blind_elk

The autos come with 4.08:1 (well, that's the gearing that came with the Stagea engine I dropped into my R32 GTS4). R32 GTS4 is 4.375:1It's probably simpler with the front diff, to just replace the diff itself, rather than the whole sump. And I found that the rear diff is a slightly different shape, so I swapped the internals into the existing diff casing.

shouldn't be necessary. Just point them at the crash we had here (Melbourne) over the weekend where 4 teenagers were killed. And the cars involved ... well, it's difficult to tell they were once modes of vehicular transportation.Oh, BTW, THIS tool needs to be banned ... for life!

Doubt an impact driver will work on flywheel bolts. Flywheel bolts are generally torqued to "FT". And they probably start to almost weld themselves in with time. Try soaking in WD40. Then get a L O O N N N G breaker bar.

Bozo selling it can't tell the difference between Jap Yen and US$.

AFAIK, the GT-R has a vacuum booster, similar to the booster on the brakes, GTSt doesn't. Now, you have to bleed the master first. If you have any air in the master, you will be wasting your time with the rest of it. The heaviness of the clutch is probably because there is a heavy duty clutch pressure plate installed.

Just disconnect the CAS, so it can't signal the injectors to operate.

According to the pic of the crank pulley, the engine is not at TDC #1. So everything in the pics means nothing. Bring the crank around so the dot on the pulley lines up with the dash on the timing case. Then check the cam pulleys. They might be 180 out, so bring the crank around another revolution and check the cam pulleys.

Wonderful news to make my weekend worth while. I've just been advised that as of next Wednesday July 1, I will be without a job. My current job is in IT, working on Oracle databases, Oracle Forms, SQL*Plus. If anyone knows of suitable work please let me know via PM. TIA the visually challenged moose

They are twin filament bulbs - 1 filament for brakes, 1 filament for tails. Just because the brakes work doesn't exclude the tails from not working. The bulb should have 2 "knobs" on the base. They mate against the 2 "knobs" in the bulb holder.

Well, you STILL haven't confirmed that you actually have axle tramp. It seems no-one has actually seen what is happening when you get "axle tramp". You have only felt something going on. I just can't believe that brand new Bilsteins and springs are incapable of controlling the vertical motion of the rear wheels.

Back to the question - the problem is the loose nut holding the wheel.

It's bad enough when they do it in separate areas, but in the same area ????

And how about only asking the question ONCE

Which f*&^%$g cylinder? There are numerous threads on how to diagnose this problem.

Battery

It's not a quick / simple answer. It will depend, amongst other things, on: manufacturer synthetic / semi-synth / mineral hot / cold viscosity specification. And finally ... is the pressure sender behaving itself.

Are they the same carbies as on the Prince Skylines?

NGK website (and I'm pretty sure the cattle-dog) says 5s for a (stock) RB25DET.

As you increase the pressure, you will increase the overall stiffness of the tyre, which will contribute to the ability of the tyre to get you around a corner. But, you will also decrease the contact patch area of the tyre. There comes a point where the added stiffness is overcome by the reduced contact patch, and the car no longer likes to go around corners. If anything, you need higher pressures in the front tyres - this will have the effect of reducing any understeer. For your setup, I would recommend 38 front, 36 rear for general road use. But maybe check what the manufacturer recommends, and then basically ignore it. Add at least 2psi to what the manufacturer recommends, making sure you still have more pressure in the fronts. In the wet, ADD pressure (about 2psi or so) - what this does is hold the tread in a more open configuration, allowing the tyre to more easily pump the water from beneath the tread.

I would be looking into the possibility of a collapsed cannon internals.

Amazing - nothing in the sticky FAQ about checking ignition timing! It as been covered - numerous times. Either: use the wire loop attached to the ignition module (be wary of some timing lights that "double" the reading) or insert a plug lead between the #1 coilpack and the spark plug, then measure as you have been used to (more accurate)

The oil pressure senders in Skylines are a bit suspect, and may not necessarily indicate the true oil pressure. Although the gauge may show 0 (or close to it), unless the "oh sh!t" light comes on - seriously 0 pressure - then I wouldn't be overly concerned. As the temperature rises, the oil becomes less viscous, ie it becomes "thinner". Because it is thinner, it can more easily squeeze past all the restrictions - bearing clearances, etc - so it doesn't require as much pressure to force it through the engine. Hence the "loss" of pressure once the engine is up to operating temperature.

New fuel filter? What fuel pressure do you have?

Does the PFC indicate engine temperature? What temp does it say the engine is running at when "warmed up"?

Why don't you ask the people at Wolf? www.wolfems.com.au