Betz

Because of the massive money pit GTR's can be (my early bnr32 is nice but will need a rebuild in time. basic costing is about 40k all up) Fuel, police attention, VN V6 P plater commodore attention, maintence, and all the other hooks that owning a GTR involves (man this car opened my eyes and wallet regarding running a vehicle of this calibre) I'm thinking of selling the beast and buying an R1, sure I'll get wet, and maybe I'll kill myself.. but The GTR altho dry can kill me just as easy. I drive my car daily btw, I dont want running costs on 2 cars, but could handle a shitter runabout and a bike I spose. I'm sure many of you have wieghed the pro's and cons getting your performance hit from a bike or a car and the running costs involved. Sure its a Skyline forum, I want to spend another $40k getting my car where it is and can schedule that in over maybe 2 years, I honestly cant see another car I would be happy to have forked out a total of $60k... ish for other than a mint BNR32 Group A race car for the road. Does anyone expect these cars to go up in value? what about historic Group A racaing? I'd ike to see that happen and my rebuild would reflect the R32's race history more than 'rice' factor. In a way I am yearing for that brand new feeling, and rebuilding an old car may not meet that requirement. R1 I get the new smell and the same power hit in a more cost efficent manner pros/cons anyone?

So attessa controlls both the 4wd and ABS? I dont realy want to upgrade the attessa unit as I like the way 32's are a lill tail happy (you can actually power oversteer the car around corners, somthing I have heard is more difficult to do with 33 and 34 GTR's) I dont think my unit is fuxored, just that its an old car with an old tech ABS unit which I feel doesnt realy help apart from those times when your dead set going to slam up someones ass (as opposed to ensuring the best possible braking performance such as more modern ABS setups) anyone with a 33 or 34 got a pick of one?

Had a bit of a scare tonite on the way home, its the second time I have had the ABS on my 32 GTR kick in and tbh I dont like it.. The pulsing is very slow (after all it is a pretty old car) and my unit is leaking from the joins ever so slightly. are there any upgrade options for BNR32 ABS units? leik from a 33 or 34? cheers

mine does it aswel, not sure on model number. This is just a hunch, I have a feeling it could possibly be the unit doing a data dump or memory dump of logged engine data to an EPROM or onboard memory chip. just a guess. I'll be turfing the basic PFC when new engine build gets under way, may use D-Jetro if it doesnt suffer this problem, otherwise its MoTec and 2minute noodles for 6months

I just spent what felt like an eternity in hell changing all the water hoses on my BNR32. This involved taking off the inlet manifold (a nightmare just by itself) and then bludgeoning, stabbing, cutting, spearing etc myself to death for hours on end to get to and change all the cooling system and heater hoses... upon reassembly I had a fair bit of trouble with the far bottom nut anf thierd from the back lower manifold nuts. so much trouble that there is now a collection of sockets, nuts, washers and even a cupple of magnets sitting somewhere in the creavaces of the engine bay. Fun times. In the end I could not get those 2 nuts done up and will attack them with gusto at a later date. I have fired the car and tested the cooling system and there are no leaks thank <insert diety here> however it seems I have a vacume leak as the car is hunting at idle. I dont plan to drive it while it is like this (except maybe to somewhere with a hoist) can there be damage done by driving or running the car like this? will it lean out and melt a piston down or somthing disasterous like that?? cheers for any help on this, and a note for anyone wanting to change thier hoses at home... be prepared for hours and hours of realy annoying and fiddly work.. Betz

got a part number? if it checks out for my application i will bite cheers

PM me how much so I can start listing body parts on ebay ^^ totally serious I must have this engine

I 'slip' the clutch as little as practical to get the car moving smoothly. the take up has always been very fast, I usually give 1500rpm and come off the clutch quickly and can feel the clutch hook up smoothly. changing gear I can get smooth changes without needing to induce slip and its only when driven hard that gear changes are a bit violent. my pedal hieght is a little higher than I would like, but it has always been like that even when the clutch was first installed. the clicking sound when depressing the clutch is like the diaphram has a cupple of broken fingers. the clutch also squeals when its cold and is engaging, this goes away after a few k's of driving and indicates to me the clutch has been run in and the high points knocked off. if its dead then its pretty piss poor value 3000k's for a $1500 clutch

hmmm, my JB 'full monty' slipped on the weekend when I did a cupple of 6k+ launches in my R32 GTR its a carbonic clutch plate with 4000lb pressure plate and has done 3000k's first launch it fully slipped and did not properly hook up, second run it slipped and eventually hooked up. After the launch I went to drive off normally and the clutch wouldn't engage and just slipped and shuddered. I got the car moving and it seemed to right itself (drives fine now, but I havnt attempted another launch) I'm a little dissapointed as my 'stock' GTR makes only 230AWK and when I did the launches I was not running my usual 1bar, I was only using .7bar. It also makes a bit of a clicking sound when depressing the clutch. The unit was installed by my tuner following Jim's strict instalation instructions. fitted the unit set me back close to $2k and I am not a happy camper

well how it was explained to me (and I cant recall the exact rpm's) was that the stock turbo's spin at like 100 - 170k rpms and then you enter the danger area of 200k+ rpm at over 1bar, I was also told that after 1bar the small stock turbines turbo's will spin an extra 50k rpm or so for every .2bar making upping things a real stain on the relitivly weak ceramic exaust wheel. does this sound right, or was I fed a heap of bullsh!t?

thought that might be the case.. I have been advised that its not so much of a problem in lower gears because your always changing and they dont get a great deal of time spinning at those higher rpm's, but was told to beware gunning it on the freeway if its overboosting as it will die pretty fast.. was kinda interested as to just how terminal boosting stock GTR turbs past 1.2 bar or so realy is (ie, do they die realy fast?)

Heya all, my boost controller goes on holidays at random intervals and quite often I'm overboosting up to 1.8bar booted it on the freeway in 4th today to overtake a truck and it over boosted from the time it took to get from 100ks to 160ks, which wasnt that long I spose... I keep fiddling with the controller, its a GReedy prospec B (analogue) dual stage EBC while it has been dialed in at .9-1bar it always seems to fluctuate, sometimes working perfectly sometimes overboosting like a mofo. how long before an exaust turbine falls off?

I have been picked up alot in the 2 years I have had my 32 GTR for the amount of k's I have done. they are cop bait for sure, but if your doing nothing wrong then its just sh!tty luck if you get fingered by the poo poo for owning an import. I was told by a cop. "... the only reason we pulled you up is because of the car your driving, you can't drive these things on the street mate, they are for the track only.."

this thread is awesome and win, skyline and azn chicks ate 2 of the most awesome things eva /goes back to being old

this makes me sad. hope you get her back

AutoRacingTechnik Hiedelberg speak to Ray or Phill, 94590880 tell him Jesse refered you

I have one from the group buy here if you want it. Greensbourogh area, PM for my details if ya want it cheers Jesse edit: its for a r32GTR, in the group buy thread its the type 'A' if that helps. NFI what the difference is between type A and B

so I monitor it and listen for death throws and pull it off the road for a refresh? I've braced myself for GTR ownership, but still want my milage /cogs ticking over, time to plan a build..

So I flushed he radiator and have been driving and not been able to read any oil pressure, Got to my mechanic and he hooked up another guage and sender and same result, static 2bar pressure. there is a very small amount of oil in the coolant but its not milk and could just be a little bit of residue that is floating on the top of the coolant, its being flushed again tomorrow aswel as an oil change and filters.. I am obviously getting enough oil pressure to keep my motor alive, and I can only guess that one of the galleries is blocked. the car is still running great and I am not loosing oil (atleast not loosing alot of oil into the coolant) and I am blowing no smoke. does anyone have a schematic of the RB26 oiling system? I will prolly stick an airline in the oil sender hole and give it a blast to see if I can dislodge a blockage if that is what it is.. still stumped as to what is the problem, but dont want to pull the donk out just for the sake of it. SAU ppl help me out plz, wazzzzzup with this?

was the roo alright?

+1 for serial numbers

If I ever hit 260 in my GTR I'll keep an ear out for a rattle.... mind you at over 220 its pretty hard to hear anything over the engine and road noise and the only thing I can hear in the cabin is a squelching in my pants

awesome! gotta find a cheap one for the wifey now amd drop in my 26 and trick the auto. thanks for the conformation, I thought they may have all been manuals

simple question did they make such a beast? not worried if it were turbo or natural, but must be 4 door auto and 4WD have a feeling there was a R33 version but personally I am a R32 fancier and I already have a R32 GTR to donate an engine when I do my build plz can someone confirm?

took the arvo off and took my car to Ray at Velociti Motori who tuned the car about a month ago, I have only driven for the last 3 weeks from Greensborough to Port Melbourne for work, so less than 1000k's anyways, he did a coolant pressure test and diagnosed it as a blown head gasket and he reckons the guage sender is stuffed as it seems the engine is getting plenty of oil.... so, it looks like another $1000, hopefully the head isnt warped *sigh* GTR = $2 per kilometer ($1 for upkeep and $1 for fuel)