Murray_Calavera

No it doesn't. It has to meet the standards that was in place at the time the vehicle was constructed. If your car was, I think, older then 1985, then you don't need an emissions test as there were no emissions standards/requirements at that time. If you are having trouble passing emissions, have a chat with a good tuner. It's not 'hard' to pass emissions, the car just has to be setup to pass emissions.... again this just adds to the overall cost involved in getting your certification. I am 100% confident that I could tune/setup a skyline to pass emissions and I'm not a professional tuner by trade.

I hope that's me at 78. What a champ!

What ECU do you have?

What is your experience with stripping/lightening a street car, have you done this before with another car?

The bloke who did the swift is long retired unfortunately.

Do you mean the turbo swift? That was the car I went through engineering with in NSW. My skyline is mod plated in QLD. Both cars are/were pretty extensively modified, would take a while to list it all lol.

Pretty sure its only the one bloke operating Fink Engineering, I think it's Troy Brodie but my memory is a bit hazy on it. I only spoke with him over the phone, 0423 183 624.

Yes, I should have mentioned that. For the average bear, this is 100% the correct way to do things. My approach is a little unorthodox, in that I have an understanding of the rules/process so I'm happy to build my car first. Then find an engineer that is on the same page as me. So far I haven't had any issues operating this way in either NSW or QLD. Nitznair, if I was in your shoes I would find the engineer first before completing the engine swap. You've already started to discover how difficult some engineers are to work with, you don't want to end up with an unregisterable car after completing the swap.

Ok got ya. I'll just ramble some dot points below - Yeah.... hiring a track to do a brake test is indeed a thing. One of the tests that you can complete to certify the brakes requires to stop the car from 160KPH, so can't do that on a public road. There are other tests that can be completed instead of this which can be done on a public road.... This is another example of finding an engineer that interprets the legislation the same way that you do. I would use an engineer that is happy to do the brake test on a public road. The engineering process in NSW requires the car to meet the emissions regulations that were in place at the time that the vehicle was manufactured. Are there places in QLD that can easily complete the emissions test for you? There are 2 places in NSW that can do the test for you, from memory it's a free test and can be done at Botany/Penrith. I don't know if there is any advantage to having the engineering process completed in QLD. I would think it would be much easier being able to speak with the engineer in person to complete the process. Your big brake kit is technically illegal until it is certified by an engineer. Have a look at the document I've attached, check points 16 and 17 under brakes. I already know the process, so when I was speaking with Fink we covered costs and if he would be happy to sign off on my mods and if he would be happy to sign off future mods as they developed. He didn't have any issues with my car or my plans. I found his pricing to be very fair based on the current marked of engineers (well, at least competed to the other engineers I spoke too). RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf

I'm a little bit confused, what state do you live in/where will the Skyline be registered? If the car is registered in NSW, you don't need a QLD mod plate. I found Fink Engineering very good to deal with. The legislation is interpreted by the engineer, I found their interpretation was very similar to my interpretation. This made the process of working with them very smooth sailing. This is a good example of my views and an engineers views not lining up. I once spoke with an engineer in NSW that wanted me to have the car engineered after I removed the rear seat and rear seatbelts. He was more then a little annoyed that all I did was have the car blue slipped and registered as a 2 seater. He thought that was a gross inadequacy after the 'substantial' modifications I had made and the RMS should not have accepted the blue slip without the vehicle being engineered. I've also spoken with engineers that charge $250 per hour and 'round up' to the nearest 15 minute block when billing. So if I needed to very quickly speak to them over the phone, that will be $60 thanks. No issues like that with Fink.

I've gone through the engineering process in NSW and the mod plate process in QLD. Having one or the other when transferring registration between states will not help you. You'll still need to go through that states registration process. From my experience, getting a car certified in NSW is a lot more involved/difficult/costly in comparison to getting a mod plate in QLD. Unfortunately the guy who engineered my swift has long retired, the only decent engineer I know of now in NSW is FINK Engineering. I was going to get the skyline engineered there but ended up moving to QLD before it was done. Let me know if you've got any specific questions about the NSW engineering process.

I'm surprised you think it looks ugly, I think it looks great. I'm not sure if this would effect how well it works, but painting it black might help it blend in with the background if that's what you'd prefer.

Haltech make it really easy to do with one of these boxes - https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-038009-dc-motor-driver-dcmd/ Not recommending it for this circumstance, but it is a sexy piece of kit.

I don't have experience with their car cover, but I have their floor mats - it's really nice. If the cover is as at the same level of quality as their mats, it sounds like a good thing.

Nice! Yep, fingers crossed.

When is the next track day?

https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php?id_product=3144&rewrite=nissan-skyline-r33-s2-air-con-condenser&controller=product

Don't know if it bothers you or not, but as soon as you remove an air bag the car is no longer street legal.

The Link G4 can read the fuel pressure sensor provided you have the spare input for it. Yep, you can T in between the rail and fuel filter for the sensor. For your wideband O2 sensor, one sensor is fine and you can install it in front of the cat. You'll need to get a bug welded on for where you want to locate it. Where the factory O2 sensors are, you can leave the factory sensors there. I wouldn't install a wideband sensor so close to the turbos.

That's bizarre, they have HKS stuff on their site =/ Did you ask GCG/Turbosmart if they have a spring of the size you require? If you're not having luck over the phone, you might have to visit your local Turbosmart dealer in person and bring the gate/spring with you to size up. People tend to be more helpful in person.

So, first thought is. Contact someone who sells HKS stuff, for example - www.carmodsaustralia.com.au They import stuff from Japan regularly and obviously can get HKS parts. They can probably help you out. Next thought is speak with a company that deals with turbo stuff as their core business. There might be some cross over with say a turbosmart wastegate spring and your HKS one - gcg.com.au comes to mind as such a company. Last resort, your going to have to learn Japanese, fluently. Fly to Japan and visit the HKS headquarters and beg for a wastegate spring. They might take pity on you and supply you with a spring.

Does anyone feel like pulling their flex sensor out to see what happens? lol

Ah ok. I was thinking that if the sensor was starved of fuel, it would not send a value to the ECU. So the ECU would just keep using the last known value. But what you are saying is, if the sensor was for example, just plugged in to the ECU with no fuel flowing through it at all, it would still function as expected and send a value to the ECU for 0% ethanol?

Is anything going to happen if the flex sensor isn't sampling fuel for a period of time? I mean the e content of the fuel is the e content, after a few minutes of driving, the mixture never changes. I could only ever see this being an issue after filling up the tank and before the current mixture was established. Is there something I'm missing?

The real challenge is, what does that car even sound like in person? Who knows. Its a video, its a very simple process to just go.... yeahh and another couple of db over the 0 to 40 hz range.... yep perfect. I don't know where you're located, but I'd advise to go to car meets with people that have the same car/engine as you. Have a listen to their setup and go from there.