khunjeng

chill out mate. In many cases it does. Internet diag. is a hit and miss affair and they are only giving advice. .

would you like to detail ur testing more? pm if u like. id be intrested.

yes I think we know that now...that whats happens when u drink and read. Anyway its all good now.

been said 1,000,000 times. IN VIC u r only allowed 1 intake mod. So u choose, FMIC or Pod. Hence why we have discussion on the stock box. A turbo upgrade is a intake mod. Another reason why hi-flos are a good choice.. Oil Pods are illegal.

bolts sheered? old or low grade?

mate it wasnt about urs. Read all the posts and u will see its the dyno posted. Either way...I think urs (and mine) is Calculated fly wheel torque as the long winded posts above explain...lol. was fun, i learned something. so chill out.

LOL - I worked out what the deal is...I'm calulating Fly torque...as is calculated by thr power...I think u might have said this before, soz mate. My formula holds...but to get Torque at the wheels multi by the final drive...in my case I think its 4.1 in 4th so lets say 440*4.1=1800Nm I wont include losses as the KW atw has already factored this in which was used to get the torque...seems a roudabout way to get there...but if u do need to, u can do as u did and use 30% as a guess. I guess with a roller dyno u need to factor in the rolling radius of the tyres...I think u need to divided by 2.

speed...RPM...blah its all maths and can easily be derived. RPM makes much more sense for ppl who are used to SI units...speed means not much to me on a dyno, but again its just calulated. Horsepower is a measure of force in newtons/pounds against a distance in meters/feet for a time period of one second. The distance per second of a rotating object would be the circumference of an arbitrary arm connected to the object (=2.p.r) multiplied by the number of revolutions in one minute divided by 60 (seconds in a minute). And thus horsepower equals to: F.r.2.p.RPM/60 = T.2.p.RPM/60 = 550 lb.ft/s or 745.7 Nm/s Hence the formula in English units for power is: Power [HP] = T [ft.lb] . RPM / 5252 In SI units power is expressed in Watt = (T [Nm] . 2p . RPM/60) (1kW= Watt/1000) Power [kW] = T [Nm] . RPM / 9549 Power [HP] = T [Nm] . RPM / 7121 kW x 1.341 = HP This formula IS NOT MINE...use it and see for urself on ur dyno sheet. As for the wheels and engine stuff?? lol where do u think RPM comes from? the engine on a chasis or hub dyno? lol Speed in KMPH can easily be calulated mate...its all maths. Dynos with KMPH confuse me personally. As for the gear etc...your right. Will make a difference and needs to be factored in accodingly. Btw 440nm on the hubs is a lot IMO stock r33 gtst is about 200 or something...what car are u driving a XR8 ute? Seems to move my car pretty fast...

haha now 3,542,131

looks like some dodgy figures here. A few issues to consider, hub or roller etc. 900nm at the wheels is not right mate sorry to say. Toqrue is related to speed and power. KW = Torque x RPM / 9549 some dynos require you to make some assumptions about the relationship between speed and RPM. If you have a manual transmission it is possible to correlate these pretty well but if you are running an automatic the results will have errors since the convertor slip changes with load and RPM. Chassis dyno have the issue of tractive effort at the wheels. hub dyno will eliminaites inertia issues and measure torque "at the hub" consistantly (to get Flywheel torque simply divide the figure by the final drive ratio, often a number close to 4.1 for r33s) The tractive effort is obtained by multiplying the torque by the total ratio of power train and dividing this sum by the rolling radius of the driving tyres. I'm no guru...but it comes down to the setup..I guess many cbf setting it up properly dunno why. Also remember that peak power is not peak torque so when u calculate it..u get the power at the peak torque rpm. When 270rwkw my gtst was putting out 440nm All on a hub dyno. Guss what...using the above formula...using my dyno sheet....at max torque my power calc. is the same. Amazing.

heheh berin... u can get a range of finishes.. http://www.work-wheels.co.jp/wheels/index/xt7/spec.html

no mate, not many auto Saabs from the ealy 900 series. autos generally require more friction modifiers anyway.

my next door neighbour is a seller of this product fro years and has used it in the Saabs for ages...funny enough they have gone though more GBs than any ppl I know. Considering their have low power outputs...I always thought there was somthing suss. Do an oil or UOA test after 5000km and see how its performing...if it all; looks good then there do another at 10,000. if no dramas and the oil is still going strong then probably not doing any harm. I dont belive subjective tests and personal opinions...generally they are biased esp if ur selling the product..and LOL and the Roil video they send out. I remember watching that in 2004 and picked so many issues up with them on that alone. But good effort for trying. I have no opinion of this..I have no proof and the UAQ results...I would have to look at them again but they was a major flaw...cant remember what is was. Similar to that of the RP tests. Intrresting to see how this sheers over time. Any reports form the guys using it from 2004?

I agree. Too much talk of 300rwkw and not enough of a decent car thats going to go the distnace and be able to dirve well. eg decent suspension upgrade will cost you 3k installed. Bilstiens, spings, swaybars, bushes etc plus install. Clutch as mentioned...for 250 or so there are plently of options. about 1-3 k installed depending on ur option. 5k of those alone which doesn't make power...just allows ur car to use what power u just made.

lol

hey mate s1.5 front grill still there?

The Ideal Gas law still applies regardless of temp. exhaust side is hot air which is opposite to the cooling at the IC which would seem fairly obvious.

cool air contracts not expands mate. Hot air expands as per the Ideal Gas law.

just get Work XT7s. hot stuff, even If I do ay so myself. hehe http://www.work-wheels.co.jp/wheels/index/xt7/view1.html

Hi Fellas I'm going to upgrade my GTST to a GTR this year so I want to get rid of my GTST. No rush to sell. Is more expensive, however its almost assumed once u buy the stock car you will spend another 10k at least over the next year, go look at Forced Induction Performance for all the people who now want more power form their GTST. Car is my weekend car. Garaged at my home in my second lock up twin garage. I do all the minor services and all major work has been done by RevZone in Nunawadding. I have added up the invoices for the mods and it comes to about 25k. The numbers are quite good for a RWD and stock internals. WIth a new turbo and upgraded internals u have all the bits to head into mid 350+ range...just its too crazy on the street for me. I would consider a swap and cash for a decent GTR...just doubt a GTR owner wants to go back All normal things like RWC, tyre tread etc is not an issue. I have had this car for 1 year and only done about 8000km. Most bits have only been on for 4000km or less. Have to say its fun to drive...and will be for some time cos it will be hard to sell. Might have to seel all bits indiv. and sell the stock bits later on. Car Details 94 GTST KM 118,000 RWC etc No issues with anything Paint job in excellent condition Car is only driven on weekends and stored on my garage (lockup) All mods you need already performed. Modifications Custom Spec Hi-Flow Turbo (APS) good for 1.3 bar (which is what its runs now) 550cc SARD Injectors Spitfire Coilpacks Bosch 040 Fuel Pump VG30 AFM XI series 7 rated NGK plugs Unifilter Pod and box and/or stock box with Trust panel filter 600x300 FMIC - gktech Apexi Dump pipe 730CFM metal cat Twin Cannon Zorst Bilstien Shockers (as in SKs GB) with King Springs ( can be lowered more if you like) WORK XT7 18x9.5 rear and 18x8.5 front - metal finish rims (coating done for me by WORK) Handcook 104s 265s on the back Endless pads + stock rotors and calipers Apexi PowerFC Apexi AVCR Custom Front Bar GTR rear wing Exedy Twin PLate Clutch - button. Runs Redline Diff/GB and Engine oil. If perform oil analysis on the car which shows it in tip-top shape. Performance 1/4 - ~12.5s Power - ~270rwkw 1.3bar @ around 3200rpm...very responsive...very quick on the street. Price Not really sure what its worth. The mods equate to around 25k including labour. I'm looking for around $20,000 mark. No rush to sell. Pics

Got NISMO ones for $45 delivered. Look great.

its all about labour...$ $50/hr say thats 5hrs of work...what is the houly rate at a workshop?

if I was cop and bored of busting shoplifters at K-Mart or going to false calls from old ladies i would go bust a few import cars like myself. pitty they cant bust more of the doof doofs that keep trying to drag me. DO THE CRIME, DO THE TIME...HAHA

AAMI wont insure grey imports mate. Just Cars will and yes its underwritten by AAMI.

its been covered a few times in the 5 pages of this post...paint it sure...but with the right stuff that wont stop any heat transfer.