rev210

do both if you can afford it. For those with room in the backyard for an old oven or kiln you can buy the exact same ceramic coating stuff in tins and do it yourself. Search on google, there is a site in the US that makes this stuff. The performance gain comes from retaining the thermal energy inside the pipe. If you can retain the engery in the pipe the velocity of the gas increases as it has more energy. Cast iron is better than mild steel uncoated in this regard. Quite a good idea to coat the exhaust turbine housing and then turbo beanie it too.

Has this got oil/water pump/sump? also is it the bigger r33 oil pump drive? Cheers Dave

yes revs rule so throw away these RB motors and fit a motorbike engine!!!! Aaaaand (for Roy) there are plenty more bike engines with far more winning pedigree than any rb motor

using factory airbox with more power than that.

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rb30 crank = just as good as a standard Rb26 one, neither are fully counterweighted. In the case of the Rb30 unit it's less of a problem since you don't have to rev it as high as the RB26 to make the same power.

davies craig 16inch will sit inside the factory shroud with very little grinding of the plastic.

was that 'cold' or 'hot' compression?

yep once they start to go it all goes down hill pretty quick. Checked my No 3 again the other day it's down to 100psi. Blow by like puffing billy. Thanks to a blown turbo ceramic dusting the bore, all the others are a nice 150+ even.

Missing 'the true spectator' from the pyramid. He sits at the top using us as his entertainment, paying to see us 1&2) get busted by the cops. 3,4,5,6) crash or chuck a tantrum at the side of the road while another competitor tries to runs us over.

Roy, You ask me a question and I'll try to answer .You wanted to know about drag racing and boggin down I only mentioned an example for that. The pro-stock example I mentioned that runs 7.40 is naturally aspirated 540cui via a tunnel ram and twin dominators, had a powerglide 2 spd. There are plenty of other racing categorys where carbon shafts are used exclusively, most competitive racing at a high enough level of engineering will see these in everything in that competition, from circuit 2L to NASCAR, forced induction and NA. How many other racing categorys do you want me to meniton? As for the GTR,Way back in Group A racing of the R32 internationally saw the use of carbon tailshafts in the pursuit of faster times. It's reduced inertia benifits are far greater in the circuit environment. Mines didn't get a shaft put into their parts line up for subjective or bling factors (you can't even see the thing). Nor did the guys whack a carbon shaft into the Veilside Drag GTR for those reasons. They are only two profile companys with examples I know about there are probably alot more. When I get around to installing mine I will do a dyno before and after detailing the time taken to accellerate to a given rpm in gear. I have seen info on this done with a flywheel and clutch change over to lighter weight and the results are quite impressive. Something else to consider Roy is that the EL or later? ford falcon tailshafts are alloy and may be able to be cut down in length to suit you conversion, you would need to confirm the strength of these on the ford forums but, I have heard of someone utilising one on a smaller race car with good results some time ago. Sadly I can't remember where I saw it, perhaps google? I am keen to help other owners get onto a good thing and equally keen to steer clear of money wasting. If you saw the state of my GTR you would know how much of a cheap bastard I am

We best leave the pocket book physics aside I think. As I suggested earlier there is more physics involved than what we have been talking about. Especially the tailshaft. Mik you forgot to include the length of the tailshaft and the forces involved when trying to rotate it by one small area of the tip Like I said, if you want to know more of the science ask someone who really knows (not me). I can tell you that for $2k you will be getting better bang for buck than some standalone mods for engine power of the same price. Remember that for the $2k you might spend on the engine power upgrade you will end up increasing the ongoing running costs of the car by a proportional amount to the power gain. Now for a 'reality check'. This is the part where I give you some real world proof. RE:Bogging down/launching: Pro-stock drag cars are one example I can think of off the of of my head that use a carbon tailshaft,all the NHRA cars in the US run them because there is alot of money in the sport at that segment and above and therefore propper engineering behind that category The one instance locally can I remember in pro-stock (still sort of a thing backyard guys can do here in australia) a guy dropping time off his 60ft and overall et by switching to a carbonfibre unit, . Not exactly what you call bogging down at a 60ft of 1.06 and a 7.4 second 1/4mile. Now for the GTR example; I can tell you that the inertia reduction is the ratio of (0.57:1.00). The center bearing is made redundant also making for a more instant power delivery to the rear axle.The GTR people who have actually fitted these things 'rave' about them even the ones who already have built engines with bucket loads of power, presumably because it compensates for the lag, however there are guys with hardly laggy setups with the same attitude. Think again.

Nah. I reckon a nice average power 160rwkw from 4000rpm to 7000rpm will cut a high 12. The old R33 did 13.3's @106mph 2.3 60ft with that power. A 2.1 60ft would have nailed a 12.9 pretty easy. Thats a car with that average power and a peak of only 175rwkw. 205 tyres too.

Mik, Accellerate without more power you are saying no? I think there is a little confusion here. Mass is a part of the equation. If we lessen the mass and apply the same power to it's accelleration it takes place faster.If the same engery is used and 'conserved' in the equation when mass is reduced, accelleration (over a delta T ---- remember it's meters per second per second) or velocity (moment-------meters per second) is increased to give the same value in a blunt expression. Variations of this sum occur according to round and round or linear motion but, pretty much thats what happens. Tailshafts are hollow too, this means the outer edge contains the mass, the middle is air. Then there is the twisting forces on them which the flywheel doesn't have to cope with etc.... Propshaft wise it seems that there is more complicated equations involved than the simple approach we would taken. To save headaches on this thread I suggest that you email the guys at www.acpt.com they are the aerospace company that make the shafts for Mines and others. All I can comment on is the experience I have had over the years making bits lighter and going faster as a result. The fact that people have trouble 'getting it' has meant I end up going quicker often in the same vehicle with less money spent and less power. Like people really ought to consider 'learning how to drive your car' as a mod of great value for money. This approach may have an up front cost but, it's free thereafter. Extra power always costs you more for every second you use it.

If I win I'll burn it all. What a fire it would make! At night we could all melt engine blocks in it and sit around telling stories about small helicopters and fruit chews.

He doesn't have an oil cooler so it's normal. car requires more engine power to move the air at 110kmh hence more power = more heat. Mine has an oil cooler fitted and what you describe is still true, although it sits significantly lower in temp thanks to the movement of air.

gfb kits include the replacement of the harmonic balancer with a plain pulley. RB's need a balancer The Ross balancer is very nice, saves 3kg off the weight there too.

trust make a set for the RB26dett. Alternatively get some made out of alloy would probably cost less. UniqueAutoSport.com.au may have a set?

As mentioned you don't change the crank pulley. However yes they are worth it. Reduced inertia is always worth the bother when it comes to the pulleys. It gives increases in the 'response' of the motor. The trust set I have reduced the pulley setups weight by around 2kg. The switching over to an electric thermo fan (thermo switched) reduces this by another kilo or two as well. After that you have a gain similar to a lightweight flywheel in basic inertia reduction. What does reduced inertia give you? No horsepower gains as such, but even better a gain in accelleration. A reduced time taken to reach rpm in any given gear. Reducing inertia is the smart path to reliable speed. It doesn't increase wear on anything unlike horsepower increases. For that reason paying a little more for an accelleration gain up front is worth it because you DONT KEEP PAYING FOR IT. Most people don't understand this or have more often than not have never been told. while I'm on the topic I have a good idea that a $2,000 carbon fibre tail shaft makes for rather good value for money when you consider you are saving fuel ,contributing less wear and require no extra supporting mods to go significantly faster 0-100kmh. Once I get round to installing one I will time it on the dyno for those who's brains can't concieve of anything other than what their mates tell them about how to make a car go quicker.

Good luck with the dream mate. I got myself one of the 50 Aussie spec GTR's imported for the group A racing, nice bit of nostalgia. Recently I'd been tempted just to sell it off and buy something more practical (even posted it up in the for sale area). Changed my mind. I've started down the path of restoring the looks and mechanicals and finishing the performance package off that I have started. I think these things are best tuned to around 400hp at the treads for a great street package. With the focus more on power delivery and response. That amount or power doesn't pose too big a threat to drivetrain damage or traction issues. Nitrous is a alot of fun. The legality issue is a pain for road driving, you need a very modular setup to allow for quick and easy removal/ install. It's certainly one of the cheaper ways to enjoy occasional drag racing (at the motorplex) in your car.

SOLD

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I will add a FAQ part to the first post to address the questions like ; What about harmonics on the RB30? etc... If we can keep to the Actual experience, images and advice of those who have built and fitted the Rb26/30 to a GTR that would be good. Oh and specualtion about the OS-giken and other capacity enlargements can start another thread as this one concerns the RB30 conversion only.

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my 2c for you is start your own thread about os giken.