blind_elk

Try replacing the fuel filter.

Call them again, ask to speak to one of the managers. Plebs can't override what the computer says, managers can.

B4 you get new tyres, just try swapping F->R, see if the problem goes away. (if it's a size thing, it should)

What colour is the sensor probe when you take them out? If they are black, it may be that you are driving far too vigourously (ie RICH) and coating the sensor in carbon so it doesn't sense correctly.

The main pitfall is retaining ATTESSA. If you are going for an aftermarket ECU, get a PnP GT-R version.Other than that, it is a simple bolt-in proposition.

I suspect he's actually talking about a crushed chassis rail. (surprisingly, the rails have goos torsional strength, but absolutely no compression strength). I drove mine, even on the track, with a crushed rail. Only got picked up on a RWC inspection. It's probably safe to leave it as is. A good crash repairer can fix it.

In the majority of cases, that would have pointed you to the solution.Are you running "factory" ECU, or aftermarket?

DJM Automotive 8 Evans St Burwood East 98082590 Tell him Greg sent you

The sensor is where it is because the ECU needs to know the temperature of the air at the closest point to where it goes into the cylinder, so it can calculate properties of the air. If you move the sender to a cooler spot, then the ECU will be deceived about the air, and will incorrectly fuel the engine.

Daniel @ DJM in Burwood East will treat you right.

Doubt it (refer latest HPI)Isn't 98 a bit hot for "cruise", ie low load? That would suggest a problem with the water pump - occasionally the vains rust away and it can't circulate coolant as efficiently.

Best case you've bent a valve. Worst case, you've also punched a hole in #1 piston. Pull the head back off, tell us what happened.

Is there going to be a laptop available. I have a DVD (one of those "Ignition" ones came with HPI) with a bit of R35 GT-R on it.

Did you actually inspect the plugs you removed? Did they look fouled?I had a similar problem. I replaced the coils anyway (they were original, I thought they were the culprit). While I had access to the plugs, I pulled them to check condition, and noticed one plug was wet with what I thought at the time was oil, but I think now was only petrol. Gave it a clean, haven't had a problem since.

Water temp sensor. Cold Start Air valve.

Just briefly, based on my own experience fitting the Stagea engine: The Stagea diff ratio is different to the GT-R (4.083 vs 4.111) You can either swap the diff from your RB20 into the Stagea engine, or swap the Stagea rear diff internals into your R32 rear diff. I initially did the front swap, then later swapped to the Stagea set (RB25 just has too much torque to require 4.375 gearing). If you run Stagea gearing, replace the speedo drive in the gearbox with the GT-R item. I'm almost certain that the Stagea sump is not a simple bolt-up to a RWD RB25. The original R32 gearbox seems more than capable of handling the torque. When mine was first tuned (Wolf 3D v4+), I was pushing 180 awkW (easily in excess of 200 rwkW).

I honestly don't think you understand at all the reasoning behind thermo fans. Air flowing through the radiator due to the forward motion of the car is ordinarily sufficient to maintain the temperature of the coolant to the thermostatted temperature; fan or no fan. Thus, in the majority of the engine's "on" time, any form of fan is superfluous. It is only during times when the motion of the car is insufficient to induce adequate airflow through the radiator that supplemenatry air flow, by means of some sort of fan, might be required. It is only really required when the temperature of the coolant (regardless of where it is measured) is more than, say, 10 C above the thermostatted temperature. You completely neglect the role of the water pump in continually circulating coolant (once the thermostat opens) from the radiator into the engine block and head, where it removes excess heat from the metal of the engine. If the fans are able to maintain 60-70 C (in an engine thermostatted to operate, like the RB-series, at around 89C), then the thermostat will be closed, and no coolant will be able to enter the engine block and head. Frankly, I doubt you will be able to name a single manufacturer who fits thermo fans as standard, and sets them to operate permanently. They only ever come on when the coolant temperature gets to a certain level above the thermostat temperature.

First off, waste of time and energy to shift down when coming to a "nice and calm" stop at lights. Anyway, back to the problem; when you are off-throttle, the injectors shut down. When you get to something like 1200 rpm, they start up again. Do you think it's happening in this rev range? Maybe wear and tear in the drive line is accentuating the pickup of the injectors.

Why don't you just compare the new Bilsteins to what is already on the car to determine which is front and which is rear?

Check: Cold Start air valve Injectors (cleanliness) (ECU) temperature sender.

Pretty much a waste of time, if the injectors are already dirty. And if the engine has been sitting around for a while, who knows what condition they are in?

Taking ages to spin up is probably due to timing too retarded, so that maximum combustion pressure occurs after TDC. Using a timing light on RB-series engines has been covered numerous times. Did you get the injectors cleaned before you installed the engine.

If you can get 0 (atmospheric pressure) on your boost gauge, then the turbines are spoolling up in the exhaust gas stream. If BOTH ex wheels had shattered, you would be running a N/A setup, and N/A engines cannot get to atmospheric pressure (they always run in vacuum). Somewhere in your intake system, a connection is opening up as the system hits boost, dumping the boost pressure.

So, you've disconnected each coil and determined that nothing changes when you disconnect #1? And you need to do a proper compression test, with a gauge. "seat of the pants" measurements are useless as a diagnostic tool.

Hope you haven't bent a valve when clamping the head back down. How much compression is "missing" (compared to other cylinders)? Have you isolated which cylinder is running crappy? have you checked that you haven't bent a pin in one of the coil pack connections?