Merli

HOLY CRAP!!! Donnie is trying to use me as a scapegoat!!! Shifty bastard! Lucky Brendan isn't dumb enough to fall for the dodgy Westside tricks!!!!

/me sobs quietly in the corner

Okay........ I'm scared now.

I just ate a big-ass sandwich from North Sydney... There's this little sandwich shop in the mall where McDonalds is... It used to be called "North", now they've changed the name to "Vienna Sandwiches" or something... It's a tiny little sandwich store in the middle of the mall... $6.90 for the BIGGEST sandwich on earth Great value and tastes AWESOME

Surely if you got a good launch, and hit the 330ft marker at a higher speed, the time between 330, 660 and 1000ft markers would be less than if you got a crappy, wheelspin-city launch? I'm not sure if that's right though...

:shake: As long as you don't try to stick something up my ass like those Westside homos, it's all good :lol: :lol: :lol:

I didn't know we had met before dude... Make sure you come say hi tonight... So I know who's head to throw those freeweights at next time

Yeah mate... That was me... If you see any dodgy habibs looking at my car, tell them to shoo for me will ya? :lol:

Judd... Every single dyno measures air/fuel ratios... without measuring that, you wouldn't know whether you're running lean or not and could damage your engine by continuing the power run. That said, your friend will probably have to wait until the end of the day if he wanted any tuning to be done, as this is a dyno day, not a tuning day... Having his car tuned will just make everyone else wait... Cheers, Andrew.

Well I'm such a vocal supporter of Northside, I thought I'd better come along to one of the meets

Hey Brendan... Okay, your theory here is quite flawed. All that air that's being vented wouldn't be going into the engine, because the BOV should only open when you've shut your throttle body, and not letting any more air into the engine anyway!!! Does that makes sense? Basically your BOV should just be lying dormant until such time that you take your foot off the accelerator. Your throttle body shuts, but your turbo is still spinning VERY quickly and trying to force air past your now shut throttle body. Where can that air go? Well if you had a BOV, it would vent to atmosphere, or with a plumbback, it would be returned into your intake manifold, before your turbo which means air will flow back through the turbo in the right direction. If you didn't have a BOV, where would all that rushing, pressurised air go? It ain't going into your engine as you think, because the throttle body ain't letting any air enter... It's going to have to STOP, turn around and travel back through all your piping, back through the intercooler, and try and force it's way back through the turbo, causing what's called "REVERSION" of the turbo blades... This wall of compressed air going backwards hits the turbo blades like a shockwave, and is NOT good for the life of the turbo. When I bought my car, it didn't have a BOV on it, and I quickly threw on a Blitz Dual Drive that I had... It wasn't big enough for my application, and it caused my car to run like crap... The spring wasn't strong enough and it wasn't completely shutting and leaking air... So I got rid of it, and put a Trust Type-R on there, as BY BY said, and the car runs PERFECTLY. Even though it vents to atmosphere, the Type-R has a super strong spring that shuts the BOV TIGHT, and doesn't allow any air leak, even at high boost pressures. With your car, I'd probably suggest the same BOV. Hope that helps dude.

:werd: Pretty damn good for a rush job... I've always said that Ryan had good Photochopping skills I'd be interested in a cloth one too...

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Congratulations. That is the lamest comeback I have EVER seen on an internet forum. I actually had a reply typed out, but then decided that it would just illicit another retarded reponse from you, so I'll let you have the last say. Congratulations. You sure put me in my place. :bahaha: :bahaha:

Are you stupid or just retarded? Japanese retail for these short shifters are: ECR33 - JPY36,000 ER34 - JPY38,000 BCNR33 - JPY40,000 I kind of took an average when I said Japanese Retail was JPY39,000... I EVEN INCLUDED A LINK TO TAKAKAIRA WHICH LISTS JAPANESE RETAIL PRICING These are prices that I and everyone else has to pay when ordering from Japan. Unless of course you pay for a flight to Japan, accomodation, food, then traipse around Tokyo trying to find good deals on products, and then pay $200 to ship these short shifters back to Sydney... I thought I'd help a few people out and get them cheaper prices than they'd normally be able to get, and try and recover some of my costs of my trip at the same time. Win-Win situation I reckon. If you're really this stupid and need everything spelt out to you, perhaps you should go back to the 3rd Grade.

1.3 bar isn't enough. That HKS GT3037 would be efficient at about 1.5-1.6 bar... Should be good for around 300rwkw at that boost pressure Forged pistons, shotpeened/linished rods and ARP rod bolts should be good enough for your application... Only get forged Carillo rods or the like if you're wanting to run high (9000+) redline...

hahahahahaha... What do you do all day? Lurk in forums until someone disses your magazine and then raise up on your shackles? Amusing to say the least. Actually, I never said that Ben or Jim worked for any magazine, I believe that Ben concentrates on making the videos now... What I did say, was that I take all published dyno figures with a grain of salt, because I know how easily figures can get skewed. Simple statement, but take it as you will. I know that Jim is a good tuner. He tunes my car.

Magazines are inherent liars. It comes with the territory, and all articles should be taken with a grain of salt. I'm sure I could get Jim or Con to play with the ramp rates and environment factors and eclipse 325rwkw from my car's current boost level (1.1bar), but we all know it's a bullsh1t figure They do some good work at HPI and Zoom, and I had a great time with Ben Ellis in Japan (he's a VERY funny drunk), but I'm not convinced all their dyno figures are kosher.

12s with stock turbo and stock intercooler is extremely unchartered territory. I guess most people accept what others say about the limits of the standard components, and jump straight into upgrading the two aforementioned parts when aiming for decent times... Good to see more people challenging the "accepted limits"... Good luck mate!

bump.

Count me in

Tial 46mm External Wastegate... Seems to work okay...

I really hate predicting times, but I would be happy with a 1:54... I have no idea how the cams will affect power, or power delivery, but I'm hoping that they won't make the car too laggy. I would suggest an HKS 3037... It'll make a crapload of power and be a little less laggy than the 3040, which is always a good thing.

T78-33D is waaaay too big dude. MIZ.33T has that exact turbo on her RB25DET, and it spools up at 5500rpm, and redline is at standard 7000rpm... Imagine when it'd spool up by on an RB20. My HKS GT3040 makes 1 bar (when the external wastegate opens and all hell breaks loose) at 4000rpm, and my redline is at 8000rpm... Nice useable powerband. I have just ordered 264 IN/272 EX cams from JUN with 9.7mm lift... Lift and duration are linked, but not directly... You can't say that all 272 degree cams have 11mm lift.