VB-

if your motors not serious enough for individual trims, i'd probly just tune it for your specific A:F target and not worry about EGT's... whats your setup consist of?

thanks heaps for that Brad. wouldnt that leave to main hoop too far back though? not sure on the exact regs, just see most people put them close to the B pillar as poosible (or is that just to hide it?). if you've got any more pics of how you do the base plates, or just a general walkthrough of the process of building a cage, throw em up too

risking, what technique do you use to get at the top of the cage? helped a mate do one not long ago, didnt want to hole-saw out the floors so we ended up using some heavy angle to box up where the main hoop meets the floor. tacked all the cage bits together then pulled the whole lot forward till it dropped down off the 'box'. how do you go about it?

that one's turbo too. despite the massive amount of quality work put into the sr20, i still like the VN powered one better. got more of a backyard feel i can relate too

pull the motor down and see what caused it first. could have been oil starvation or anything. also they said it was pinging with the fuel that was in there... how long had your mate been driving it with the new mods before he took the car to them? sure he drove like a grandma when he was trying to drain the fuel, but what about before he went to the tuner? he's just put his car back together with all those new parts, i bet he would have given it a bit of a belting when he took it out for its first drive... while it would have been knocking

how are you so sure it was them that stained the wheels? sure its not caked on brake dust residue or anything?

how much power you chasing? could just mod a factory one if your not going crazy

frequency of knock is basically determined by the motor, there is a calculation you use involving bore and something else that will tell you pretty closely to what it will knock at

F1 cars only make 900hp, top fuelers make 7000. cruise lines make 100,000+ cubes win

yeah zebra knows whats going on rb30det - cheaper with a result thats better in every way.... the bit i added on the end, is a completely different combination of parts that results around 2.4l from memory, the only reason i could imagine for doing this though is for a particular class of racing that may be restricted by capacity

^ some people still class that as 'remote' mounting, where they sit lower and further back, next to the bellhousing. really popular on the VE turbo kits

^this, looks f*cked, just like when they took the top off the 350z... 67-69 camaro ftmfw!

use RB30 bottom end /thread PS- RB20 with 26 crank comes out around 2.4l doesnt it?

MAF is Mass Air Flow, it gives no fark for pressure or temperature, it measures mass, and this is what the appropriate amount of fuel needs to be added to. when people talk about air fuel ratio, its actually measured in parts by weight (i think lol), ie: mass Galois, its not a heat sensor as such. basic way to explain it, there is a 'hotwire' through the AFM, this is basically your signal/output wire to the ECU. with no airflow, its hot and has alot of resistance (small output), as you mash it, more air is drawn over the wire which cools it, which reduces resistance (more output). this is why they work so well, you can be going flat out, running big boost, but if its really hot air (less dense, requiring less fuel) it wont cool the wire much. hot wire = ECU adding less fuel

LOL JET199, love it

*most of this applies when i go with friends to see their cars when at a shop, my work i do myself* the biggest thing that pisses me off is when they try to keep you in the dark or flat out lie to you for why its taking so long i dont mind if they are not the cheapest (easy for me to say, i do everything myself ) i dont mind if they arent the best at tracking down parts i dont mind if they take some time to work out more difficult problems i dont mind if they try to push parts etc just tell me what you are f*cking doing and dont bullshit me about it. i try not to demonstrate any indepth knowledge of cars when i first go to a shop, and because of that, i've had some pretty big name workshops spin me crap when i ask something about the car. communication has to be one of, if not the most important thing. that and any sign of pure greed shits me to know end also (although i do see the difference between pushing parts onto you and greed)

go into the software, start a new tune alter it for injectors load it up to ecu do skids .... profit??

in my experience, 3" starts to choke ~350rwkw, obviously depending on the exhaust design itself obviously, but as a general rule... edit - ^ what he said

stock cast mani big aftermarket T3 - should be able to score a decent hiflow for $500 second hand oil lines fmic custom dump pipe nistune gtr injectors. add a second standard fuel pump in parralel 2k in parts should see up to (just shy of) 300rwkw depending on the turbo you get. more than enough to fry your clutch/auto. throw in some s13 coilovers and brakes and you will have a fun as shit 'budget' built car

black absynthe > 151

does anyone know, with the 'external switch', it is a 3.5mm jack, which has 3 pics on it. does the EMU need to see continuity between two of these to switch over, or do i give 12v to one of them? if so which particular pin?

emanage is a piggyback dude..... the 'base' map is your factory ecu

yeah actual lag wouldn't be the best, most people these days refer to boost threshold as 'lag', so i responded in kind. water on turbo, its not like your spraying down a red hot exhaust housing, its a bit of water off the road, and the turbo wil be much cooler. yes alot of jap cars do have room (well the older ones do, newer ones arent so friendly), but take note of what sort of cars these systems are being applied to. dont take what i was saying as this system is ideal, i agree entirely that a traditional setup will work better, but rear mounts do have their place, and i dont think the drawbacks outweigh the loss in performance for the street cars they're typically seen on.

gonna side with lachlan on this one about the heat thing (dissagree about all cars being lean for spool though). to put it in its simplest form, heat is a form of energy, if it is all lost before it gets to the turbo, there will be less energy acting upon the exhaust turbine. that said i do have faith in rear mount sytems and they have been proven to work, and work pretty well in some cases. with correct sized turbos the heat issue can be overcome for the most part. 'lag', even with a front mount and long piping supposedly isnt all that bad from results i have seen/heard about, although i have never driven one. even so 'lag' can be interpereted in different ways, (most of which are wrong IMO) and everyones idea of what laggy is varies. but the general consensus i've found is that its really not that bad. risk of turbo damage, although increased, really shouldnt be that bad unless the turbos hanging too low, which i would call a bad install, not failure to the basic idea of rear mount turbocharging life span, turbo will be ALOT cooler if its rear mounted. the same question was also asked to an engineer from garret about reliability when they will come into contact with rain water and he laughed at the person asking it... i've also yet to hear of a cracked housing or turbo failure due to this reason. as for cost and complexity, i'd say rear mount wins hands down on both. replacing the rear muffler with a small section of pipe will be quite noticeably cheaper than an exhaust manifold/dump pipe/catback. everything else should be pretty much the same, bar the added cost of a scavenge pump. in general you can normally find some decent room under the back of a car compared to a crowded engine bay. if you can get the car in the air to work on it, it would be heaps easier *my opinion*

jzz30 soarer. liquid injection