a LOT about exactly how much control the pit guys really have over the cars and engines these days. Give it a listen. I don't know if they take requests, but Jordan/Honda and BAR/Honda could probably do "Purple Haze" in honor of their ever-grenading motors!

Does anyone know how wide R32 rims are?

Thanks heaps Brett! A few more questions. I'm deciding whether to use 26.0/8.5-15 or 28.0/9.0-15 MT ET Drags... I have a manual gearbox, so I guess I'm going to try and minimize the shock on my drivetrain as much as possible... Would the larger diameter 28s be a lot harder to spin up, and hence place a larger shock on my gearset? I'm assuming that it's easier to spin a smaller diameter tyre than it is a larger one? I'd love the softer sidewall of the 28s, but the increased drivetrain shock may not be worth it? Secondly, I've decided to go with the Cragar Drag Star II /Weld Pro Star style rim... There are a few different options available, but I'm not sure how they translate into offsets and stuff... Which one would be suitable for the rear of the GTS-t? 15 in. x 8 in. (5 x 4-1/2 in. B.C), 3-1/2 in. RS 15 in. x 8 in. (5 x 4-1/2 in. B.C), 43-1/2 in. RS 15 in. x 8 in. (5 x 4-3/4 in. B.C), 3-1/2 in. RS 15 in. x 8 in. (5 x 4-3/4 in. B.C), 4-1/2 in. RS 15 in. x 8 in. (5 x 4-3/4 in. B.C), 5-1/2 in. RS Thanks again mate

Impossible actually.

No... It was a friendly squirt for 100m between friends whilst driving to get food. You haven't said one positive or encouraging thing in this thread. All you are trying to do is bring me down. Thanks for your input, but I don't need it.

Driving yes. Racing no. Yes, well obviously I've found out that my combination of 18" rims, DMS coilovers and Triple Plate clutch is quite useless for launches on street tyres... Too much power. But the DMS coilovers, 17" D01Js and Triple Plate are *EXCELLENT* for track work, which is great, because that's what I prefer by FAR... I'm only doing drags for a side activity because it's just another avenue of motorsport that I enjoy... "Winning is winning"? On the drag strip, unless you're racing a mate, the only person you're racing against is yourself... So I guess I won AND lost? I don't street race, so that quote was quite irrelevant methinks...

It sounds like English... It looks like English... But hell if I can understand a word of it...

I vote for a simple t-shirt... Cheaper than a polo, and therefore more accessible for more people, and it's more casual... I personally don't wear polos

Mate... I'm in need of some slicks for my R33 GTS-t... I read in Zoom that you ran 15x8.5" slicks on the back of your car? Did you fit those over the standard rear brakes? If so, could you please hook me up with some details on where I can get some of those "Convo Pro" rims? Cheers mate, Andrew.

I must say that I was extremely impressed with MIZ.33T's driving at Oran Park... As you all know, she drives an almost undriveable T78-33D powered R33 GTS-t, who's power delivery is actually quite useless, especially around a racetrack for inexperienced punters who can't keep it on boost all the time... Even then, it would be a hard beast to tame and launch out of corners without spinning out. I expected MIZ.33T to just eat everyone on the straights, and hold everyone else up around the rest of the track, but I was astounded when I saw her pulling away from obviously much more experienced drivers on corner exits and taking very nice lines... This was her very first time on a racetrack!!

You're 110% correct there I just installed a NISMO triple plate clutch in, and I guess it has moved the "weak point" of the drivetrain to the driveshafts... What's going to happen after I put billet driveshafts in? The gearbox will most probably go BOOOOM tinkle tinkle tinkle As Troy said yesterday at Eastern Creek, "Terminal Speed is to see what the car can do... ET is for those who want to spend another $20,000 actually doing it" :bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha:

Hehehehe... I'm afraid it isn't that simple Linus... As the late Ayrton Senna once said, "It's easy to drive a slow car fast, but difficult to drive a fast car fast". What this means is that it's easy to extract near-maximum potential out of a slow car (fast lap times, fast ETs, etc), but it's much much harder to drive a fast car to it's full potential. I guess you'll find this out when you start making proper horsepower out of your s15 The RotorMaster RX7 that we saw run a 7.8 second pass (or something like that) was amazing yes? How do you think it would go with Street tyres? I'd predict a 30.5 @ 172 mph... When you go over a certain horsepower level, there's no point in running with street tyres (well, not 18" street tyres anyway, perhaps 15" Nitto NT-555Rs would be okay), you need slicks to put the power to the ground. I've spoken to a lot of people who are very experienced drag racers, and expressed my disappointment at the times and they all laughed at me when I told them what tyres I was using... Basically the unanimous opinion was I was kidding myself if I expected to set a fast ET with those tyres. Fast Terminal Speed, yes, but Fast ET? No way. So I'm going to have to put the slicks on to put the power to the ground, and run the fast ET that everyone judges the car on... I now know how Mario feels when people won't accept a car unless it's run a fast time down the 1/4 Mile... Albeit to a slightly lesser extent

Normal bolt-ons I'll PM you.

Good news people!!! I managed to cleanly snap the right driveshaft, and my diff was unhurt, so I was lucky this time... It's been replaced with another standard driveshaft, and next time I head out there, I'll be sporting 16" slicks or 15"s if we can manage to fit 15"s over the rear brakes... Anyone done this before? I'll put photos of the driveshaft up soon TOO MUCH POWAAAAAAAAH!!!

Yeah dude... That's why I even bothered to go out there with the 18s... So I could set a time on the tyres that I normally drive the car on... No point in doing a 10 second pass on slicks with nitrous if I can only do a 13.1 with my normal street rubber and no NOS Oh well... I guess my car sucks with normal road rubber... Someone give me ATESSA!!!

RUH ROH!!! Prank shares his b'day with Martin Donnon! Happy Birthday mate!

Beautiful car mate! I can't wait for some larger photos... I can't drool over that little avatar for too much longer

Well I must say I'm very disappointed. Firstly, I've learn't one thing. There's no point in having oodles of power, if you can't put it down to the ground until halfway up the track. Secondly, rock hard coilovers plus stiff 18" tyre sidewalls do NOT make for good launches. Thirdly, I need slicks to cut any decent times in my car Okay, basically the best time I ran tonight was a 13.1 @ 112.9mph... That mph translates to a high 11 second pass, but predictable traction problems kept me from gaining any traction until mid track... Also, the launch is a fiddly thing. DMS coilovers and 18" rims make for LOTS and LOTS of axle-tramping off the line, and no traction. If I reduce the launch rpm, I'll bog down and have to wait 2-3 seconds for the turbo to re-spool... There is no middle ground, plus with my new triple plate clutch, there is no such thing as "slipping it off the line"... Basically my only option was to dial up 4500 rpm, let the clutch out and wheelspin all the way through first and halfway through second. This was with a burnout-warmed 265/35ZR18 Dunlop D01Js too... So basically I'll need slicks, and perhaps get hold of some stock shocks/springs and then head back out there. Oh yes. I nearly forgot. On my last pass, I dialed up 4500rpm and launched it, only to hear this massive CRAAAAAAAACK, and the car just stopped dead. Everything went silent for a while there. I have successfully broken my drivetrain. I predict that it's the rear differential, but I guess I'll find out tomorrow. :goddam:

I completely smashed my rear diff tonight at Eastern Creek Drags, so I'm a non-starter for tomorrow

I'll be there early... Do a few runs, and then I might go when it starts getting crowded... I'm not really looking forward to lining up for 1.5 hours to get one pass...