khunjeng

stock clutch = dead in a few weeks/months after some good launches. Also wont hold much over 1bar soon.

before u shoot ur mouth off at "dump cops" maybe u look a little closer to home. hey looks pretty good man with the tint and wheels...I'm a soft Mitsi fan with my FTO and all..hehe I rememebr dragging heaps of doods in NSW with the hire car magna...its goes pretty well actually cos its so light. For the chrome mitsi brothers of this world! My FTO...

dunno I reckon u can make a mean looking GTT and with some decent upgrades get some decent rw power out of it. If u can drive, RWD isn't a bad thing...i'm sure with the RB26 you can make some seirous power with stock internals.

I think they melt or become blocked and then u notice some serious restrictions at high rpm. A mate of mine had some hi end issues with his NA and it was the cat...replaced it, was good as gold.

yeah no problem here u go. Its not like u cant see it...its just a bit dull with the back mesh...also helps catch any big bugs LOL

I better than stock zorst will always help spool. The stock cat. eps if its like 10 years old will be about screwed. Get a good hi-flo like a Catco...I got an Apexi dump pipe and 720CFM catco. Seems to do the job.

that pipe is not suitable for stock air boxes. only pods. I asked him. prob. too long or maybe wrong angle.

my mistake. its not Al. just u a pod for now and be done with it. But after all this discussion I'm thinking about dodgying up a cheap version right now using the feed from the stock IC pipe and a hole in the lid...that would do the trick also - might go see what pipes I can get and give it a go.

have to say it looks good against the silver duco...nice one. I cbf doing all of this so installed some mesh infront of the FMIC and painted that black which has a similar effect of dulling down the look.

its not aluminium! Will be a thin steel...thermal conducivity of steel if about 3/4 less that aluminium. Couple that with a thermal foam shield (stuff u can get from clark rubber) and I'm sure its good enough for my application. I will also be replaceing the intake pipe at the same time.

nope. I just told the guys to make it. They will give me a price once done. I will have a template though which can be used to laser cut more, just needs to be bent up and welded I think.

there is air there...mainly form the engine bay and generally air that has passed though the radiator. If there is enough intrest I might sell them but it wont be cheap its not a $100 do job.

Only if ur using a std airbox. If your gonna cut and paste, cut and paste the whole story. If your using a pod, you wount have any issues with the std rubber intake. But it is a bit ghey so if u feel like making t better good on u.

hehe...nar I mean from the hot air...but would fix the issue at high power with stock intakes with the extra vent...problem is its sucking hot air only.

are u serious 20s in a magna. post pics please. bad luck...2 defects and 2 cars. damn

essentially those digrams look like what i have done...bigger snorkel, bigger lid = more air. wait for the finished product sometime. Its made to fit the stock clips and is black alminium. unless u really know ur lines u wouldn't know the difference. Justins design might as well just wack a pod in there...

lolz same people doing roughly the same stuff. why dont u guys just decide over some beers. This is how the rich get richer... Every1s suggestions seem fine. Except I see no Mens Galary Co-Ordinator. If that one becomes a required position...u have ur man. I take some many O/S ppl there I think I qualify.

how seriours are u? Some files to show ur mates or u expecting to see serious hits by ppl? Ur ISP will have given u at least 50mb of web sapce which I used for hosting my pics etc. You will have that. U can get more. However if u want serious hosting, I use Maquaree Telecom which is pretty cheap i get business grade hosting for about 2k / month including the server and apps to the OS level. Backups DR etc...

If ur going a thin oil use the GC 5W30...GC= Germal Castrol. Not our local stuff. Can buy it form a few suppliers here. Good stuff. I use a 5W30 Redline blend with a 40wt in mine...the film strength og my 30wt is higher than the 0w40 M1. The only time I would go a bit thicker is for track work where the op temps will be higher. I would also use a oil temp and pressure guage and determine what thickness is fine.

use a ester based oil such as 300V or Redline. run it for a few 10,000km OCIs and u engine will look clean as..

yup. On my auto I get about 1/3 out of mine. I actually take mine to a guy who has some special machine to "suck out" all the oil some auto service places have these. Gets most of it out aparently.

not finished yet mate. Started last week and havnt got it done. As in my post is says I'm runnign with a boxed pod setup atm. Hopefully in a week or so my fab. guys will have made it up. but it will look like the stock units. Just slightly bigger lid and bigger snorkel. They made an r32 one last week that looked good so we copied it and made it a bit bigger. As for the heating of pipes...I'm one for following the laws of thermodynamics. The transfer of heat is normally from a high temperature object to a lower temperature object. ie. ur hot pipe to the cold air. time is a factor but so are other things like thickness, temp difference etc. Its obvious some some thermal transfer occurs. How much and how much it effects ur output...dont know excactly but it must have an effect.

if ur using the ECU speed signal I though the sensor would be the same a wiring any piggyback/safc/rsm. Not quite sure what u wanna do but the Hall Effect Transducer assuming u have an IC with Schmitt triggers will give u a +/- 5V output anyway. I assume the speed cable into the ECU will be the same. This would give u a voltage output and u can interp. anyway you want. As far as I can remember they are linear devices so check some speeds and record the voltage and graph it up...would give u the conversaion. Not sure how accurate, but would be ok. Done it a few times for speedos in yachts...hallf effect transducer is the only thing in a package they usually sell for $500...IC costs me $5 at most.

PCOTY I belive form Motor mag last year..or wheels cant remember have to dig it out. I saw one not long back on some back roads past Warrendyte. I was on my way to work in the line and he gunned it. I gunned it...it was fast...but i dont thnk it totally cained it cos I kept up.

What you have proved is that the stock box is not supplying enough air. stock GTST box is restrcitive above about 230rwkw. But ur results show its restrictive everywhere. Intake pipe will collapse as the stock instake wont allow enough air in above 230 I found. GTRs dont have this issue as they feed air from both the snorkel and the wheel arch which is enough to fix the problem. If you want to run a stock box with power levels above 1bar then u need to vent the box better. I have designed a new lid and snorkel setupto keep it stock looking which should do the trick. Currently I had to revert to a Pod setup which I have boxed and covered with Heat Foam stuff. Plus I have a 3" duct from the front bar where the stock IC pipes were. When running on the dyno with the stock box...I took the lid off and tried which helped...but not a viable solution for driving under normal consitions so whats the point. Essentially u have proved that the filter element is not the cause of most concern,,,its how the air is getting into the box...the reason pods work is they free up that restriction...but have the neg. effect of potentially sucking in hot air which probably defeats the purpose. Duct it from the fron, box it up and u will be fine. However due to the two intake mod rule in Vic...I want to retain the stock air box and hence designed a new one that looks stock.