CruiseLiner

stagea porn at its finest im getting a r34 gtr front end and painting mine black i reckon

love the comment on necksnapping looks from skyline owners too, haha its true but i find most people have a second look and when they hear it running its very amusing like the other day in the maccas drive through and the girl serving the car infront of me looks down the drivethrough line and was lookin past my stagea for a skyline or some sort of worked v8 or somethign and i just sit there and then when i pull upto the window they realise the rumble is coming from my car hahaha its awesome to see regular peoples jaws drop when they see and hear it nuthin like the sound of 272 cams at idle cops dont look twice which is an added bonus. mine handles soo well for the weight with the sk susp package. mines a manual which is wayyy better than auto imho (and a rb26 makes it that much nicer) i love stageas oh and compared to my mates r32 gtr my stagea gets 1000 times more people having a look people are sick of skylines and they are like commodores these days on the roads. if i see one more r33 gts-t with nismo stickers and some young hoon in it, ill be damned haha.

if i leave the 30 bottom end as it is when i buy it from a wrecked VL then is the adaptor still easy to install without removing the crank and stuff? whats all the grinding needed u mention? do i need to tap new threads in the bottom of the 30 block for the sump adaptor or do u just use existing threaded holes? so my interpretation of the mods needed for fitting 26 head on and sump adaptor are... add 2nd tensioner to front of block drill and tap block for 12mm rb26 head bolts external oil pickup onto my existing 26 sump the 2 bottom gearbox bolts dont lineup but i dont care as ive ran mine without then before longer silicone joiners for cooler pipes what happens with the radiator shroud??? or doesnt the height of the fan change? 4wd sump adaptor modify top power steering bracket bolt hole get longer timing belt extend dump pipe for extra height is that all or am i missing some things to do to make it all fit? anyone care to answer my questions please???

hey guys mines still going through that 169vista site or whatever when i bring up sau homepage. and saying trojan infected yada yada how exactly do i make sure ive deleted all the old internet files/cache and whatever else needs to be done to get rid of it for good????? its giving me the shits at the moment

its an apexi power fc djetro (non afm'd version) and its like the m800 ecu is a motec and the smc4 is an autronic, and mtx12 is a microtech power fc is one specific ecu (well 2 versions as i said earlier) by apexi and nuthin to do with the name of aftermarket ecu's in any other brand. hks make an f con pro ecu but they are not good because no one tunes them except one shop in Oz i think from memory afm'd power fc is much much easier to tune and comes with a base map to start tuning from where as the djetro is a start from scratch ecu and requires a good 3-4 hours tuning just to get the engine even running. sydneykid reccomends the afm'd version in every application due to cheaper price and easier/cheaper tuning. ive actually got a gtr power fc djetro sitting in the box brand new in my room waiting to go on my stagea in the future once i put the other engine setup in plenty of over 500hp cars and one 890hp gtr is running a djetro in WA so they are pretty good ecu's just remember over 500hp reliably in a stagea is gonna cost over 20k just in mods easy! thats engine rebuild time if u want it to last as plenty are blowing pistons and the like with that sort of power. around 450hp is the cheapest and stock engine should last a fair while on that power level. so what im saying is its best to use the afm'd version in 99.9% of cases, and even the vmax apexi drag gtr that runs 8 seconds still runs afm's.

haha i was waiting for a comment like that, but 400hp is not enough and i think another 200hp+ on top of that will make the downsize a little easier to handle, plus the rpm limit of around 10k a 30/26 will be goin in the stagea again soon enough

whats the chances if i lean the engine out and lunch a piston that i do damage to the head/turbo/valves??? is it pretty rare to wreck the head if it leans out and blows a hole in a piston? lots of dollars in my head and turbo i dont wanna lose to a silly tuning error

hey dan no worries mate i didnt even really think about the r31's to be honest. is the 31 balancer ok for the conversion? what sort of km's do the 30s usually require new bearings and rings i wonder?

hey foolboost thanks again mate, just as i thought the sump adaptor is the main issue, and my plan has changed abit now and i want to rip my head off my jun stroker bottom end and put it on a stock rb30 bottom end (untouched from a vl) with stock pistons, and i dont even wanna touch the crank or bearings, etc as its actually only a temporary setup because i want to learn to tune my autronics smc ecu and i dont want the risk of wrecking my jun forgies/rods and billet crank if i lean it out or something stupid so im going to put my hks t04z/ jun 272 cams/ported head on the stock as a rock rb30 bottom end for a couple of thousand km's until ive sussed out tuning correctly and then when im confident ill put the rb27 back in for a while until i find a track car to put the engine in and then ill chuck a rb30/26 back in the stagea with a more sutle turbo setup and mild cams for daily use. i know its a long way around the solution but one mistake and its gonna cost me big time if i lunch some jun pistons, etc. best thing is ill get a direct comparision of the jun 2.7L compared to the rb30 bottom end with exactly the same external setups. ill be limiting power on the 30 to around 400hp to keep the crank oil drive and oil pump, rods, etc happy. and ill even get a dyno graph of each to compare on the same horsepower figures and compare boost figures/response etc. so if i leave the 30 bottom end as it is when i buy it from a wrecked VL then is the adaptor still easy to install without removing the crank and stuff? whats all the grinding needed u mention? do i need to tap new threads in the bottom of the 30 block for the sump adaptor or do u just use existing threaded holes? so my interpretation of the mods needed for fitting 26 head on and sump adaptor are... add 2nd tensioner to front of block drill and tap block for 12mm rb26 head bolts external oil pickup onto my existing 26 sump the 2 bottom gearbox bolts dont lineup but i dont care as ive ran mine without then before longer silicone joiners for cooler pipes what happens with the radiator shroud??? or doesnt the height of the fan change? 4wd sump adaptor modify top power steering bracket bolt hole get longer timing belt extend dump pipe for extra height is that all or am i missing some things to do to make it all fit? cheers again for the help and info Brad

any chance of a better price if we set up a group buy and buy 5 or 10 units as a group????

theres 2 versions of the power fc and one is the air flow meter version and one gets rid of the air flow meters and uses 2 map sensors called the power fc djetro the AFM'd version is fine for most power unless u are going totally insane and want over 500hp or so at the wheels, and even then the afm'd one is still fine. djetro is $1600 all up with map sensors etc and normal power fc is about $980 or so

i did forget it for sure, as the crank is brand new and i didnt even realise i needed one as i was told from a previous workshop that i dont use anymore due to them being totally useless in every aspect and they told me to remove my auto spigot bush from my stagea rb25 auto engine when i installed it into my vl calais with a manual box but they didnt say i needed a manual one in its place so i assumed manuals just didnt use one at all. luckily the 26 had one in b4 the engine build cause i had a stock crank but since the change to the jun one i didnt even think about it and thought my box was on the way out until i read a post about someone elses box doing the same thing and mine shudders alot at low rpm (around 2k rpm and under in 2nd gear and 3rd especially because i been loading it up hills to run it in and its dreadful when it does it ive just finished pulling everything off the box ready to slide it out tommorow arvo after work and should be done by the next day for sure if i can get the spigot from nissan tommorow after work. glad i dont have to pay a mechanic to do it as it would be expensive in labour. only took me just under an hour to pull everything off besides actually sliding the box off the back of the engine and thats with a mate hanging around slowing me down so it wasnt a bad effort in the end hehe ill let u know how i go thanks again everyone for the input, now how do i make sure the input shaft bearing, etc is fine before i put it all back in and find its still shuddering? ive done 1000km with it not installed which is a worry, though all done under 4k rpm, but alot of loading it up hills etc in 5th, but i made sure it never shuddered when doin it so hopefully its all ok

my crank is a jun aftermarket one and brand new so it didnt come with one installed and i didnt even remember about it before i installed the box and since the new rebuild its been noisy as hell and grinding abit soo it looks like its a box out again for the 2nd time in 2 weeks (snapped the pivot ball in half last week from my heavy twin plate clutch) god damn i love cars thanks guys for the info and the pic helps these spigot bushes are cheap as arn't they? i can get the box out in under an hour these days ive had sooo much practice and thats without a hoist and just in my 2 car garage with a jack and spanners.

gtr one for sure, im 99.9% sure 32 and 33 ones are the same part no. anyway, but double check to be sure and r33 would definately be the right one if they are different.

hey mate thanks for that info, i have actually just been lookin on the gtruk forums and reading that thread on the 30 setup but he didnt actually explain why he moved it and how he did it exactly except a pic of the external fitting on the side of the sump. i just wanted to know why its not possible to use on the 4wd sump and u explained it exactly how i thought. so who has a pic of the factory oil pickup location on the rb30 blocks? its exactly the same location isnt it by the looks of this pic so is it the fact the 4wd sump adaptor goes on that it actually blocks the spot for it and therefore needing to use the external one instead? or am i totally off track and getting confused?

has anyone got some pics of the oil pick up relocation and do i need to do this for a rb30 with 26 head and 4wd sump? whats the reason for this exactly? is it the fact it comes out the 30 block where the driveshafts go or something else? can someone explain the procedure and what needs to be moved and where to? thanks Brad

hey guys is the spigot bearing and thrust bearing the same thing or not? my knowledge is that the thrust bearing is the one the clutch fork presses onto and therefore presses the clutch fingers in, and where exactly is the spigot bush/bearing located? is it in the crank or the flywheel? i got the JUN crank and i didnt put one in if its supposed to be in the rear of the crank just wondering cause my box is noisy on idle with the clutch not pressed and when loading it up hills it makes a terrible whirring/grinding noise at lowish rpm which is annoying and doesnt seem right. any ideas guys? cheers Brad

who u callin youngin the cash is burning a hole in my pocket

hey any news on prices, or are they coming in the mail from japan or something

i work as a ceramic tiler and occasionally take the stagea but i am usually in the hilux workhorse to carry all the tools. ive also seen the painter who owns the stagea though ive never chatted to him. i cop the old get a v8 shit from the other tradies but then i tell em i got a gtr engine and mention the old bathurst era and they quickly shut up

i mounted my autronics boost solenoid up underneath my plenum on my rb26 and its not visable from above at all

i found my trust t78/88 manifold flange onto the turbo was not flat at all and required machining as there was a hump in the middle section and the edges dropped off. u pay good money and still have to change things

hahaha i was thinkin the same thing

haha its good to be young and single gotta make the most of it before its all over

hey cubes that clutch sounds alright for my needs, so the big question is, how much was it and how much is the bit lighter version? anyone got any ideas on what sort of rpm a rb30/26 with stock rb30e pistons and my hks to4z 0.81 housing will make full boost? thanks for the turbo tech info discopotato the hks version sounds good but i am on a limited budget and want value for money heres the rough costs i have added up.. (this is for a maximum of 400rwhp) 26 head and plenum - $1000 (from a mate) 30 bottom end complete and untouched - $250 gtr injectors - $280 nismo regulator- $140 timing belt - $100 head and manifold gasket kit - $350 exhuast manifold - $300 sump adaptor - $500 single plate clutch - $500-$700 (rough guess) tensioner - ??? gt3040r turbo - $1300 or so second hand tomei head oil restrictors - $20 wastegate - $600 and i already have all the cooler piping, a greddy type r bov, gtr cooler, power fc djetro ecu, gtr enlarged 9L sump with baffles, full 3.5" exhuast. i worked out for a cheap setup im still lookin at $4000 + the turbo and thats with all the bits i already have lying around. im sure ive forgotten half the stuff but thats the basics, so i'd say $5500 is a good estimate