Harey

A larger rpm stall converter will actually have more power loss through the auto. But yeah just by getting a good stall converter it should improve things. I used a TCE stall converter on my previous car and absolutely loved it. Was super progressive so if you are just cruising around it felt like a standard stall converter so not slipping and doing bad things but then when you mashed the pedal all hell broke loose! Instant peak torque! What does on boost at 3600rpm mean? When is it full boost? Yeah get some wider wheels and some KU36s and then boost it up!!

nice work, Trent will sort you out!!

Smart move with the 9.0 compression, I would definitely not go any less than that.

It shocks me too. So 75psi base fuel pressure, plus a 2:1 fuel regulator, so at 25psi the fuel pressure would be 125psi!! Wonder what fuel pump he ran to get enough fuel flow at such a massive fuel pressure!!?? On an old car I ran ~70 base fuel pressure with a 1:1 regulator and 16psi so 86psi and the walbro fuel pump used to whine like a mofo!! As soon as I dropped the base fuel pressure down you could hardly hear it.

Haha no doubt he will still give it squirts and race people. But most street races and street squirts involve a low to moderate starting speed and most only last 1-2 gears. Meaning that the more responsive car will jump out in front and make it hard for the less responsive but higher peak power car to come back before you run out of road or find traffic. Another consideration is traction, the GT30 will be responsive and also progressive in the way the power/torque hits so you will have maximum chance of maintain traction compared to the GT35 which will be more likely be wait wait wheelspin especially at lower street speeds. But if you are a nutcase and want to do really silly stuff on the street etc etc then go GT35 lol The other consideration is getting your setup really sorted out. You will find most cars with lots of modifications will take a number of fixes and improvements to get the most out of the turbo. A larger turbo will require more and more things to be sorted to actually reap the rewards of the larger turbo. There are countless setups that end up only running the power of a GT30 with a GT35 due to being out of budget or frustration at not being able to find the answer. This is poor as you have less response for similar top end. Whereas it will be a lot easier to get close to max out a GT30 which will provide excellent response.

Geeze thats a fantastic wrap for the kando T67! What great value standard RB25 with a $1000 turbo vs forged built RB26 with a $2000+ turbo (not sure if it was the hks or garrett variant).

Great comparison. How does the rush on boost compare from the seat of the pants? Did you ever run the T04Z down the 1/4?

How can you say that WOT is WOT. 1st example, full boost will be later in 1st gear then it is in 4th gear etc. The whole turbo powerband shifts to the left as you get higher up in the gears (and hence speed). Yes its not huge but can be 1-2,000rpm between 1st and 4th which is considerable. So for a street car that will do most accelerating sub 100km/h I would choose the GT30 0.82. Track car and drag are different scenarios.

The thread starter said: "Hey guys heres my build plan would this be adequate just for using as a street car" If someone wants a high powered car to use on the street I think thats their choice. And if they decide to, surely you want to use the power at legal street speeds.

See I think thats misleading as the rpm behaviour is 1-2,000rpm difference between 1st gear and 4th gear. So if the dyno shows the power dropping off above 6,000rpm in 4th gear, it might drop off at 6,500 in 3rd and not drop off at all in 1st and 2nd gears as its above the rev limiter. So if your mostly in 3rd and 4th gears you will notice the power dropping off whereas if you drive on the street and mostly in 1st and 2nd under power then you wont notice it at all.

Exactly, what speed did it die off up high? I am tipping way above legal road speeds. Why such low compression??

When is someone going to try an internally wastegated one on the factory manfiold???

You left out the fact it also has a supercharger hahaha

Wow you just created the first turbocharged vehicle to not have lag!!! I think you mean the lag you have is acceptable for you. Put the car in 5th gear at 60km/h and tell me you have no lag.

I disagree, there is car on here (Al's) with an RB2530, he runs a GT3076 0.82 and makes 330rwkw with unbelievable response. My argument is that I would prefer a super responsive ~330rwkw setup then a less responsive ~370rwkw setup for the street. It depends on the driver too on what they prefer. I have just changed from a 280rwkw setup on an RB25 with less reponse and changed to 250rwkw with amazing response and it would beat the previous setup in all times but a rolling start from 80+ km/h

Sounds 'adequate' to me for a street car haha. There is heaps of info in the stickies above on what mods are required to get the twin cam head onto the rb30 bottom end. Only comment I will make is that if you choose the 3037 then make sure you get the larger 0.87 housing if possible. I would recommend either a kando T67 or a 3076 with 0.82 housing. For a street car I would leave the GT35R alone. You might as well go larger injectors to give yourself more headroom and if you ever decide to run E85. I would go ID1000's. Not sure whether that fuel pump will be enough. Will you be using standard exhaust manifolds?

What pressure drop though?

Congrats to get it up and running! That fuel consumption sounds ok to me for driving in medium to heavy traffic in the suburbs. Do you know what the afrs are like at cruise? Your cams will use more fuel then standard cams. Even a pre 2004ish normal commodore or falcon 6 will get more than 10L/100km in peak hour driving to work and back. My dads 2005 monaro V8 gets over 20L/100km. Have you done any measurements in lighter traffic or on the highway etc? How about when you give it a hard time? If its good in some conditions but not in others it could be the tune is too rich for different conditions. But doesnt sound excessive to me.

I know what your saying about the kando turbos but external gated turbos are always cheaper obviously. Would be great if Tao can make a batch of 5-10 SS-1 turbos and get the price down to ~$1300. That would be a great deal.

Which fuel did you come from? This does make sense as the Caltex fuel at the moment is ~E70.

Very interesting, thanks for the posting that. Wouldnt the United E85 (really E95) have issues with cold start in the winter? I thought someone in this thread mentioned that Caltex have never gone to their summer mix and so far have just stayed with their low 70's winter mix? Did you get a chance to test Caltex during summer?

Could it be that you were revving to 9100rpm and hitting the rev limiter without having it tuned with the new manifold??

Yup more lag and prob only 10-20rwkw right up top in the rev range. Dont do it, the 0.68 is perfect for the RB25. Look in other areas for gains like E85 etc.

Interesting info, any idea where the 6boost manifolds stack up?

Hi, I would like to purchase the left R34 guard liner. Are you able to post to Melbourne?