Col-GTSX

Nice one mud... Andrew you have too much time... Nerd pron....

After taking another look at the pics im 110% sure its a series 1.5.... Id put money on it....

Its 100% a 1.5... Has a series 2 motor with series 1 interia and series 1 front end (ie grill, bumer and most importantlly headlights... The series 2 has different head lights. If its a 96 model it cant be a swries 1.. It can only be 1.5 or series 2.... Must be a 1.5, as why would someone replace series 2 stuff with series 1 parts...

A balloon pinch of air like its trying hard to get threw. Is the rubber hose that runs between your AFM and the turbo... This hose can pinch inward due to age and the amount of air being drawn. I replaced my rubber hose with a alloy part. As most do with turbo uogrades. Cause when its made of metal it aint gonna pinch inward.... But this is strange at stock boost....?

Thats the plan stan... i mean R31 Nis

Let me just state before anyone runs out and buys one. This is a fairly easy item to fit, but to set it up correctlly you need some help. Dont attempt to set this up on a trial and error basis or pistons will meet your valves. I have found some info that says start at 4 deg's... Drive and watch knock sensor readings on PFC. Then adjust 1 deg at a time til you finally see the knck change then step it back 1 degree and tighten it down as hard as possible. Also mark with a pen so you can check for slipping at a simple glance. Ill let you guys know the power gain. Im trying to get a dyno so we can run it in the morning then fit and run again. Give you guys an exact result and a simple guide on where to start. All info i have found said dont do it unless you can monitor knock sensors as this is your key indicator for limits. Cheers Col

As i said MonstaS4 it was "my understanding" i was not sure.... This system is very different to Toyotas system... Although i didnt remember the topic from Tafe. I did work with the RB25 motor, but that was long ago. Ill try and retrieve my notes from Tafe and get you an exact answer. As we compaired Nissan with Toyota.

Got it today... Looks awsome... I got the new style one. Silver and purple (not blue and purple) Looks very easy to adjust. Ill have to buy one for the inlet side just for the bling factor (not really)LOL. Ill fit it and run a tech thread on it.... As per usual...

Hey b$tch arse

Does anyone remeber a vid i downloaded it from these forums years ago... It was a compilation of heaps of accidents put to music. It was about 30 MB of pure pleasure. Anyone know it or got it????

I would have been deleted due to off topic discussion. The forum rules included; *no arguing about price in the thread use a PM *no posting if you aint buying *dont be a tool (sorry that one wasent there) Maby you need to re-consider your price as there seems to be a trend here... Thanks

Is ths a joke????

Good reason to buy a compressor and rattle gun.... Im gonna get one just to do that.... LOL Side note: How is the 32 going Pred?

Na 34 does not have the same brakes and other differences inbetween the cars... Plus you have the re-sale point of difference. No matter what you do, its still only a N/A version. Plus mod plates, plus insurance costs as its a non standard turbo. The list goes on. The cost tot turbo it would out weigh just buying a turbo one in the first place.... I wanted a 34 but the cost is a little too steep. A good S2 R33 is less than 25g now. Insurance is not too bad either.... For me 33 = 1300 per year 34 = 2300 per year... Go figure????

I made that choice myself 4 months ago... Go the 33... Drive a na 34 and you will see why...

Sorry i missed the point of the discussion... No the timing belt you have purchased will be fine.... As long as it was for the 25det motor it will fit. R33/34 use the same timing belt.

Sydney kid is correct... I will confirm All R33's i have seen and to my knowledge are al VVT As for the coil packs the only difference inbetween the S1 and S2 is the ignighter pack. My personal understanding is that the R33 25 motor has a signal from the cam mag to the reciever pictured above which switches the ECU to VVT stage. But i dont believe it cuts out at any rev range... It works from 3200 rpm right threw to red line. The Neo R34 can adjust due to load... any where inbetween 0 and 17 degres (if i remember corectlly). I covered this module at Tafe and we used the skyline neo as a test engine. But that was 5 years ago....

Yeah.... i just check out nengun and didnt see them in the cat... At that price tho id be better off just picking up a set from work and wait a week. I was just thinking of maby getting some tommorrow. Ill just order them from work i guess (issue solved)

I also admitted that blue smoke could be a sign of fuel and oil..... In a skyline reving fuel is common to blow out.... More fuel may even cause a flash.... Ive had a fire in my exhaust before..... Busted the cat and destroyed the muffler.... But yeah.. Too much fuel and oil is a bad thing... LOL

white SMOKE.... SMOKE read above before posting..... Water/coolant is vapor, it will dissapear within a second of leaving the exhaust. Would not even see it from inside the car. Go and burn some oil and see what colour it produces.... Dab a bit on your exhaust manifold and watch it smoke and then come back and tell me what colour it is....

Before someone pick at it. Oil is not good for a turbo ( i mean dont pour oil down your inlet. Im just saying it does not hurt the turbo to have a little (tiny) bit of spray. Also you do not "need" to connect it to the intake, its just suggested. Point i was trying to mark is dont make it atmospheric venting....

Yes the crank case is connected to the head.... Obdivouslly.... (check my spelling) But yeah... There are a few ways to look at it... As for a simple explination.... Atmospheric ventilation from a catch can is illegal.... Full stop. The reason why is it is dangerous and is un-healthy. I run a catch can, but dont have it vented and dont have it drainable. As it would take 2 years to fill it, i see no point is draining it even monthly. I just rip it out when i do an oil change. The catch can should be conected to the intake for the turbo. A little oil spray is good for the turbo. Im not going to argue the pros and cons. I have seen fire after fire when it comes to mis-installation on oil cans. Please read all of the above is you are considering fitment of an oil can. I dont suggest doing it if your goona do it wrong. Thanks Col

Where did u sousce your coils??? I can only find a few places and they all vary in price a heap... $700 a set to $1100 a set...

The colonel???? Me dont understand... So so so so so funny i read it now. This afternoon a WRX came into work for a re-wire after an engine fire due to a oil catch can...... LOL whats the chances that i might be right.... 2LV.... Maby we were correct in saying its dangerous.... LOL Just so funny i see what i was describing come into work like an hour after i state it.... LOL If you dont agree then ill have them write it down on paper and ill mail it to you. As the owner knew what had happened and he said he was told to fix it only 2 weeks ago by his mechanic.... So funny, people dont listern...

Anything under 6psi will not harm your turbo.... A HR31 does not even have a BOV as standard (i used to own a couple) If you plan on running 7+ psi then use the above info...