rev210

ahhh the joy of the solid cam... shims. Denver, Sounds about right although the price wouldn't have included bronze guides since they cost a good $400 a set? Adding in that puts it around $1100 or so then.

I used to drive commondoors, V8 ones. I didn't have this 'attitude'. The 'attitude' belongs to the person behind the wheel. This 'attitude' in my opinion is definately more common to skyline owners these days than it was. The half a dozen idiot R33 skyline drivers who go through the round about next to my place every day at twice the speed limit reminds me of this fact. Oh and then theres the plentiful supply of wrecked insurance auction skylines that come up every week. time for us skyline owners 'to get over ourselves' before we become the arrogent stuck up fools we pretend we aren't.

Thanks steve, Any idea what the cost is roughly with bronze guides?

Looking at getting the RB26 head serviced any ideas about someone to do it in perth?

why has the head gasket been changed? Which HKS gasket is it (thickness)? What was the psi of the compression test on each pot?

Pat at mettam's is great. I have had all my cars done by him for many years, used to be Quickfit morley down the road for those who might remember that place but not Pat. You will be amazed at how little he charges for the best quality work money can buy.

NIB is right on the money. The tuner is the weakest link in the ECU choice pick one your preffered tuner is good with and you will most often be happy with the result.

The Power FC does very well for the money, so well you might as well go the whole hog and by an autronic or motec if you need more. Ant over here in perth runs probably the highest horsepower street GTR in Australia, uses the power FC dejetro.

we should have a forum rule that bans threads like this and others that start "....whats wrong with x car drivers...." The thing is if you take an idiot and put him in a different car he is still an idiot. It has been proven that idiots may be found in many if not all types of car. Why not a thread titled " whats with all these idiots driving on the roads? ". OR Title the thread ; Whats with all the idiots starting threads titled " x car drivers are idiots..." Sorry morgsj50, Your thread is a classic idiotic one, we all have our moments too.

as mentioned keep under 1bar. Don't go upping the power level through bolt on turbo's etc. An old motor is a ticking time bomb with more power you are speeding up the clock.

the 2,000hp shaft is $200 US more.

bilbo117, ask www.acpt.com. They do make them to custom requirements. 9krpm, that price is the mine's/trust spec off the shelf type.

mashrock, get your measurements together, perhaps email ACPT directly to get their requirements?

Ok I thought I had better get this thread back to the forefront again as I am put in the position of spending my cash on a rebuild instead of this lovely item for the time being. I am happy to help someone who would like to take up the 'group buy' batton to introduce them to ACPT. $2100 delivered is cheap. As a side note you might be interested in the fact that Carbon fibre shafts are used by pretty much all Pro-Stock drag racers for the basic reason that their 60ft times and overall 1/4 mile times are faster. PM me if you would like to get a group buy on the go.

appologies if you have been slurred in any way. Not having a go. I am going to delete my posts about this since it causes you to take issue. I would like to strongly reccomend you investigate why many and various forms of motorsport take the trouble of doing this and the reasons why (it is easy to find them with a little google). You will find dyno comparsions before and after and even the physics behind it. I have done this to my cars for many years and I do so knowing that the power is increased. Lets just say that I don't know why but, I have more than ample proof that it does. I'll leave it to you to be the one to explain it , since you are keen to do so and I am not.

I had a rotor period in my life back in the day and I used exhaust tape back then without issue (I used it correctly). However even back then my own brother wrapped his headers on his 13B bidgeport in his usual haphazard way and had them crack to bits in less than 6 months. I rewrapped a new set of headers for him and they never cracked again. Even after years of hard use when the car was sold the headers were actually in good nick. The real reason is more often due to over rich mixtures up the top end , rotors have very low tollerence to pinging and so tuners can run the peak very rich (mostly the carbie boys are guilty here) and this will wear out headers with or without tape. The old solution was to use very thick guage steam pipe tubing. NASCAR teams have used the stuff for years, even in that arena there are scaremongering HPC coating companies that try to make out that the header wear on those cars is due to thermo tape when its actually the unburnt fuel going through them and combusting inside that does it. Think about the rally cars and the antilag feature they use, that definately does wear things out real fast. This is also true of diesel turbos or even headers where the mixtures are set way too rich in an easy chase for greater power. The late burn thorugh the exhaust valve pushes the egt through the roof. At the very top end race teams don't really care too much if the headers or turbos need replacement every few meets. So it's really more of a warning about antilag and afterburn. Thermo wrap is fine and good.

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discopotato03, Clever very clever.

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Or if you think about it most of us know to 'cool down' our molten hot turbo engines after a good thrashing regardless of turbo beanie. When you do this because the turbo isn't being shlacked into glowing redness it cools down rather fast thanks to oil and water circulating through the bearings. Basically if you wanted to measure the minimum time you had to cool down the turbo the turbo beanie would add a few more seconds or perhaps none, but if you are allowing only for the minimum in the first place you are a bit silly. Of course we aren't silly so we cool things down to be sure to be sure and that is quite enough time for the oil not to turn into coal in the turbo bearing beanie or not. A simple way to put it is that the exhaust turbine housing is not designed to be a heat transferer to be rid of nasty hotness away from precious turbo bearings.In fact being made of cast iron it's quite possibly the worst thing to ever use if it was supposed to do this, which it isn't. This we leave to the 'water-cooled' and oil cooled features of the turbo notice how the turbo makers are always crapping on about it in their brouchures? I'm pretty sure I'm right about this but, my desciption may not be correct. I am really only having a go at trying to explain why I have absolutely no experience of what people are talking about with this turbo beanie = bearing failure. I've never seen or heard of it or experienced it myself, and I guess I can't see why either?

If you ceramic coat the turbine housing you usually do the 'inside' of it too, the coating acts as an insulation. Bearing heat soak, is not an issue.

Dude, who turns their engine off straight after flogging it? A few minutes of cool down as per any hard driven turbo will see the temps drop enough to keep things alive. Add this to the fact that I have never had any experience or have even heard of turbo bearings dead as a result of a turbo beanie.

I usually spray the paint over the top of the wrap too as DEI suggest. DEI is my tape of choice for the markings. Ceramic coating commersial style is better than the VHT for thermal sheilding, the VHT is if you don't have the extra dollars to do that as well.

Thermal wrapping as I have said in many a thread is great as long as it is done right. Coating the pipe with a ceramic based coating is a great idea before wrapping and it's very cheap at the level of the ceramic coating thickness just providing for anti-corrosion. The stuff to use is VHT flameproof in 'flat white' it is the only colour that has the ceramic pigment and will live happily under the thermal tape. thermal tape always gets its bad wrap (pun) from people who didn't take the time to do it right. Cast iron must be very evenly coated and well sealed to ensure cracking does not occur hence why the thermal tape guys reccomend against wrapping cast iron manifolds since they are often not 'round' enough to have the tape even.