Murray_Calavera

If your concerned, why not take the block back to the machinist that originally did the bore/hone? They would be able to advise if the hone needs to be redone.

If the chattering does bother you, maybe have a look into WPC treatment. (personally I like a little bit of chatter lol) https://motoiq.com/special-treatment-part-1-all-you-wanted-to-know-about-wpc/3/#:~:text=WPC works wonders on LSD,maintain speed while drifting better. https://wpctreatment.com/about.htm https://www.facebook.com/wpctreatment/photos/a.173652742667143/716767121689033/?type=3

I would go to a quality paint supply store and have them match the paint in person. Just having the paint code might not be exactly what your after if your paint has faded etc. I don't know where you are located but I've found VG Auto Paints & Tools in Girraween to be really good.

I think he is referring to the shock load that occurs on launch. Big sticky drag radials, engine on limiter/2 step, then bam, huge shock load through the drivetrain on launch.

Do you have an aftermarket ECU? If so I don't see how anyone would consider getting anything other then a dash that talks to the ECU over CAN in this day and age.

I use one of these, the picture quality is good provided there is light and you hold the camera steady. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/384797712333?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1zz0Be6vuSQaRZ5rCDMTA6Q23&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=384797712333&targetid=&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9069120&poi=&campaignid=15984321586&mkgroupid=&rlsatarget=&abcId=9300814&merchantid=7364522&gclid=CjwKCAjwwL6aBhBlEiwADycBIK5EbdejstPcx13b5IOGikCmoij2n0jYOPk0drs-nJ9vXj9pswi9VhoCRPMQAvD_BwE

It would help if the pictures you post are actually of your car.

Started with the easiest power steering fix first, popped a shim in the solenoid. I'm happy with the level of power steering assistance with that setup so I'm calling it all done!

Hi all, I was hoping there was someone out there running individual wheel speed sensors who wouldn't mind posting photos of there setup. In the back of my mind I always thought it would be easy to setup. Bracket off the diff housing, read the abs ring. Bracket off the front knuckle, read the back of the wheel studs.... All seemed like such a good plan until I read the sensor requirements on the spec sheet for the hall effect sensor. I'm looking for some insight, is anyone happy to share photos of their setup? These are the specs I was referring too - https://raceworks.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/LR-RWORKS-DATA-HAL-501.pdf

I wired the Haltech GPS signal output into the 2P / VSS ecu input - I think it's pin 16 on connector B. In the ECU manager software, in the main setup inputs, I changed the following - Calibration speed to 60 KPH and the pulses per KM to 5000 pulses. I didn't touch anything else and the speed was 100% accurate when measured against my phones GPS speed on Google maps. Shame you can't remember how you did your SGI box. I was driving around trying all of the different outputs on it, I tried a calibration similar to what your showing there... nothing. Speedo never budged when driving

I originally bought the SGI box so I would have a speed signal to the ECU. I was pretty confident that the Pro plug in couldn't read the raw gearbox speed signal and I was planning to use the SGI box to convert the raw gearbox signal to a square wave signal that the ECU could read. Yeah I'm surprised it doesn't come up more often when people are talking about deleting their dash. While I've been googling the issue, seems like the most common way it comes up is when people are deleting their HICAS ECU. I'm hoping the solution is something as simple as, send constant power to the rack.

I haven't been looking forward to this job but I can't put it off forever... Here is where I currently sit. Handbrake, parking lights, blinkers, high beam and fuel level signal all straight into the dash. Alternator exciter module - wired to switched 12V, charge light and my dash battery LED. This is the module I used - https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/alternator-excitor-led-warning-signal-module Haltech GPS module - wired to switched 12V, ground and the factory ECU speed signal input. Haltech Pro plug in calibration, in the vehicle speed, calibration speed 60KPH, 5000 pulses per KM. The calibration was perfect right off the bat. So, I originally planned to use the Dakota Digital SGI-100BT: Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface, to get my speed signal (the same way SLVRBAKSLPZ did) but I failed the idiot test and couldn't work out how to do it. This is what I tried - Into the SGI box I wired, switched 12V, ground, the VSS signal wire (pin 15) into the input and I tried every output into the ECU speed signal input. The SGI box lets you send a test signal, when I did this the speedo moved and I thought I was on a winner. When I started driving however, there was never a speed reading. Playing with every output and setting within the device, I couldn't get a speed output. Clearly I wired it up wrong... The instructions are far from helpful and appear to be written for someone that doesn't need instruction. Have a look, I'll post them here. So now the only thing that needs sorting is my power steering. The power steering is now permanently heavy which is a bit of a pain. If anyone has any ideas about how to tackle the power steering, please let me know. If SLVRBAKSLPZ wants to post up how he wired up and setup the SGI box, that would be amazing too.

If you can control the flow rate of the fuel pump, you can supply the required amount of fuel and limit the amount that needs to be returned by the fuel pressure regulator. I think the idea from Joshuaho96 was that you could keep the stock fuel pressure regulator by keeping the flow rate to something that it can handle. Another benefit might be that the fuel temperatures are kept lower. If you were say sitting idle in traffic with your fuel pump flowing full tilt, a lot of fuel will being pumped on an around the world trip through the engine bay, being heated and returning to the tank. So slowly the temperature of the fuel creeps up as more and more of these trips are completed. Having said all that, my fuel pump flows 525LPH and I have it setup to run full tilt all the time. I haven't had any issues and I've been doing this for many years. To save space in the engine bay I've got one of these which goes on the rail in the stock location. I don't think I'll ever outgrow it either, it can handle over 1,200LPH. http://www.radiumauto.com/DMR-Direct-Mount-Regulator-P1951.aspx

So even though I got the original blower motor working again, the ticking noise was a bit much. I took a chance on the patrol blower motor, works perfectly. The only difference is the connector location, however the connector reaches no problem. So a brand new blower motor for around half the cost of a used item. $45.30 well spent! https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133102428683 Please ignore the google search tags: Heater Fan Blower Motor For Nissan Patrol GU Y61 1997-2012 Air-conditioning Cabin - R33 skyline blower motor

If skylines are actually selling for what they are asking for on carsales, now might be the only time you can actually get what your car is worth. Very strong chance it would be the best R33 gtst in all of Aus on the market if you put it on carsales now

Please please please strongly consider picking up an IC7 dash rather then using the old school CAN gauge. That CAN gauge is not cheap and is very limited in it's display. The dash can display/output so much more plus it is sexy, makes coffee and cures cancer. I'm sure it also has other superpowers I haven't discovered yet.

This should help too.

The hoses can be bought in different sizes, just buy the correct size hose.

Just some more data from this setup as I wanted to change from e85 back to 98. Drove until there was about 15 litres left in the tank. Parked next to the fuel bowser and used the fuel pump to empty the tank (I'm glad the petrol station staff were cool, I checked with them that this was OK before hogging the bowser). Once the fuel pump stopped flowing fuel this was the result - 56 litres to fill the tank. Mixture went from e80 to e10. Slightly disappointed it couldn't draw up the last 9 or so litres in the tank, but it is what it is.

That sounds good too. I'm glad there are options for when the time comes to pull the trigger on the ECU upgrade and DBW setup.

Nismo 740cc side feed injectors up for sale. Less then 5000 km's on them. The injectors were getting very close to maxed at the power level shown (flirting with a bit over 90% duty cycle if my memory is correct). I've tuned stock, these Nismo's and ID1050X injectors now, I'm happy to discuss these in detail before a purchase is made if you like. I'm also happy to share my Haltech maps using these injectors. Price is $650 and location is Brisbane.

Best sounding? Serious speakers? Seeing as no budget was mentioned, have a look at these - https://focalaustralia.com.au/product/ultima-3-way-components/ Don't forget the amps to drive them!

From the Nankang website - Optimum operating window 71-104 degrees celsius Optimum camber settings between -1.0 to -3.0 degrees HOT Pressure settings <800kg 23 - 27.5psi 800-1000kg 24 - 32psi 1,000-1,400kg 27.5 - 37psi 1,400kg> 34 - 42psi If you are having handling issues, please see the table below which may resolve your issue, remember to do this in small increments at a time To reduce Over steer Reduce rear pressures or increase front pressures To increase Over steer Increase rear pressures or reduce front pressures To reduce Under steer Reduce front pressures or increase rear pressures To increase Under steer Increase front pressures or reduce rear pressures

No, the only thing stolen was the car. There are many different ways to have a car transferred into your name WITHOUT using the rego papers your talking about. Obviously I'm not going to mention how it is done, I don't need this to be some Fraud 101 guide. What I am saying is, everything can look on paper to be perfect, but really it isn't. Trust your instincts and use common sense.

No, the paperwork is real. In my scenario, all of the paperwork was real. What I'm saying is this: Car is towed away/stolen. Real paperwork gets lodged, title of car is transferred into thiefs name. Thief sells car, provides real paperwork to the buyer. Buyer lodges real paperwork transferring the car into their name. Previous owner of the car discovers their car has been stolen. Now there are 2 "owners" for the same car.