BHDave

Just drive it nicely and you'll have no problems. Have you just run the intake direct from the turbo to the inlet? If so brilliant throttle response!

Big turbo, but i doubt it's as big as the kettle in the background

Yeah, 11.6 is pretty rich but mine did it running 11.8 at the top end. I'd be looking to bring the mixtures back to around 12-12.5 and have a good look at the ignition timing. It should really be running base timing of 15 degrees too. I reckon you'll find it's a bit of a dog with that timing. I cant really remember but i think the microtech gives you timing on top of base timing on the display. I never really looked at that when i had one, mainly fueling. For tuning in sydney you can't go past CRD in Silverwater but you will pay through the nose for it. I've never heard a complaint from anyone who has had a tune by these guys though. Also Unique Autosports in Castlehill, JEM in Moorebank, V&E Rigoli in Wetherill Park would be worth a look.

I've been wondering about the ignition timing issues when retarding the exhaust cam. If you are retarding the cam by 4 degrees than youre also retarding the cas by 4 degrees (effectively retarding ignition timing by 2 degrees?) if you reinstall it to a mark on the timing cover because the locating pin will be retarded in relation to the cas cover when reinstalled. Basically you base ignition timing will now be set to say 13 instead of 15 btdc. Does that make sense? I'm struggling to explain what i'm thinking here.

Sorry Stu but i have an R32 which definatetly has separate coil and ignitor. Nice to know the blowthrough setup works, always wondered about it after seeing a mates GTR using blowthrough.

The 2.5 inch exhaust may be hurting your figures a bit but if it's tuned right and a healthy engine you should be getting anywhere between 150 and 160rwkw As a reference mine made 164 on 12psi stock computer, pod, 80mm turbo back exhaust, 400x300x60 frontmount with 16 degrees base timing, in shootout mode.

Sure you can run 0 boost. wire open the wastegate. Kind of defeats the purpose of buying a car with a turbo though as you will have a car that drives worse than the average excel.

Apparently the coil pack problems can be solved by putting a rectifier diode in line with the outgoing ignition signal. Theres a bit of information here but you'll have to go trawling: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/emanage/ It mainly affects r34 and s15 which i have been told have coil and igniter on plug (is this true?). My coils haven't died yet but it's only been a month

Nothing to worry about. It won't damage anything. Either block of the stocker or take out the HKS unit though as they will more than likely be opening at different pressures and doing funny things. Easiest is to just make a blanking plate for the stocker that sits underneth the bov. That way it looks stock if you ever get pulled over for an inspection.

Make sure you have some kind of vent on the can if you are plumbing up both hoses. If the system is sealed then you will pressuise the sump (which isn't good). You are better having the catch can venting back into the intake pipe as it is less likely to be defected and the car wont stick of oil when you are on boost. dunno about the idle issue though

If you can get one for the equivalent of about 1500 bucks then it'll cost between 8-9k landed and registered. 1500 bucks still doesn't get you much so you have to look pretty hard. The really good ones go for alot more. But you now have the extra bullshit that was brought in a couple of weeks ago that bits of the air conditioning have to be removed before it goes on the boat so basically add 200-300 to get it here and 400 to fix the aircon when it arrives

It's a bad idea to mess with the gaps on platinums too much as it damages the coating i have heard. It may just be that the mixtures are too rich. Stock copper replacement are NGK BCPR6ES-11, i think they are 4 bucks ea from repco. If you want to run .8 gap then BCPR6ES are the go.

If the unit isn't getting power then you actually have no connection with your MAF sensor and that would cause the car to not want to start. It may be worth trying to find an alternate point to get power and check it that way just to see that the unit does work.

It's a fair bet the seller doesn't know what he's talking about. If it's the guy i'm thinking about he also states they'll fit sr's and ca's.

Some people have stated that it may be the Oxygen sensor in previous threads on this topic. Can't say it'll work because i've never done it myself

Tight enough that the wheels don't fall off, not so tight you cant get a wheel off with the factory tyre iron when you get a flat. Put the wheel on with the tyre iron, not a torque wrench nad you shouldn't have an issue

The resistor pack is just a single ceramic and metal monstrosity with 6 wires running in and one wire running out.

Yep, all parts can be bought separately. The upgrading of the spring i'm talking about will likely only be a maximum of 30% or so using the stock pressure plate. On my last car i actually upgraded the spring and used a stock type replacement full face clutch plate. You will maintain better driveability with this combination than with a sprung button clutch plate and a stock pressure plate for a marginal increase in pedal effort as the organic plate will have a softer take up and can be slipped like a stock clutch. I drove the car daily in traffic with no problems.

You can run the standard pressure plate with an upgraded clutch plate no probs. Though the friction material and plate configuration is only one part of the whole equation. If you get your standard pressure plate recoed at the same time you change the clutch plate (recommended, it's only a couple of hundred bucks after all) you may even be able to get a heavier spring installed in it for not much additional cost and have a stronger overall package.

Nope, not really. Slightly less rear end grip on corners, near enough to the same when taking off, You can rotate the tyres and get a longer life out of em. Wider rears will also reduce grip slightly in the wet. Only things i can think of either way really. 8s aren't a bad size either consitering the stockers are 6.5 wide all around.

You may have the ball valve issue that i mentioned in my earlier post. If you remove the ball and the car still has probs then you can put it back in. It's an easy check.

Nah, I wish, the 3 in the console came out of a mates car when he sold it so i got them on the cheap, mainly because i wanted the oil pressure as the factory gauge is a bit intermitent. The boost and af meter were out of my old car and i wanted to know what was happening with fuel mixtures when i started winding up the boost. Af gauge is really an indication only but if it's anywhere but full rich when i put my foot down then i know to back off.

Funnily enough, theres a bit of development work you forgot to mention. Bolt a turbo off a truck onto your car and pay the price. A Trust isn't just a rebadged Mitsubishi turbo, it is a high output car turbo based on a truck core and covers with different comp and exhaust wheels. And OHR-30T a 400 hp truck core isn't ging to flow 400 hp once you cut it down becauses power, whether it's form a 2L or a 10L engine is based primarily on airflow (and efficiency) and once you remove half the cores it's only a 200hp core simple as that. 400 hp requires 400 hp worth of air, you may find theres a 20% difference in engine efficiency between the two engines so the half cut down core may actually be able to make about 220hp on a 2L. Still not great.

Yeah but one side of the exhaust housing is bolted to the manifold so rotating it won't adjust the engle the dump comes off at because they are fixed in relation to each other by the exhaust housing.

R32 Vspec 1's use a sumitomo caliper and a slotted disk. Also the disk is 10mm bigger than an R33 GTS25t disk. I know cos i have a pair on my 32 GTS-t Vspec 2's have the Brembos. I don't know too much about the disk though.