Betz

I cant wait till I blow a turbo.... just means I'll have to buy some bigger ones good luck, I'll be watching to see how it all goes for you. cheers

IAC valve mine is stuck open and my car idles at 1200rpm all the time (and its annoying) there is a thread on how to clean it to stop it sticking, do a search.. hopefully its not munted as nissan wants around $900 for them

r32 GTR because they are the only real modern classic sports car from japan apart from maybe the MX5.. r32's have an appeal that just cannot be matched in the later generation cars. its a hairy chested neandertal compared to a GTT but my god they are brilliant! the 32 allows a competent driver to attain zen like enlightenment as to how a true GT car should behave when you push them hard. r32 prices are soaring in Japan and there is a lot of chaff in the hay when looking for one locally, if you can find a good one buy it! r34 GTT is a good choice if you dont have much money to spend on your car or its a commute vehicle, the only proble for me with rwd skylines is they are just a turbo coupe, the GTR's have somthing special but then again. I have one.. so I'm bias all the way

do you consider the monaro a sports car?

yes, skylines are a lot of work yes, they are good cars no, they are not sports cars (GTR perhaps) yes, they use a lot of 98RON fuel yes, buy a new WRX... it is a better car to own

not bad plates, but I realy wanted to grab BNR32 when they were up for grabs $1000 offer here for them

yea thats next port of call, was hoping to take it off and piff it in the bin. what about D-Jetro PFC would that do it? That way I can piff the AFM's aswel.. I'll have another read of the IAC valve clean thread anyhoo. cheers

the IAC valve on my car is munted and the car has a permanent 1200rpm idle, not a problem realy while driving but its annoying. nissan quoted me $898 ex Japan for a new on, so I thought I could rip it off and bypass the problem with a Apexi Power FC. anyone know if this is possible? cheers

sounds cheap for all the upgrades on it. FYI there is very little difference between r32 and r33 GTR engines (oil pump drive on the crank was late r33 and r34 only iirc) and with those mods it doesnt realy make any difference if it was a r32 or r33 engine. be aware that these cars detiroate quickly when worked on the track or the strip, so if its going to be a driver it may be a bit of a pig.. if you plan to use it as a track weapon it could be an exceptional buy goodluck!

+1 r32 GTR is the ledgend and an amazing achievment for a 1989 model car even by todays standards. of course we all know the r34 is a better car overall, its just that it doesnt do anything the r32 already did 10 years earlier /runs outside to hug r32 GTR

ahhh, but no flutter unless I have the boot into it. just a little "psssh" on the low rpm changes

hmmm, $50 eh? I could help you out.. but it will be an extra $10 for every flutter

he recons that standard replacement prelude tail lights cost $1500 wtfbbq??? no wonder they are looking to the nissan parts bin

welcome to the gtr club first off you need to do all the cars fluids and get it dialed in on a dyno to make sure everything is working properly, timing belt is cheap insurance aswel. should cost around $1000 maybe a little more. they will be able to check out your tranny aswel I took my car to Melbourne Performance centre (talk to Lee, he is a real champ and very helpfull) http://melbourneperformance.com/ you picked up a cheap car, fingers crossed it is in sound condition as they can be a real money pit, I paid $23k for mine but its an pretty awesome condition for a car of its age. good luck with your new toy, and enjoy

rofl a mate has one of those preludes and wants to fit r32 tail lights and a turbo heh, I'll send him this link

I have access to a polyurethane workshop (family buisness) If there is enough interest I am able to tool up reletivly cheaply to produce poly bushes for our cars. I can also produce custom engine mounts and other pieces like strut hats and the like. The urethane we use is supierior to 'nolathane', rubber and the poly used in aftermarket bush kits (trust me, I know a lot about polyeurethane) I can produce the bushes in varying hardnesses from 10 shore A to 60 shore D (basicly chewing gum to nylon and everything in between) this is not our line of work and we usually only do custom applications altho seeing as I will at some stage rebush my GTR I will do it myself and if there is enuf interest can supply kits for ppl with a group buy or somthing (can also do different colors if you like ) the matierial we use has the highest possible properties available and will more than likely outlast your car, the material does not suffer from memory any where near as much as nolathane or off the shelf bushes, is UV, acid, solvent and temperature resistant, it also seems to have much less creaking than off the shelf bushes. The other thing to note is that our matierial is far les hydroscopic (it does not take in moisture as much as other poly bushes) which means people in tropical areas who have had trouble with nolathane bushes wont have the same issues with our material. as I said this is just an EOI and I'm not a trader in the automotive game (and dont realy want to be ) if this thread is a breach of forum rules then mods please remove.. so please express your interest here and feel free to ask any questiuons regarding polyeurethanes, nylons or plastics in general and I'll try to answer them the best I can. cheers

hmmm, very interested... I might have to go wind the boost up on my stock turbos and redline it till they blow, then I will have to get some new ones will let you know if I can find some money or blow a turbo

well both.. I wouldnt dare drive my car around dandynong/noble park.. even at 10k's below and at times people get defected when thier car is totally leagal, sure it may be easy to lift the defect by going to your RWC guy but its still a pain in the arse that said back in the day I had a tunnel ramed XT GT with a button clutch and no bonnet, was pulled over and told to behave myself I guess its whatever is on the coppers adjenda at the time. point is that the police have declared all out war on the modified car scene in (residential area's atleast) its usually a few idiots screwing the scene for responsable people which sux, but its the way of things and these days I'm scared to drive my car down to quix to get some smoke for fear of not returning...

Final bump, if it doesn't sell I'll keep it, not such a shame.. $20,000 firm delivered with RWC and all minor incidentals sorted

dont do anything wrong and you will be fine... omg I almost believe that ^^

$15-20k will get you a JUN stroker and turbo(s) and good for 600awhp (or so I'm led to believe from my tuner) far more realistic than a 1000hp+ rb as outlined in the above posts the cost skyrockets much like that dyno graph

becasue it can handle it and I had invested in such a beast, sif you wouldnt

I would if money was no object

I will be removing my engine before I put myself thru this kind of pain and suffering, I know just from looking that there is going to be many tears

rathur than start a new topic and without highjacking this thread to much, I was also wondering what advantages and disadvantages there are with twin or single turbos on a stroker engine? I'd kind of like to keep my twin turbo setup, but a big single may be a more straitforward way to go on a all new and fresh stroker engine?