khunjeng

Dont disagree. But during the test I replaced the stock box with a pod and issue does not occur at all. So therefore my point was the pipe is not the main cause of restriction as it remains constant in the test, however crap it might be . If ur gonna go to the trouble of replacing the intake...I might as well do it properly and remove all the restriction buy venting the box lid better. As for NAs...I have made about 3 setups for my NA fto. The stock box with new intake pipe got me about 4rwkw of stock...cos the stock one was so bad, the pod gave nothing...infact my testing showed slight worse results with the pod.

Personal prefernce. I will change it every year also with the good stuff maybe more sometime cos I get bored. I dont give a toss if it costs me an extra $40/50 or even $100 a year. I do UOAs on my oil and have used these to detmine what is a. a good oil and b. how long to run it unde rmy driving conditions.

Busky2k knows his stuff like trex. They might suggest the 10W40 300V from that selection. The a general all rounder and favoured in Oz. If its street car, daily driver I would be leaning towards a 5w30 300V as like the redline is HTHS and film strength is quite high for a 30wt which better cold start cSt ratings for engine protection. But ppl in Oz are scared of the "thin" oils...even though most ppl are not clear on what their requirements really are. The US OEM of choice for new cars these days is like 20wt! If ur car sees any tracks...at least the 40wt IMO.

paper is def. better. Infact many studies show the difference between K&N and the stock paper is SFA. Although I'm not 100% convinced based on my own research. What power are u running? If its low numbers I would be sticking to a paper OEM job and give ur engine the best protection..I filter is to filter...if its not doing that, then why bother. On the other hand i have seen much evidence though oil anlysis that the K&N jobs filter ok anyway and no to much Si is found in the samples. lol I have a Trust filter...and an oiled UniFilter pod. The take a look on the inside of the unifilter after 10000kms its clean as new...take a look at the otherside of K&N...see for urself. Each to his own. Paper ftw in low power apps. Once u get to a decent power level, as recently discussed in another thread, the stock box in a gtst has some restrictions itself.

suprised it was locked before I read it myself

underrated performance material. Its got the ruff surface like some jets to decrease lamanar flow as the russians reckon it was faster. Trust the US to be a few years behind. I saw a range of ply performance products on e-bay already: ply BOV...gives the woody sound ply FMIC...get the FMIC look without a defect as it doesnt actually do anything. Idea stolen form a certain Hyundai I remember at Autosalon. ply zorst....comes with a warning, didn't quite read what it said. Something about fire extinguisher.

I'm kinda over this whole a skyline guy did this/that. I'm buying an EVO...until that gets a bad name then I will buy a Hyundai.

First did u see ur engine light flashing under sersious load? on 91..thats kinda bad. You might have experieced crappy performance as the stock ECU (i assume) goes into R&R when it knocks like crazy. BP Ultimate is good stuff for the 98...many ppl have found this on many different cars. Me and some guys did exenstive testing in our FTOs between BP and Shell and BP won every time on the stock ECUs which are desigend for 100 RON in J-Land. V-Power Racing (100) really lowered my knock to mid teens in general all the time when tuned on 98...but thats kinda obvious now isn't it.

how much are we talking for this? My guys recent designed there own RB25 version which will be run up soon on rb20/rb25 convert. for a customer...I was planning to use the same design on mine...

So this means there IS a restriction with a stock box even if u replace the intake pipe ur only masking the issue. How much, dunno. But its obviously a restriction if it doesnt occur with a pod. However with the pod ur missing out on other things like colder air and pressure drop so prob. evens out in general. So you can just knock another hole in the lid of the stock box to try and fix the restriction...But I actually took my lid off on the dyno and saw the pipe still suck in a bit. So for me its: 1. New Intake pipe. 2. New Lid and snorkel to look stock. 3. No defect issues

ya I would suggest checking the install first. what turbo does it run? anyways try say 40 first and see what happens. If it under boosts keep increasing the duty until it it spot on...it may over boost then adjust it down. If it doesn't work like that something is wrong, its fairly easy to use. What are you settings for the gear/car etc under settings?

pm sent

nar Dezz thats the only gadget I dont have...next dorr buddy has one...might try and borrow it. Good to get some footage of every1.

yeah I have designed a new intake which is quite similar for the stock GTST..just need ot make it now

heheh we can be noob buddies...

noble park maccas? LOL couldnt resist.

beat me to it paul...hehe

yeah found that out...the car will nearly stall...not good for the turbo either. I will replace with a new AFM pipe but didn't have time so just wacked on my boxed CAI + Unifilter pod for the moment...1.3 bar is running nice with it On the dyno it was happening at about 235rwkw mark. As for power loss...well if there is NO air...no pwr. As for the topics of ARC boxes...for a GTST you can only have 1 intake mod in Vic...so choose between the the stock airbox and IC...we all know what needs upgrading first. 4 a GTR.. no dramas. SO in summary...intake stock setup is good for about 230rwkw....need to replace both the filter and the AFM pipe - or wotever its called, the one to the turbo. Or for my setup it was good to 0.95 bar or roughly 235rwkw - on my setup. Some ppl pms me about how I know...it was on the dyno..I saw it!

yeah not sure about the forcast with those temps and my std tyres they would melt in now time so i guess I would have to take it easy...but still will be fun. Car tuned, pulling good torque - ready for action.

just for every1s info. I ran more power up today and had an issue with the stock rubber intake hose from the airbox to the turbo. Essnetially under hi load the rubber would collapse...obviously the air box was restricting this too much. I replaced the box with a pod for the run which sorted the issue. So essentially what I deduced was the stock air box and snorkel simply couldn't supply enough air over 1bar or around 250rwkw. This is with a trust hi-flow pannel filter. Pod filter...no dramas at all. Hmm...I could replace the rubber with a al intake pipe to force suction. I think a new lid or ported stock box and bigger snorkels is in order. So there u go.

In a true LSD, i.e. non VLSD you would use a friction modifed gear oil. The GTST stock runs a VLSD so you dont require the friction modifiers. LSX90 is a LSD friction modified mineral base oil. For a VLSD..gb oil is fine. Syntrax is a high quality 75W-90 syn oil and is suitable. considering its like 1.2 litres and stays there for ages then I choose Syntrax for my GTST. Syn oil and "slippery" is a crock and its more about the oils resistance to sheer under high pressure and temps. The SAE rating will determine ur viscosity.

lol funny I saw a dood doing that on the way home today...I have to say its still sexy.

I though its just the O rings that wont fit out of the box on the SARDS. Try and use the stock o rings.

the stock afm will run out at decent power levels. for 300rwkw get a VG30 its sufficent for those poser levels and fits on quite easily as aposed ot the q45.

Heathmont ... no issues down here LOL