Murray_Calavera

Yep, that's my 33psi full vacuum idle. I had to by a clamp to do your test, so it's a brand new one of these lol https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-clamp-meter---digital/343253.html

When I bought the pump, I was told by the supplier that it was made by Ti / Walbro and rebranded as Aeroflow, so I just took that at face value. I was told it was identical to a Walbro 525. I just threw a clamp on it, so at idle and battery voltage at 13v, it's pulling 14.3A.

Speaking of making things worse to sound better, I tried your trick of turning VCT on at idle but didn't notice any change in the level of how hectic my idle sounds. Is there anything else you played with? ...or is my VCT broken? lol

This is the pump I'm using - https://aeroflowperformance.com/af49-1057-525lph-e85-hi-flow-fuel-pump It has a 3/8" barb outlet and the line supplied in the kit matches that size, so -6 sizing. Where I had to make up fuel lines, it's -6, the same size as the pump outlet. I would think that if this pump 100% for sure needs a larger sized fuel line, why is the outlet of the pump and the line supplied by the manufacturer -6? I've been running with a pump this size, with the same lines, for over 3 years now without any hiccups along the way. The last time I maxed out my fuel system, it was my 740cc side feeds, pressure was never an issue. Having said all that, I could log fuel temperature and pressure at the fuel hat (no idea how I would put a pressure sensor on the pump outlet, but that is -6 anyway so there is no reduction between the outlet and the hat). I'm not massively keen to log these extra channels because I can't understand the value in doing so, but if the powers that be can see value in it, it can be done.

What am I at risk of happening with how things are at the moment?

Previously I had the stock FPR and a very similar sized pump and same lines, it didn't do the 10psi drop. Because I haven't had any issues with fuel supply at the top end and the change only appeared to happen with the change in FPR, I thought it was a product of that regulator and not an issue. Short version, everything has been fine so far, so I thought everything is fine lol.

Lines are stock sized. Pump is Walbro/Aeroflow/TI automotive 525 LPH.

When I upgraded to a radium FPR, with the vacuum line pulled, base pressure is 43.5 psi. With the vacuum line back on, the pressure drops to 33.5 psi. Big difference between the stock FPR and the radium one for sure.

Ah, got ya. Mounting will be very easy. It is physically smaller then the typical fuel pumps used these days. For the average bear, they probably wouldn't care about the aux jet. You might be interested in it though. High power pumps can overpower the stock venturi which is designed for the lower flowing stock pump. From my experience using the stock venturi, I've run my tank down to 5 litres remaining 3 times now. Once the car was barely running (would stall under any amount of G forces), once the car was 100% perfect (didn't even realise there was only 5 litres remaining at the time), the other time the car died and was unable to be restarted. I account this to my stock venturi being inconsistent with the high flow pump. If the stock venturi is happy to work with what that aux jet is supplying, you would resolve these issues of inconsistency. But yeah, for the average bear, I don't think they would care about this until it caused a bigger issue (which it does once you go to 2 or 3 pumps, but they resolve the issue by having a correctly sized venturi in the hat).

God no lol. If you're not aware, the Haltech lets you switch between pre-set displays. So you can have one for track, street, road tuning, etc. It's a million times better then stock.

Well, I guess if you get this pump, you'll end up with a working pump that suits your needs. I know your going to enjoy the extra work required to get it running the way you would like it too, so I suppose the only downside is cost?

I've personally had engine protection save me. My wastegate actuator diaphragm failed and cause the wastegate to seize closed, sending my boost levels to infinity. I was tuning at the time and doing power runs. The ECU caught the over-boost and no harm was done. But I suppose engine protection is worthless if you never need it.... fingers crossed right?

My brain won't let me accept that lol. My gtst makes about 350kw and I feel like the car is only starting to wake up now. If I had a GTR, I would need substantially more power then that. Do you have any plans to track the car?

0. Please please please strongly consider using a modern ECU. Do you really want to go to all this expense and not have functions like engine protection? Also there are so many fun things you can have in the future (dash, CAN keypads, anti lag, the cure for cancer) you might not want these today - but you might in the future. 1. Stock inlet manifold is plenty for that power level. 2. If you have a modern ECU you can bin the AFM. 3. You can make this power on an unopened motor. With your modern ECU you can run a coolant pressure sensor, and if the head starts to lift you can flick the party-off switch. 4. Yes, it will be fkn snuggly though. 5. Yes. Dose is life. Don't know what BOV makes that noise, but it doesn't matter because dose is life. 6. Yes you can block the PCV and run an atmo catch can. 7. You don't need an external gate for the power level you want. If you haven't already bought the GT3076R, you can find something easily in the Hypergear catalogue that will suit your requirements and be internally gated. 8. See point 7. Anything else? I would say if you can't afford the ECU, keep enjoying what you have now and save up for the ECU. It really is worth the price of admission.

Did you tune this yourself, testing at say 0 degrees, then -5, -10, -20, -30 constantly screaming more bangs! and laughing maniacally? I hope so lol.

What will you do when you want more power then this can flow?

It's not a R32 GTR, but hopefully still inspirational lol

I always thought stop start was so they could cheat on the emissions testing/fuel economy figures lol

I can only speak for myself, but they are in the bin! The radium setup with them in the rail is much tidier then having external dampers.

I have some bad news for you. What you experienced is a severe lean misfire. I imagine it felt like you were hitting the engine rev limiter. The reason why you couldn't increase the RPM further, is because at 4000 RPM, the mixture was so lean it was unable to ignite. An engine can still "run" while very lean, but to experience what happened to you, your mixture at that point would have been leaner then 19 AFR. When an engine leans out, it is highly susceptible to detonation/pinging and is the quickest way to kill your engine. If you are worried, have your mechanic put a bore scope in the cylinders and check the tops of the pistons for pitting. But at the end of the day, if it still runs, just forget it ever happened and move on.

It's one of these bad boys http://injectordynamics.com/id-f750-fuel-filter/ It can measure the fuel pressure drop across the filter so you know exactly when to change it - so fkn sexy!

You shouldn't need a diagram, it will take you 5 minutes to locate them all if the car is in the air. Locate the fuel pump hat, its in the boot hidden under a panel with 4 bolts. With the panel removed you can see the fuel lines. Those lines connect to hard lines that run along the length of the car. The hard lines connect to rubber lines that come up into the engine bay. You'll be able to see where they go very easily.

Yes, as everyone keeps saying, please replace your brand new fuel pump with a modern pump. Those tables look ok at a glance. Can't really offer much more commentary without the map and data log though. Rob's advice is even better again, I'd go down that path for sure.

I've got a very similar setup to you (radium rail, 1050's, etc). Just a heads up, the shorter fuel pulse damper fits in the rail. http://www.radiumauto.com/Assets/ProductImages/20-0776_FPD.jpg I used 2 of them in my rail, you can kinda see them if you squint.

Replace the fuel pump. Post your ESP map. Log every channel and go for a drive. Post your data log. You might be surprised to learn that there are many of us here that have built and tuned their own car. I don't know why you are fighting the advice as hard as you are. If your car is truly getting 65 litres per 100km, it should take me all of 5 seconds to see what is wrong in your tune if you post the map and data log.