VB-

haha had that issue in a mates car, coz i put it in gear when i kill it, then he tries to remote start it and hilarity ensues, particularly the first time when he didnt know how to kill it with the remote (and it keeps trying to start if it doesnt get it the first time too haha)

surely in rare cases like that, if your wife was giving birth im sure you could leave the car running outside the front door for an extra minute or so... i hate turbo timers with a passion, had to many instances when working on cars after i fix something, then i start the car and hear noises i dont like and want the thing off, immeadiately! then there are those ones that are part of alarm systems etc, they decide whether or not your car needs to be run for a little longer, but i've found them all to be useless and very unpredictable, they may stay on after cruising for 2 mins down to the shops, or you can give it a good caining for an hour and it will turn straight off. i also believe they are just unnecesary. its often said that turbo timers are to let the thing cool, but i can only imagine they would be of any use if you were just thrashing it and the turbo was spinning at high speed, if you shut it off the turbo would be spinning hard with no oil pressure, but i dont believe there would be any benefit to 'cooling' a turbo this way.. (happy to be proven wrong on this one) and i dont care how much of a c*nt you are behind the wheel, i highly doubt anyone here would actually get their car up on boost when pulling into their driveway...

is it definately seized to the flywheel and not a hydraulic problem? put it in first, foot on clutch, and rock the car back and forward. should break it free. or put it in 4th, clutch in and just smash it on the starter a few times lol

yeah i took a good look over it before i put it in, springs actually seemed to be pretty secure in there, was worried they may have fallen out now tho. it does explain the biting and rattle although now the rattle has mostly gone away, its more of a grinding noise now, although even that has improved vastly with more driving. just gonna keep driving it for a bit and see what happens thanks for the help

thats the thing, while it was in the last car (current owners brother) it never had an issue. we pulled it out of his brothers car and i said its low and told him to get it rebuilt, and being that the current owner is chasing more power, we sent it to direct clutch for a rebuild, and it was them that rebuilt it with the carbonetic pads... been driving it more today, it had a serious twin plate rattle (its only a single plate clutch though) which has since subsided, engaging issue is semi-sorted and livable. only problem is the grinding and biting now. what actually does this simon? did i overheat it and sieze it to the flywheel?

jzz30/r154, just put a new clutch in it last week. was an 'extreme' clutch with lightweight cromoly flywheel. direct clutch rebuild with carbonic plates and increased clamping pressure. was setting up the two step, but had it all pretty tame. did one launch at 3000rpm, one at 3500, and two at 4000, very little slipping of the clutch though, (first 3 attempts bogged down, last one was smooth but nothing too agressive) and there was probly 5 mins of very sedate driving between each test launch. on the last one, i went for the clutch and couldnt grab second, clutch would not dissengage. fair enough, so we went and got a bottle of fluid and bled the thing for an hour, can get it to dissengage now... sometimes. its random, goes good, then shit again, bled it heaps already. thats one problem. problem two, the c*nt is realllllyyyy f*cking noisy now, especially in reverse. makes a hell grinding noise, and rattles like a twin plate when dissengaged did i overheat it and weld it to the flywheel? (heard of this problemon high hp supras in the US, not sure if 'carbonic' can be welded to chromoly) when clutches 'weld' them selves to flywheels, do they normally break off themselves when they cool down? why has it gone hell noisy all of a sudden? thanks, and happy new year guys Ben

yeah but how often does a roo jump out in front of you when your 'drifting or having fun with the car' *thread title*

answered your own question there ^

good driver will outbrake ABS.

was that the blue one from summernats a few years back? i vaguely remember it now that you mention it...

if you go far enough into the thread theres pics of his daughter lol

great boost controller, mates got one on his soarer and worth keeping IMO

this

sorry where do the nissan bits tie into this? i've heard somewhere before that nissan suspension bits bolt into late model commdores but surely thats not the case?

where is this idea coming from that the tune will change where the motor makes power? your setup will determine the toruqe curve, tune it to make sure its safe, while still making decent torque. how much power on the street? depends entirely on your ability to steer power @ track: take from a race car driver whose name eludes me atm: "you have enough power when you can leave two black lines from the corner exit to the braking point of the next corner". drag strip: you can only have too little traction, never too much hp

i'm off to the motorsport section now to sus it out

yeah i was thinking that while i was typing it, but remember (i think) someone saying it was actually from nissan... sounds more like an autech car though

guy in the UK has a volvo approaching 2mil km's last time i looked at the official guiness record, dunno how many motors it had been through though

and it will just be a light tuned rb20det.... the one pictured isnt the one in the car, its an RB30DE (26/30) bozodos, the RB26DE that your thinking of came in the skyline26, they were an R32 four-door, very limited run thing. only car ever to cop an NA RB26 from nissan

dont waste your time with the conversion. turbo the rb30. wil be cheaper, shit load less work, and you will have more power, and heaps more through the midrange.

yeah mad, i'm keen on doing one on something, havent decided what yet, have access to all the steel and a hydraulic bender (i'm a supposed to be a boilermaker lol) last one i mentioned was pre-bent kit from mac bro's racing, we just welded it in, on that note it was f*cking terrible too, although i've heard good things about them, i found the kit to need alot of work before it went into the car. was very expensive tube with some bends in it

judging by the first post, it would have to be *i just got edited because i can't help myself*? plus i know he had a container come in recently (mate of mine does quarantine on all his shit) always seemed like a nice enough bloke, although i've never bought anythign from him, hes seems to be on the straight and narrow compared to alot of other people... if it is him, his english is a bit fobby at times, maybe he came across a bit hostile when it wasnt his intention? did he offer any reason as to why it was cracked? i know alot of his stuff comes in and boxes and he doesnt open it like mentioned, because for everyone one of these cases, there will be 100 others that say 'whose been going through my stuff? i thought these were brand new/you ripped me off' not defending him in this case, just trying to understand whats happened (if it even is him lol)

ahh i see, i vaguely rememeber that thread, thanks heaps anyway

which panel beater aaron?

i wouldnt worry... just go for your target A:F ratio, EGT's should be fine at that power level... anyone feel free to jump in and correct me here