blind_elk

The difference is more like 5% (21 is 1 more than 20, ie 20 + 1/20 * 20, and 1/20 = 5%). Fortunately, the speedo will now read higher than reality, so far less likely to get photographed.The error in mine, having gone from a GTS4 to a Stagea (4.083) diff, is roughly 7%. But mine reads under the real speed - caution, Will Robinson!

I think its "C34"

Physically, it's a straight swap. You will need a half-cut to get the loom and ECU to suit the engine.

Look up the businesses under "speedometers" in the Yellow Pages. Apparently they can re-calibrate the speedo with a "black-box" converter / adjuster. Steve, what's the P/N for the Stagea's drive pinion?

But I think you will find that the front end will rattle it's brains out on the street, because there is absolutely no give at all in the pivot points (even the polyurethane have some give). ie massive increase in NVH.

I suspect you have simply blown a heater hose, and cooked the head gasket. As long as the internals are still OK (you'll find out once you pull the head), I wouldn't go further than the replacement head gasket and water hoses.

It's a 33 - I understand they have electric HICAS (which would explain why the steering pump on my RB25DET upgrade is so much smaller than the R32's pump).

Alignment doesn't affect or cause the shimmy mxtcy is experiencing. I suspect it's a result of the spacers not having the studs properly centred. Most rims these days actually centre on the hub, rather than relying on the wheel studs to centre the wheel on the axle.

It's the R30, george. Carol, I'm not aware of anything on the net, but you can get a comprehensive Workshop Manual (genuine Nissan) from some bookshops (like Pitstop - www.pitstop.net.au) - a bit over $100.

I'm lead to believe that the scale is "x100 mmHg". So +7 is 700 mmHg, which is about 0.9 bar or 13.5 psi of boost.

Sounds pretty good. It's only about a half-hour job (even taking your time). From memory, the "maximum traction" setup is the simplest to install. NFI about Geoff's HICAS bars though (I must be one of the few Skyline owners who doesn't have a problem with HICAS!)

The wiper, the washer, or both?

Is this on the same dyno that gave you the 240rwkw?

You need to fit the boss designed to be used with HICAS.

The 'pineapples' don't replace those bushes, they basically reinforce the existing bushes. Go get the kit, and you'll see how they fit (it's a DIY job).

Look in Yellow Pages under "speedometers", IIRC. There's 1 in Ringwood, charges $175, and one in Glen Waverley, charges around $270. Might be others in your area as well. Frankly, I'm not convinced it needs recalibration. I reckon you have to have somehow damaged the coil spring that controls the speedo needle - no amount of calibration will fix that.

I'll tell you up front - this guy doesn't appear to be that cheap, but he is GOOD. Then, you only get what you pay for. Michael @ Holloway Panels in Bayswater. He resprayed my rear wing ($250 from memory), and my new front bar ($500, including fixing it up and strengthening it a bit). (I can't find a photo, but if anyone knows Dayle from (once) Nispares, Michael did his R32 in the R34-blue)

Adjustable strut tops only work on Macpherson strut style suspension, where the stub axle is (effectively) connected directly to the strut top. If the R34 is anything like the 32, then it uses double wishbones, and the strut top only holds the shock absorber in place. You need to be able to adjust the wishbones (usually the upper one) to affect camber. Easiest done (but not easily done) with something like the Whiteline camber kit (set of eccentric bushes for the upper wishbone). Simplest to compromise with about 1 deg neg for both track and street.

Have one from the RB25DET upgrade. $100

I'm with Duncan. Bought one over 20 years ago (couldn't find one to hire). Never looked back. Where can you get one - Google "warren brown torque" you'll find lots.

Offer is always there - just might have to wait until next weekend now. One evening (except Mon / Tues) might be OK.

Never had any problem with CAS, except the plug tried to fall off once. You've got everything there, including the camwheel cover?

Shouldn't really be any difference, because you are having to turn the halfshaft into the diff - doesn't matter if the pads are back or pumped up.

Not quite sure where you're coming from. If you're concerned about getting the crank pulley bolt undone, do that first. The simplest way is to set it up with a breaker bar just resting on the passenger side chassis rail. Give the starter a tweak, and the bolt will be loosened. You can still use the crank bolt to rotate the engine and set it up at TDC - you won't tighten the bolt that much before you actually remove it. While its all apart, cams aren't going anywhere.

I wouldn't worry about changing the coolant just yet. When you turn the A/C on, does the little fan out the front also turn on?