Col-GTSX

Nice results.... I have a power curve thats a bit down at 120kph and then pulls back up again... This is what i was trying to achieve. I hope my power curve is as sussesful as yours. Before anothone else says it. Im not in it for more power im trying to flatten out my power curve. I mean make it more consistant, even accross the board. Not up and down threw the revs... Cheers

blue smoke is really a combo of oil and fuel.... as i stated above... white is oil blue is fuel and oil black is fuel Go and burn some oil using a wick and see what colour smoke their is.....

did it smoke before they hi flowed it???

Just get a pod and you willo get a little flutter... If this is not enought then yeah tighter BOV... I use a HKS SSQV, it will only open above .5 bar anything under that flutters back threw the pod...

How did ya go... Get there.... With the lube???? LOL

So if i had a BCHR33 Id have an rb26dett equipted hicas ready 2/4 door GTS sleeper... Rb26dett 4 stud sleeper... LOL

Nice tech thread... Love it... Good info and good suggestions for mods.... Good to see some info on the PFC in one thread... Now we need someone to do the same for th Wolf 3D... (I have PFC, just like to see anohter point of view for the youngins... non PFC'ers i mean)

Blue is old-old-old oil dude... (thanks why 80's flacons blow blue, cause they were'nt serveced this centry... LOL) New clean oil is white.... water will be condinsation, we just confirmed its smoke not condensation....

Check out my avatar.... More fuel more air and a fu$kin big ignightion.... LOL

I just updated my AVCR vs SBC post to including more tuning info... Cheers

After multiple pms about setting the boost on the SBC i will note the following.... If you are after 10psi do the following (internal wastegate only); go to channel1.... Switch this channel to manual set boost to 43 set gain to 10 this is 10psi on the head, may need to adjust the boost setting up or down +5 or -5 depending on how much hose you used. 10 psi for external wastegate users. go to channel 1 set to manual set boost to 32 set gain to 40 once again just play with the boost number to adjust the boost value... Also note the boost number does not relate to a certain figure (i mean its not like 40psi) its just a scale of 1-100 (1 = stock boost / 100 = max boost) Do not play with you gain setting in manual mode unless you want to kill your clutch. Automatic cars may run a combo of like; Channel 1 manual mode boost set to 34 gain set to 15 This will give you a kick but is not suggest for any standard gtst... As you will kick the motor too hard and it will kick you in the back pocket. LOL

I would be the person you are talking about.... You can do it yourself. 2 wires man.... Hardest part os deciding where to put the control unit. Mount the dual sol behind the passanger strut and make sure your piping is less than 3 feet. The shorter the faster it will respond. It should take you about 1 hours to install.... Put your hose and wireing through the main loom gromment and mount the main control unit under the stereo. Cheers Col

Well u need to do a comp test as described above... Lets hope its the turbo as this is cheap and easy to replace....

2LV is right... A direct connection between the crank case and catch can would be a stupid idea. Oil vapor under you bonnet is not onlt illegal but its pretty stupid. I have seen many engine fires where the filter catchs on fire due to a little spark.... You ever seen a 4wd on fire. Usually its because they use a coke bottle and a piece of garden hose to ventilate the front diff... Thats why compaines like TJM make a non ventilated system which complies with the CAM's and all states... Dont do it the dodgy way, do it properly. A ball valve cannot fail, an electrical setup is prone to fail (im an auto elec, id know). What happens if the electronic valve fails, opens due to bad connection. Crank case spews oil back to the catch can. Catch can over fills and blows a hose or oil comes out the filter. Oil on a hot exhaust or turbo. Guess what "FIRE".... You need to make it safe, so think about 2LV's idea (or sydney kids) its been throught out properly. I could make an elecronic system but i wouldnt trust it. So ball valve is the way to go i reckon.

vapor is just condensation in the exhast on a cold morning.... Perfectlly normal... The vapor will disapear straight away. If its smoke it will waft into the distance....

Check your timing...

I agree.... Remember you need 3 things to get combustion in a petrol motor... 1. Fuel 2. Air 3. Ignition..... If you want more power you need to increase the amount of the above to comply... IE> A V8 has a higher capicity, more fuel and more air with 8 spark plug more ignigition. This equates to power power. A skyline has a turbo and very large injectors for its class. This means more fuel and air but no more ignighton. You have done the steps to increase air and fuel... Now its time to increase ignightion... Make sence???? Cheers Col

i have not cnfirmed 250rwkw with the boost turned up... I have a list of mods as long as my arm.... 217rwkw was with just boost and a few minor mods, or common mods you may say... I am only estimating 250rwkw at 16psi.... It would be very close to this figure tho.... Its all about the supporting mods, you could make 250rwkw from a stock setup (for about 1 second) then she would go BOOM. So its about reliable power to me... I run 200rwkw daily, for fuel reasons. Then i can turn it up with 20 minutes work....

White is oil Black is fuel Blue is a combo of both.... Once i had to start this little datto 120Y that had not started in 2 years... I blew rusty brown smoke for about 5 minutes... LOL Id say ifs its only blowing when cold. Could be a turbo seal givin out or a piston oil ring a bit worn... If youwant do a comp test when the engine is cold. Take this reading, then pump a touch of oil into each piston threw the spark plug hole, then do the comp test again. This will prove if its the piston rings and if yes then which piston is doing most of the mischafe... If the results are within 10% of the original test with out oil. Id blame a sel in the turbo.... Cheers Col

Yeah. I knew it would not give me 300kw's.... LOL I just want everthing.... This car is to remain as stock looking as possible.... I had a spare $250 IN AUTOBARN VOUCHERS... So i thought it would be a good idea...

Yeah... go with a base map like robo suggested... But you really need an hour on the dyno to set it up properly.... But you would be right to drive it (granny style) to the dyno.... Just go easy..

2LV8ETR very very good idea... There you go. If you really want to drain to the sump then do something like this. Although only open this valve when the motor is shut down. The only other thing is the oil in the catch can will be cold, so flow will be slow. You will not be able to get it all out as cold oil is thick oil... especially when its used cold oil....

I have purchased a HKS cam gear, hence the title.... Im just waiting for it to come. (about a week) Will fit next week end hopefully.... Like i said i would apriciate a noob's version of setting up. Im not afraid to say i dont know what im doing when it comes to these units. I wanted one as i understand what they do, how they work. Just dont know how to setup.... Yes you can get a great result from any motor with a hair dryer bolted on the side.... It allows for a longer duration of the exhaust cam, RB25's have VVT so it is pointless putting one on the inlet side. But the exhaust could use a helping hand.... Thanks again Sydney Kid....

I high flowed a standard r33 comp. Had steel wheels fitted an the BB cartridge replaced. They also changed my exhaust wheel to a different type (unknown origin). I reached 217rwkw at 10psi on strock injectors and just a piggy back system.... (Had to drop the cat out so the exhaust could flow, as at the time i had a stock exhaust.) Now im up to around the 250rwkw roughly when i use my race pipe. Then with the stock exhaust re connected it turn it down a little to around 200rwkw.....

Well draining to the sump could be a bad thing... The crank case preasure is different to the cyl head preasure. If you were to run a connection inbetween the crankcase and head you would even out the pressure. This would make the crank case preasure build and put extra pressure on the back of the pistons. So the motor would labour to return the pistons to the bottom of their stroke. All catch cans are setup just to ventilate the cam case pressure. It takes ages to fill the 800ml catch cans. Not allot of oil makes it there. Its more about a remote area to ventilate the pressure. As a standard PCV does not flow enough of this pressure.... Cheers Col