swanny180

I have some Motul dot 5.1 waiting to go in Will let you know how it is once I start using it

Used one on my 180, didnt have any dramas with it Adjustable so easy fitment and yeah Id recommend them for the price

Hahahaha you watched the vid with all the rally car stacks on the corner huh?

Damn, youd have a sore ass after landing that!!

Fark thats not bad... 'Launch de car, launch de car!!' Hahahaha

To be honest Im not sure myself... I think I use a mix of single and double clutching when Im heel-toe downshifting when driving spiritedly... If its a normal downshift I will almost always double clutch. But yeah, when giving it a bit of stick you dont always have a lot of time (obviously) so sometimes I think I just single clutch? One thing Ive noticed watching the pedal cam in Japanese clips (option, BM etc), is that a lot of drivers in those clips only single clutch when downshifting.

Wow, that was awesome!! Would love to see that in the flesh

Hey Sidd, a retrofit is basically using a stock HID from one car in another one - ie making it fit somewhere it wasnt originally designed for. Pretty sure theres a DIY on an R32 with BMW angel eyes?

Sorry to hear mate, most important thing is that youre ok

Hahaha gold thread

That had to have hurt...

Mate, dont even think about spending a cent on buying management/boost controllers/anything else at this stage, its simply pointless. Get a dyno run mapped against boost pressure, then figure out where the problem actually is. Youll be able to see rpm vs boost vs power, and get an idea of whats actually happening. You might find boost doesnt build untill very late for a stock turbo (say 4000rpm), then makes reasonable power to redline (say 200kW). This would indicate that theres probably a problem with the actuator, or perhaps a boost leak from a cooler pipe. You might find boost builds at a normal rate (ie 12psi by ~2700rpm), but power is poor until higher revs. This would indicate its more likely a problem related to timing (possibly physical crank timing, possibly in the tune). Basically, you wont know what you will find though, till you actually get it done. For around $50 its gonna save you a lot of hassles whilst troubleshooting, and youll most likely find its something quite simple. No point spending a few hundred on an EBC to find that the tune is rubbish, and no point spending a few hundred on a PFC and tune when your turbo wasnt making boost till high rpm... Trust me, youll get much better advice and a lot better understanding if you have a dyno graph to help you understand whats happening Let us know when you get one done!!

Im selling a set of 18' 4x114.3 rims, Ill send you a PM with the details

Bolt in job huh?

Dude, do you have any idea how much bigger your e-penis just got when you typed that shit?! ... Back to the topic, I think the reason has basically been touched on here by a few people... 1 - The 206kW power restriction. Yes I realise it wasnt policed heavily, but that would partly be because when it was broken, it wasnt broken by huge amounts. If someone made a 350-400kW car, Im sure they wouldnt have overlooked it as easily. 2 - Costs. To build and sell a very high powered car, it becomes reasonably costly, in terms of R&D, when you aren't planning on selling too many. Also, when you can buy a GTR with 206kW for what, $150,000? when new in Japan, how on earth could they reasonably price a car making double or more power? If it was even close to the same price, absolutely noone would have bought the GTR simply on the basis they could have a car making significantly more power for not much more coin. 3 - Lack of a need. Japanese car manufacturers make plenty from selling cheaper, slower models. The Corolla is one of the best selling cars (if not the best?). Why would they spend huge dollars making a car that probably wont sell much at all given the price tag compared to the brand name you get with it, when it makes more financial sense to be improving their position in the small to medium sized car market? Its a shame, but basically there just isnt really a need for a high powered Japanese supercar and I guess thats a large part of why there isnt one. As much as we might like to think otherwise, car companies arent just there to make cars that please what we car enthusiasts might want, theyre there to make a profit. And unfortunately, regular everyday car buyers who dont want high powered supercars to drive to school, work and the shops in, are the ones in the majority

I think maybe youd be better off paying someone to tune your car for you mate... Or at very least go through the forums and read absolutely everything you can to brush up as much as possible in terms of what RB25s are capable of... Im not saying this to be a prick, just that it will be an expensive mistake if you f**k up from not knowing what youre doing...

Assuming the stud pattern is the same (which I think would be the case), the problem youll have is with clearance if your offset is too high. Trial fit the rims to check if they clear the suspension arms and brakes etc

One thing Im interested in with regards to this topic, is why the people in this thread who have an auto made the decision to get one... Because they cant drive manual Because they prefer auto (eg lots of traffic) Because of cheaper auto prices Other reasons?

Possibly have a look in the DIY/Tutorial section of the forum, think there may be a tutorial on how to flush coolant which would probably mention how much you need?

The absolute, number one best aspect of driving a manual car is the driver involvement. Simple as that. You wont find huge performance differences in stock manual vs auto R33s, it would likely be noticable but not major. Basically, it is inconsequential. If you *really* enjoy driving, get the manual. If youre driving the car in heavy traffic and dont think you could put up with a manual, consider the auto.

f**k me dead, thats one major engine failure there!! How awesome!!

Have one sitting next to me waiting to go on my 33 The quality seems reasonable, pipings a reasonable diameter, all round for the money I dont think you could go wrong. Theres definitely a difference in the workmanship between the Cooling Pro cooler and say a Trust cooler (one of which I *also* happen to have sitting in my room...), but to be honest I highly doubt it would translate to any tangible benefits between having a slightly better made/better welded core/end tanks, compared to the JJ kit. If youre going for a monster 600kW drag engine build, yeah go brand name for sure, youll want the best of everything. But for a mildly worked 200 - 250kW street car, I think a Cooling Pro kit is definitely the best choice for the money

From what I understand though the Moroso calculator is quite accurate? And you cant play with settings of a drag strip like you can a dyno either... Cant really add any 'correction' to top end MPH

Lol @ thread.

Its a boost leak from the sounds of things mate. Go over every joiner and check that there isnt a loose hose clamp/that a joiner hasnt slipped off.