Merli

Perhaps you didn't ask the right questions? Perhaps Tillbrooks makes a larger profit selling the Microtech? (Very VERY possible) Perhaps Tillbrooks prefers to work with Microtech? There could be a lot of reasons. You seem to have completely missed my point. The main reason for having a greater number of load points is to give higher tuning resolution. Who does the tuning? Your tuner. You may very well not notice the smoother power delivery from more accurate fuel and ignition maps... In which case, I suggest you get the cheapest ECU you can find. For those of you who want to give your tuner the best possible tool to work with when tuning your expensive engine, I suggest buying the best ECU available. It's not rocket science to realise that giving your tuner an A4 peice of paper to work with is better than giving him an A5 peice of paper to work with. Actually it's a very bad analogy, because a higher resolution tuning map is in use 100% of the time... It's not a function you can just "never use", like a whizz-bang stereo function. Whatever... If you don't think you'll be able to tell the difference between a $1500 Nakamichi deck, and a $300 Sansui deck, then I suggest you buy the Sansui deck. If you *CAN* tell the difference, then the decision is already made for you. In any case... For those arguing the effectiveness of a 20x20 map vs. 16x16 map, you have already got your mind made up that the LT12 is your solution. Fine. But know that your argument on the 256 load points being just as good as 400 load points is actually quite laughable. Seriously. How much better is it? I'm not sure. Is it worth the extra money? I'm not sure. But is it better? Absolutely, without a doubt. Simple maths.

Well Matt... If your tuner can't take advantage for a higher resolution tuning map, then I suggest you find yourself a competent tuner. I'm sure whoever tuned your car should be able to give you a smoother power curve and better power delivery with nearly double the load points. It's not a matter of whether WE can tell it has double the load points or not, it's a matter of whether your TUNER can take advantage of it... If he can't, then see above. This isn't a case of "more features or dials on the stereo", this is a case of "Deck A has 8V preouts and Deck B has 1V preouts"...

Biggest reason: LT12 = 16x16 Map = 256 Tuning/Load Points PFC = 20x20 Map = 400 Tuning/Load Points. That's nearly twice the tuning resolution. 'nuff said.

The only bad things I've heard about BBT are their: 1. stupidly expensive prices and 2. somewhat limited range... They seem to have a lot of FTOs and Soarers.

You only just installed it now?!?! It's been like 5-6 months since you bought it!!!! :eek:

Can you please email me detailed photos of the rear wing and bootlid? If I'm happy with the condition, I'll take them for $450.. [email protected]

You should be fine with 14 psi with stock intercooler. Just make sure your tuning is nice and safe and not too lean... I ran 0.9 bar (14psi) with PowerFC and stock IC for about 8 months... No worries. But if you're thinking of using a PowerFC off his 300ZX on your R32, that ain't gonna work PowerFCs are model specific. You can't even use an R33 GTR PowerFC on an R33 GTS-t.

I'm interested... Will confirm closer to the date...

Is that a genuine GTR rear wing? i.e. plastic, not fibreglass?

Check this thread Paul... http://forums.skylinesaustralia.com/showth...=&threadid=3818

Okay... The plenums on their website look pretty well designed

brendan... Good to see another R33 being given the full treatment :uh-huh: One thing though... A custom plenum you're planning on getting... I don't really like that idea... SubZero have done a bit of flow testing on their plenum, so that's quite alright, but if you're planning on getting your mechanics to knock one up, it'll be questionable... Getting even flow to each individual cylinder is an art, and takes a TON of R&D... I can guarantee you that you will have *very* distorted flow seperation figures from a custom plenum, unless they make up a dozen designs in R&D... I'd suggest the SubZero or GReddy plenum for your car with those mods.

Why let facts stand in the way of a good story?

No worries... I think what I'm offering is completely fair... I'm not even trying to bargain down the $500 you're asking for the GTR wing, and I'm offering RETAIL price for the bootlid. Let me know what you decide anyway... [email protected]

:lol: Item 1: Bootlid Item 2: Bootlock JustJap are selling Item 1 for $175 second hand. JustJap are selling Item 2 for $175 brand new from Nissan. They are two different things. I don't need Item 2. I need Item 1. Does that clear things up for you? :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: As I said before. JustJap are selling the BOOTLID for $175. I am prepared to give *YOU* that $175 for your bootlid, and the $500 you're asking for your GTR Wing. But there is no way anyone in their right mind would pay more for the bootlid, when they can get it for that price from JustJap.

:lol: :lol: :lol: How can you ask to charge more for the bootlid than JustJap? It just doesn't make sense... It's like me saying "I can buy this CD for $28 from HMV" and you going "Well I'll sell this exact same CD to you for $35"... :uhh: :uhh:

As I said before, JustJap is selling the bootlid for $175... I'm willing to give you the $500 you're asking for the GTR wing, and $175 for the bootlid... I'll pay shipping to Sydney. email me at [email protected]

I put it on the dyno after you left... I made 271rwkw @ 1.1 bar... I could have turned the boost up, but there was no need... I already killed that dumb V8

Lets just say that the statesman didn't get "Best Overall"

Shhhh!!!! Your ignorance is showing! :slap:

I use 235/45/17 Dunlop Formula Rs all round on the track (R33 GTR rims). I also use 265/35/18 Dunlop Forumla Rs (REAR ONLY) on the road... I use Falken AZENIS ST-115 on the front for a little more wet grip so I can still steer the bastard As you can tell, I think the Dunlops are the duck's nuts. But basically if I hit boost in the wet, it's all over. I turn the boost controller off and basically crawl to my destination. They're useless in the wet. I took it to Wakefield one day and it was raining... Basically as soon as I touched the accelerator, the car spun. Ever since then, I've been scared of the car when it's raining, which is good I suppose, because it's made me drive VERY VERY slowly in the wet. In the dry though, they're awesome... Stickier than every other tyre straight off, and if you warm them up, they're like glue to the tarmac. It'll take a bit to warm them up though, a small burnout or you'll have to link quite a few corners at good speed to get some heat into the rubber.

I have an older model HKS Turbo Timer with optional harness in excellent condition for $50. I'm located in Sydney. [email protected] if you're interested. edit: SOLD.

You should never be braking through a corner anyway. Do your braking before you arrive at the corner. In regards to your problem, if your back brakes are locking up before your fronts, you have a massive bias problem. I would assume that you have a pinched line somewhere affecting this bias.

I have two 17" VOLK TE37s in Bronze finish for sale with near new rubber. [email protected] if you're interested.