rev210

LPG . It good at providing an ecconomical alternative, for the power chase it's a compromise. You can do things to minimise the compromise but, it still stands as one. Even with LPG injection you won't get better than good old BP98 when the engines are tuned well for both. Race enviroments probably don't like the pressurised tank, they like less the fact that LPG can't get the same power as BP98 let alone C16. This does not mean to say you can't pull some great power for a street application out of an LPG system if things are matched well. The limits of power generation are quite high none the less with LPG.

Silly thread this one, and the dozens like it from yesteryear. My only experience in a R33 gtst is with 10psi boost and an exhaust you can run easy 13.8's on factory sized rubber, without touching the ecu. I had about 100kgs of work gear in the boot too. I don't see many similar modded WRX's of the 1999 vintage doing that, in fact I've never seen one do it. This includes the STi version of that era. I am talking a real drag strip not some magazine test with a g-tech. Doesn't mean to say it hasn't been done I just haven't seen one myself. Having said that... many owners of skylines and WRX's alike suffer from an inabillity to drive them well, making the argument a kind of which cars are more likely driven by people who can't really race discussion. In this case I'd say a dead heat.

The setup is same old same old. Stick a single fogger just before the throttle body butterfly (i assume you are going a single throttle body conversion). Thats really all you need for a 75 shot. The better air distribution of the Jun Plenum overcomes the mixture variations between cylinders. Couldn't be easier.

DANOOH, If I take your example then I must say the reason it doesn't follow the 'fact' that LPG cannot produce the same power is that you stated "..no other mechanical changes...." You are probably aware that the combustion and flow characteristics of LPG dictate a need for an appropriate LPG camshaft design to make it work well. If the guy did not change anything and got more power with LPG then I can only say the original config was not tuned correctly in terms of camshaft timing or something fundamental like that. Or the camshaft profile was a poor choice to begin with. A true 11:1 ratio is also outside of the optimum compression ratio for an LPG dedicated 460, it ought to be around 10:1 not withstanding a rather huge solid camshaft profile to make it work best at very high compression. I would guess the pistons in that are flat tops and not concave style which LPG works better with too. At the end of the day at least the guy can rebuild the 460 later on and get better power doing it right. If you question the guys at 'gasresearch' who make the dedicated performance gas carbies I'm sure they will tell you why they can get sort of close to straight fuel but, not beat it in terms of power for an equivelent optimised engine. Let me put it to you there are no race teams pushing the straight LPG barrow for the sensible reason that it can't produce the same power at a decent level of competition. Diesel is a different kettle of fish though.

It would work ok. But, always lower in power for the same setup against your BP98 fuel. The only reason you do this is for ecconomy. Full stop. Irespective of the system you use. It would be a complete bastard to get the hardware into the already cramped engine bay too.

Same cams can be used in the RB25de head as the RB25det.

Stock Factory GTR Camshafts (inlet & exhaust) from a 1991 Australian R32 GTR. Plus stock (non-adjustable) cam gears. In good working order. $200ono * Reason for sale: upgraded to tomei cams and I just don't need anymore junk in the shed. If interested please PM questions.

A leak is my bet. Probably occurs once a certain pressure is reached (1 bar). Go around all of the hose fittings and give them a tighten up. How did it go on the 1/4 mate?

You can get local stuff made from billet for less than tomei cams from nengun? I don't think so. Try and beat $750 for a pair.

what was so good about the chicken laksa? I find they lack enough heat chilli wise.

So what was your base timing before and after? Did you alter the timing and fuel map (assuming you have a power FC or a S-afc in the case of fuel alterations only) You can't expect nothing at all to happen as a result of a significant change in cam timing. Other things happen when cam timing is changed that make alterations to fuel and ignition necessary. Did you try advanced and retarded settings? I assume you still have the gear on mate? Maybe we can get to the bottom of this

Change the base timing to suit? You can't just slap them in and expect them to work well. I've heard of a few people who have had the same experience (r33's as well) and none of them changed anything else. On the other hand if you are ready to alter other parrameters then you'll see why they are good. If 4 degrees doesn't work then try 6, you can go as far as 8 - 10 either way pretty easy.

Just call me Disaster Dave

PRESA, It doens't make more power but, rather reduces inertia. Makes the car accelerate faster anyway so who cares? It's best if you remove the radiator. Once you have done that everthing is just an unbolt and bolt on affair. I'm sure if you have some experience working on your cars then it's too easy. If not a step by step is not going to help if you can't work out whats in front of you. There are 4 bolts holding the cluth fan on. undo them whilst the fan belt is still on (holds the pulley in place). With the radiator out this will be very easy. line up the thermo fan on the radiator so as to retain the fan shroud (you must keep this to gain the maximum cooling effect). Wire up the the connections needed and the relay ready for the thermo fan. bolt it back up and fill with coolant , remember to bleed the air out. test.

the aftermarket BOV can not and does not reduce lag over a correctly operating factory one on a stock turbo. What 'feels fast' and what is fast are often two different things. The great thing about skylines is that you don't need to spend $100 + on a new BOV to make them do fast times.

SL33KGTS, Which sensor on the manifold do you mean? and how did you hook it up?

actually Jim berry made a robot replacement daughter out of left over parts from his famous clutches. Apparently they can hold onto alot of horsepower....... (no one go there).

The blower is not as good as a well selected turbo. The only advantage is plumbing. Heat in an engine bay is a natural by product of power generation. A turbo beanie and some thermal tape fixes most of that.

You both must know the same girl......miss information

I think you got mixed up there. The metal used in the construction of the aftermarket flywheels is harder than cast iron. It is in fact the lightened cast iron flywheels with no hard outer skin left that get eaten through, that is why they explode and the chromemolly ones don't . All triple and quadruple plate clutch systems designed for mega horsepower utilise chromemolly flywheels as a part of the package not cast iron. Cast iron flywheels require 'skimming' when replacing even organic based factory clutchs. 'Chromemolly steel' never requires this. Some really good flywheel packages are even gas nitrided on the friction surface.

daredevil, I think the turbo idea is a good one. The blowers of any kind are not a patch on a good turbo setup. 1,000hp is more than the 308 is going to live with for vey long at all. I'd be aiming at a turbo to deliver around 600 engine hp. This way your going to be able to get excellent response with very minimal lag. As others have mentioned stick with the garret turbo's, more options to get the right fit.

What specs are you going to build the new 5.7 motor to?

I think I have been trying in the to say that (in the distant past) 200rwkw at 1 bar translates to 300hp at the motor or less. My speculation was about actual engine power. dyno readings are to me like peices of toilet paper when used for inane comparisons between cars. The 1/4 mile time for the Rb20 powered thingo is more interesting. I'd be more swayed to buying a turbo based on what it 'does' in the real world when setup correctly.

A lightweight flywheel is a good move. Accelleration is improved full stop. Torque decrease ----- false. Absolute rubbish!!! Can't go up hills as quick ---- false. as above. As a reccomendation go get a Ogrua lightweight flywheel or something similar they weigh 4.8kgs, the drivabillity is very good for the street with stock like characteristics. Do not lighten the factory unit. Cast iron only has strength in the outer skin. If you take enough material out you drastically weaken the unit. There are plenty of cases of these sort of flywheels exploding and causing damage and injury. There are also plenty of people going around with them who haven't had one let go but, when you consider the aftermarket ones are much lighter still and being chromemolly will never 'explode', for $500 who would argue with that.

or a 3 litre osgiken kit