Merli

This is 100% impossible. When the engine is switched off, there WILL be 0-vacuum/0-pressure in your intake manifold. Why? Because there is a free path for air to flow through your air filter, and intake manifold/piping pressure will stabilise to atmosphere, causing 0-vacuum. If you gauge isn't sitting on zero when it should be... I dunno what that means, but I put forward this as a reason why Japanese Electronic gauges read zero at vacuum, and mechanical Autometer gauges are known "crap gauges".

Ring Gary's Motorsport Tyres in Blacktown. URL: http://www.motorsportworld.com.au/outlets/garys/ Ph: 02 9676 8655 I bought 4x 235/45ZR17 Dunlop D01Js off them for $400 each. They supply those tyres for all the motorsport teams, so they have hundreds and HUNDREDS in stock in their shop. No need to pre-order. I rang in the morning, and drove there that afternoon.

Your shaft might have developed a bit of play and the compressor/exhaust wheels rubbing against the housing... Time for a rebuild

Black Car with Black rims?

I bought a few Defi Link Gauges, but decided not to use them... They're brand new, and I have both older and new control boxes... They come with three gauges: Boost, Water Temp, and Oil Temp. All 60mm White Face... They're all brand new and I'm willing to sell them for Japanese Retail prices... email me at [email protected] and I'll email you photos of them...

Bullsh1t. You can use different parts from different bodykits and make your own adaptation or interpretation. You don't have to design your own to have a unique bodykit.

I put DS3000s in everytime I goto the track... I quickly swap out the DS2500s, and put the DS3000s in when I change my wheels to track rims and rubber... Takes an extra 5 minutes per wheel and personally I reckon they're awesome... No fade whatsoever (this is probably a combination of pads, rotors and fluid though), and they haul my ass up 100%, every single corner, no matter how late I brake, or how long I stay out there for... Noisy as hell though, and everyone thinks my car is going to fall apart when I drive to and from the track with the DS3000s, and obviously very dusty.

Yes, a few police cars are fitted with their digital network already for a trial basis...

Ahhh I see... Well I had standard brakes and I boiled the brake fluid on the back straight of Wakefield in 4 laps (including 1 warmup lap, so really 3 laps)... So I spoke to Kevin Gavin and we put together a suitable brake package for my horsepower levels... For more standard cars that see track work, I would suggest just a simple Kangaroo Paw core, with perhaps a stronger metal composite for better wear characteristics that can withstand harsh metallic trackwork pads, and still last a decent amount of time... I know a few people do what I do and use a harsher compund pad for the track, but fear that we'll eat through the rotors... Strong rotors, one set of pads for street and one for track, braided lines and good brake fluid should be all most cars need... ....in my humble opinion obviously. If I'm wrong, please correct me Steve.

I don't understand... Don't you already have discs for skylines? They're listed in your catalogue, and I have them on my car... Front AP Racing 6 Piston Calipers DBA 330mm 'Kangaroo Paw' Slotted Rotors (Two Piece Rotors w/ Seperate Mounting Hat) BF Goodridge Braided Brake Lines Ferrodo DS3000 (Track) / DS2500 (Road) Brake Pads Rear Nissan 2 Piston Calipers DBA 294mm 'Kangaroo Paw' Slotted Rotors (One Piece Rotors) BF Goodridge Braided Brake Lines Ferrodo DS2500 Brake Pads

I'm pretty sure that they're perfectly legal...

heh For those interested, it took me 6 months of driving to shops all around Sydney checking out R33 bodykits until I could picture in my mind *EXACTLY* how I wanted my car to look... I was also comparing bodykit qualities, to ensure I got the best quality parts (thickest fibreglass I could find) Here is what I ended up getting, for those who want to know: GTR Front Bar - Unique Autosports GTR Front Grill - Unique Autosports GTR Rear Wing - Powerplay Imports 400R Rear Bumper w/ Side Pods - Just Jap 400R Side Skirts - Just Jap Here are some more higher-res photos: http://www.andrewho.com/photos/skyline/

Looks like an APEXi intercooler... Never seen one in black before though... They were specifically designed for front mount applications, and not to disrupt airflow too much so the radiator still gets good saturation... It's a very good core... You've done well

Yuck... Did you sell your sense of taste along with your Skyline?

I too, thought that the Z32 AFM would be good enough, but I've been told that it might run out of tuning resolution when I turn the boost all the way up... I'll have to see how it goes... I bought both IN and EX HKS cam gears, but I could only use the EX at this stage... We took the VCT sensor off, and the actual camshaft doesn't have the the mounting holes to mount the HKS cam gear. I've driven the car at Eastern Creek, Oran Park and Wakefield Park so far, and running only 0.9 bar max each time, I must say that the power delivery is too brutal for a circuit car... When boost hits, if you're not going in a straight line, the rear wheels just spin (I use R33 GTR rims with 235/45 Dunlop D01Js for the track)... Also turns that everyone else takes in 2nd gear, I have to take in 3rd gear as when I exit the corner in 2nd gear, as soon as I give it a little gas, it just spins the wheels and hits the redline, forcing me to rip it into 3rd gear anyway... I lose a lot of corner exit speed having to do this On the street, it's awesome (I use 265/35/18 Dunlop D01Js on the rear for the street) I can drive around like a normal car with little to no boost 90% of the time, saving petrol and when I need the power, it's just a downshift away...

That looks like a T88-34D to me... :drooling:

It'll probably be a good idea to spell "brakes" correctly in your FAQ

The limit of the standard turbo is around 180rwkw. Some will make a little more power, some less... If someone has proof that a stock turbo made 200rwkw+, all it means is that it was dyno'ed on a "happy dyno"...

Mine starts spooling at 2500rpm, and makes 1 bar boost by 4000rpm, where my wastegate opens and all hell breaks loose... It dumps to atmosphere, so it attracts a little too much attention when I floor it... I have to be very careful that there aren't any Police around Yeah, it's a UAS GTR front bar... I don't like it... It's meant for a Series 1 R33, and doesn't fit on mine properly... I'm currently looking for a new GTR front bar that will fit a Series 2... If any of you guys can hook me up, that'd be awesome! It's much lower than the stock Type-M bar... If you look closely, you'll notice I've raised the front suspension by about 2cm to give myself a little more clearance...

I can tell it you takes a LONG time I had two PowerFCs, and I copied *ALL* settings from one PowerFC to the other for troubleshooting... I got out the laptop, and fired up Excel I sat there for three hours with my cousin reading out every single point on both ignition and fuel maps, as well as all other settings in the PFC... I was ready to kill someone after doing that... ARGH!!! Then I had to plug in the other PowerFC and copy all the data in the spreadsheet into the new PowerFC, which took even longer... About 4 hours.... Worst thing was, that there was nothing wrong with the original PowerFC, so all that was done in vain matlowth (matt1) & whatsisname (matt2), have you guys got webpages up with your mods and photos of your cars? It's good to see other more *properly* modified R33 GTS-ts running around... Pity we all live in different cities! Here's mine: actually I don't want everyone knowing my car... I'll PM you guys the URL edit: Mine is the white one obviously... Don't mind the GTR badges, they're there to cover screw holes from the previous owner until I can source a new bootlid

Oh dear... I feel really stupid now :Oops: Tuners contest eh? Awesome idea... But I wonder how many tuners would actually have the balls to show up and participate, and how many would chicken out

I have a 1.6mm HKS Stopper-Type Metal Head Gasket sitting next to me, ready to go on when I put the forged internals into my RB25... It's supposed to drop compression down to 8.6:1... I too am interested in how it'll affect off-bost performance... Especially since I'm planning on changing camshafts, which will mean I have to lose NVCS (Variable Intake Cam) which will result in even more bottom end loss

WOOHOO!!!! FIELD TRIP!!! I'd love to come down to Melbourne and let you take me for a fang in your car... I want to visit a few of the clubs down there too, my friends tell me they go off! There was talk of a "meet halfway"-type cruise between NSW/QLD or NSW/VIC a while ago, but no-one has gotten off their asses and organised it... Imagine the collective horsepower between a VIC/NSW meet Anyway, back to the matter at hand... I agree with you... I don't know how much better 400 load points would be vs. 256 points... I actually had a spare PowerFC lying around up until about 3 weeks ago... This thread should have popped up earlier... I would have been more than happy to send it down to you to play with and do back to back runs with your LT12... I guess that's the only way to see how much of a difference it makes... Same car, same dyno, same day, different ECUs. ROFL!!! I actually burst out laughing at the dog part I think I woke up my dog doing so... :lol: :lol:

Yeah, I did take the analogy too far, but that's the beauty of analogies The thing is, when Matt says he make 250rwkw, that's just peak power... Although that's an excellent figure, it doesn't tell you what his power delivery is like, what his half throttle performance is like, what his throttle response is like, etc... After saying that, I saw the dyno chart Meggala posted up for him, and in all honesty, it looks like an excellently tuned car, with excellent power delivery... No rough bumps... I'm running an HKS GT3040, and making 275.8rwkw @ 1.1 bar(can't get a higher reading because my OS Giken twin plate clutch is slipping now More money down the drain to get new clutch plates)... The HKS GT3040 doesn't come into it's efficiency range until 1.6-1.9 bar, so the turbo isn't even breathing hard yet... I just have to put forged internals in there, and turn up the boost... Oh... and find a spare $5000 first To make that, I'm using a PowerFC, but to be honest I need to find something else. The Z32 AFM I'm using is not going to cope with the turbo flowing 2.0 bar worth of air(which is what I'm going to run it at after the internals get done), so I need an ECU that can use a MAP sensor, and get rid of my AFM... Maybe I'll start a thread and see what suggestions people can come up with

Perhaps you didn't ask the right questions? Perhaps Tillbrooks makes a larger profit selling the Microtech? (Very VERY possible) Perhaps Tillbrooks prefers to work with Microtech? There could be a lot of reasons. You seem to have completely missed my point. The main reason for having a greater number of load points is to give higher tuning resolution. Who does the tuning? Your tuner. You may very well not notice the smoother power delivery from more accurate fuel and ignition maps... In which case, I suggest you get the cheapest ECU you can find. For those of you who want to give your tuner the best possible tool to work with when tuning your expensive engine, I suggest buying the best ECU available. It's not rocket science to realise that giving your tuner an A4 peice of paper to work with is better than giving him an A5 peice of paper to work with. Actually it's a very bad analogy, because a higher resolution tuning map is in use 100% of the time... It's not a function you can just "never use", like a whizz-bang stereo function. Whatever... If you don't think you'll be able to tell the difference between a $1500 Nakamichi deck, and a $300 Sansui deck, then I suggest you buy the Sansui deck. If you *CAN* tell the difference, then the decision is already made for you. In any case... For those arguing the effectiveness of a 20x20 map vs. 16x16 map, you have already got your mind made up that the LT12 is your solution. Fine. But know that your argument on the 256 load points being just as good as 400 load points is actually quite laughable. Seriously. How much better is it? I'm not sure. Is it worth the extra money? I'm not sure. But is it better? Absolutely, without a doubt. Simple maths.