Betz

Green? I am a fitter/machinist, I prolly should have mentioned that. I am fully aware of what making a mistake could mean, I am not totally half arseing this I have often found that its not very often that people will do as thorough job as I would do myself, hence my car is off the road for its upgrades rathur than contract a shop to do it for me at a list price. jeeez be a bit more creative.

heh, I expected that 370kw ist realy 600hp tho, 100hp in driveline soak? k, - can the crate motor idea, is the 05U ok or should I invest in 24U block? is grouting worth it? - wouldount RS581 spec housings with billet turbo bb cores be similar to HKS2530's? - dun need dry sump, but I have worked in motorsport and like my gilmer drive - PFC is fitted and has the annoying intermittent miss/fart and it shits me to tears. - ok, I'm vain enough to ensure that when the engine is rebuilt it will look atleast a little bit pimp and can justify the money as it atleast in theory will help make more power. Last car I restoed was a XT GT Falcon and 350 - 400hp was kinda hard to get back in the day.

k, so soft option of off the shelf upgrades is fine for the cars layout, how about my power expectations? I know people pull big arse figures from thier engines and 600+ hp at the fly isnt over the top, is getting that figure from what I detailed gunna break my balls? I'm not up for stupidly exotic methods of reaching that power and want it managable and on tap any time I choose to use it. heh

Am happy to rose joint, dry sump etc, but yea its prolly a bit overkill for 600hp package? [

Guys after 2years of cantankerous ownership and the joy of daily driving my r32 GTR my original plans are soon to commence. I have retired the GTR of its commute duties and am at planning stage of its restoration. My goals are to have my car rebuilt to the pinnical of its racing heritage and be civil enough to drive on the street. Big ask I am sure however considering the advances 20years on its possible. Budget is open ended but I wont be be sourcing the likes of <insert Jap tuning shop name here> titanium valve cover cap screw protectors..etc Engine: Goal will be the 600+ engine hp and would like to use turbos no bigger than the largest housings on Le Mans based GTR's altho I can be swayed While not fixed to exact specs and stroker kits are ok, I want the engine to reflect the higher end of Nissan/Group A development of the rb26 I was thinking; Nur crate motor (or rebuild my 05U with N1 or forged internals) Custom Billit turbo T04B/T3 turbines (RS581 sizings) appropriate headwok/porting/manifolds Trust peII exaust will not be using a PFC - ecu is open Dry sump is an option supporting systems such as fuel/cooling? What I am asking to the SAU community is advise on a practical and rounded resto of my car, its been a while since I rebuilt one. I have the ability to do alot of stuff myself and I know what I want to achieve, I'd like help cutting through the cheeze associated with jap muscle cars and just have a good tuff GTR with no bullshit Street use (prolly weekend only), some track work, not realy interested in drag events. Cheers! Other crap not thought through much yet Drivetrain: Since I will only thrash it occationally on the track and only need the ego on the street new diffs, a twin plate and maybe a ppg box after a break the stockie is all I'll need? Chassis regular bracing, a street cage, the bilstien/whiteline kit from group buy, some LMGT4's and good brembos? Interior I'll make myself at home

you didnt buy one of those cameras did you?

Hi all, I have some positions avaiable, factory enviroment all FT 40hr pw. We are a global recycling company, immediate start. 1x Maintenence Team Leader Prefered Fitter and Turner but any demonstrated mechanical aptitude will suffice. Connect/disconnect Licence prefered. Admin skills required and supervisory of 1-2 other Maintenence staff. $30ph + depending on qualifications. 3x Process workers Forklift licence prefered Site specific training provided Females encouraged to apply $18.49 + casual loading for 3 month trial. resumes to betzie(at)gmail.com - no PM please

bump, still looking PM a price plz 1400r - I think my phone is flat today

interested in the rb26 head, dont need covers, turbos or even cams/valves etc. pm me wiht price plz

need a rb26 head either bare, complete, used or reco. PM what you have or call me 0434148348 ta Jesse

I have nfi if it applies to our cars but some vehicles will 'free wheel' if the car sences they are being towed to avoid damage to the 4wd system i'm sure someone will come along soon to clarify but maybe that is what you have expirienced anyone?

Okies, Have my car back with the clutch back in it. Jim gave me the confidence to put it back in, my tuner was happy enough after all factors relating to my problem were rationalised. My situation came down to glycol contamination (thats as close as we could narrow it down to after the car's history was thrashed out) It feels different, not sure if Jim tweaked it at all but it might just feel different because I have been on other wheels for the last few weeks. I'll keep you all posted if I have any probs in 5000klm time

mad. lol, I cant believe I read the entire thread.. heh back to look at that graph again. just mad

any oil, grease or silicon in the clutch housing, and old clutch powder. I'd have to check the invoice but I'm pretty sure the mechanic charged me a cleandown fee. Jim supplies seals as part of the kit to try and ensure a clean enviroment for his clutches, fair enough I spose. I was specified a fitment criteria and my tuner was asked to use no oil or grease (tuner asked me I sad fit as requested by Jim)

same kit as mine Pavel, I hope you get what you were after with it. I spoke to Jim today aswel, he is a good bloke and we have a bit in common, I am a fitter and turner by trade so we spent a bit of time on the phone exchanging stories heh Jim came back to me with contamination as the issue, looks like its not a warranty issue on his end as the unit (apart from welding itself together) is fine, my tuner disagrees on the contamination and is at a loss as to why such a speced unit spun on me and failed but that is another story and to be honest I am not into making this a witch hunt, I just didnt get a good result. :| Hell if it is somthing to do with my driving maybe one of them could tell me ??! (I told them what I have done to it and what happened, niether seemed concerned that I gave it a few launches) I dont think I will put this clutch back in my car, my power goals might get put on hold for a bit and I'll go for HD stockie organic. Hope what I have said doesnt put anyone off Jim's clutches, maybe my unit wasnt a good match for my situation but thats what a forum is for I spose, sharing information. cheers guys

my dispatch girl botched the packaging and Aussie post sent it back to me, so it went out today. Jim should have it tomorrow, its welded together, I spoke to Jim and he said it happens sometimes.... due to contamination nothing is actually worn or broken, just some dust. no oil or anything. hoping I will get a call from him tomorrow with some info. I hope anyone following this doesnt take my frustration as critisisim of Jim's work but I was expecting better performance out of it and service life, hope its somthing simple and I get my beast back soon. lol, scabbing loan cars is the pits, so far have had a Nova, a porker 911 and an Izusu truck! cheers

well my tuner finally got it out for me not a failure so to speak but its welded to the pressure plate and has left materail on the flywheel aswel, thickness is still good, no grease contamination, you can see its got hot but its only contact surface not signficat enough to discolor anything. I dunno yet, will ship it off to Jim on monday

I want the JUN kit when I do my build but it will also come down to price. I'd like to start with a fresh N1 block but over boring a new block to 87mm seems a bit retarded. Do any of the kits use a 86mm piston? I know the JUN kit is a special piston and must be used with the crank but what about the others?

my power figure topped out at 275awk, but as I have had a few issues with the cooling system I have been running lower boost and 230awk so its no big monster. Fitment was as per Jim's instructions by my tuner.

sweet! know who stocks them locally?

its comming out on sat, not sure on warranty policy (or even if its a warranty at this stage), however.. if it is a failure it wont be going back in, so coppermix twin looks like best option from the research I have done. I cant afford downtime on my car as its a daily driver cheers

spoke to Jim today, he was very concerned that my clutch had failed and wants it sent back for inspection which will hapen as soon as I can get it out. my expierience with the clutch hasnt been a good one, I'll be kicking myself if I get another dud hence I am thinking an alternative. these clutches have a stock pressure plate resprung to massive clamp pressures, to be fair to Jim, when I inspected the unit prior to install it was of a very high quality so I doubt if it was workmanship, just maybe its pushhing modded stock gear a bit far. labor, time and the fact I am on a rental car is the cost/downtime I want to avoid. My tuner is busy for a week so I may get Nissan to pull it out and hold the car until a verdict on the failure is made. I spose I should wait until then, if I do take it to nissan then a Nismo clutch might be a possibility. If nissan wont fit it (or want $5000 and 6weeks to do it) I can have a replacement done elsewhere. I have searched and the posters with coppermix clutches seem very happy, with opinions on other hipo clutches varying radically. looking for favorable reports on the units available without special order or shipment from Japan. and finally, maaan. the cheapie rental is the pits.. oh guys I tell you its just sheer terror.. 199? holden nova with no powersteer/electrics and more miles on it than Courtney Love. ..

yo, broke my Jim Berrry 'full monty' 1000hp? 4000lb+ piece of crap after 5000ks waste of money clutch. It is still in the car and definatly looks like pressure plate failure from what I can tell, my car is agressivly driven on the street, I dont launch at every light tho and the current clutch only had to endure 2 launches, the 3rd relitivly easy launch killed it. it never realy hooked up properly and made unpleasent sounds after run in period. I am looking at a coppermix twin as a replacemnt but would like to know of alternatives and availability. can anyone reccomend any options? and where can I get somthing quickly? cheers Betz

My full monty just crapped itself, 5000k's of relitive easy street driving. I should have gone for a nismo, I am very dissapointed.

lol, the OP confused me. yea those trust turbos are not water cooled, the lines are for oil not water, and you should be able to block the water lines from the block with a fitting as Shakiel says