Murray_Calavera

What will you do when you want more power then this can flow?

It's not a R32 GTR, but hopefully still inspirational lol

I always thought stop start was so they could cheat on the emissions testing/fuel economy figures lol

I can only speak for myself, but they are in the bin! The radium setup with them in the rail is much tidier then having external dampers.

I have some bad news for you. What you experienced is a severe lean misfire. I imagine it felt like you were hitting the engine rev limiter. The reason why you couldn't increase the RPM further, is because at 4000 RPM, the mixture was so lean it was unable to ignite. An engine can still "run" while very lean, but to experience what happened to you, your mixture at that point would have been leaner then 19 AFR. When an engine leans out, it is highly susceptible to detonation/pinging and is the quickest way to kill your engine. If you are worried, have your mechanic put a bore scope in the cylinders and check the tops of the pistons for pitting. But at the end of the day, if it still runs, just forget it ever happened and move on.

It's one of these bad boys http://injectordynamics.com/id-f750-fuel-filter/ It can measure the fuel pressure drop across the filter so you know exactly when to change it - so fkn sexy!

You shouldn't need a diagram, it will take you 5 minutes to locate them all if the car is in the air. Locate the fuel pump hat, its in the boot hidden under a panel with 4 bolts. With the panel removed you can see the fuel lines. Those lines connect to hard lines that run along the length of the car. The hard lines connect to rubber lines that come up into the engine bay. You'll be able to see where they go very easily.

Yes, as everyone keeps saying, please replace your brand new fuel pump with a modern pump. Those tables look ok at a glance. Can't really offer much more commentary without the map and data log though. Rob's advice is even better again, I'd go down that path for sure.

I've got a very similar setup to you (radium rail, 1050's, etc). Just a heads up, the shorter fuel pulse damper fits in the rail. http://www.radiumauto.com/Assets/ProductImages/20-0776_FPD.jpg I used 2 of them in my rail, you can kinda see them if you squint.

Replace the fuel pump. Post your ESP map. Log every channel and go for a drive. Post your data log. You might be surprised to learn that there are many of us here that have built and tuned their own car. I don't know why you are fighting the advice as hard as you are. If your car is truly getting 65 litres per 100km, it should take me all of 5 seconds to see what is wrong in your tune if you post the map and data log.

It's very easy to explain, you can make a dyno show whatever power figure you want very easily. For all we know the car never really made a genuine 550rwhp, it's just what the dyno printout showed. I don't know why you are so focused on the past and what the car supposedly did in Japan. Why not just focus on the issues you have now and resolving those.

Just a FYI. The 044 is indeed gone mate. https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.com.au/blog/tech-product-overviews/the-044-is-dead-long-live-the-bosch-motorsport-200/#:~:text=After 28 years of setting,number%3A 0 580 254 044.

Post your ESP map. Log every channel and go for a drive. Post your data log.

Did you recently purchase that Bosch 044? That fuel pump was released about 30 years ago and has been discontinued by Bosch... Even if it isn't a fake, there is no reason to use this pump over a modern fuel pump. If a pump is advertised as "supporting 600HP" that does not guarantee that it will indeed support 600HP on your build. Also, certainly the HP rating of the pump is at the motor and not at the wheels. There is a huge difference in the fuel pump requirement between a big NA V8 on pump 98 making 600HP and a small 4 cylinder turbo on e85 running 40+psi boost making 600HP. In the defence of your 044, maybe it's 28 years old and has finally worn out lol. In any case replace the pump with something modern. I'd recommend starting with a Walbro 525 and going from there. You can always throw in a twin hanger and get a second one if need be later down the track. For $200 you can replace your dinosaur fuel pump and most likely resolve your issue. I don't understand why you are reluctant to do so.

I really want to know if any of these are selling for the asking price

Seeing as you've had to ask the question, it won't be any type of 'repair it yourself' answer. I would start visiting workshops that focus on classic vehicle restorations/coach building/body building. I would be surprised if your average panel beating workshop would be interested in making a repair like this and even if they were, personally I wouldn't trust that them not to take shortcuts in their quest of maximising profits. An example of the type of workshop I'm talking about is something like this - https://www.automotivecraftsmen.com.au/

Yep, I agree with this. It's probably worth stating it as my previous post makes it seem like I believe the opposite. So with my first motor, 100% stock, I got about 5 years out of it with street and track duties. I knew it wouldn't hold together forever with track use. The plan always was, when the motor gives up, I'll quickly drop in another stock motor and rebuild the first one. Hopefully I'll have another 5 years now to finish my build lol. When that motor gives up I'll have a built motor ready to go. The cycle will repeat again, built motor in, I'll start building the 2nd stock motor up and have a spare built motor ready to go.

What upgrades can you do? Heaps. Built motor (high comp pistons, rods, cams, etc), intake, exhaust, entire fuel system upgrade, ECU and tune it for e85. You'll probably want a lightened flywheel, might as well refresh the clutch while you're there... Once you've done all that and spent the good part of $30,000 I'd be very surprised if it was any faster then a completely stock RB25DET. If you want to swap parts from the RB25, you'll find the entire RB25DET swaps over very well.

Are you talking about engine only or all the parts required to make 350kw? If you're talking engine only, my unopened engine makes that power easily on e85. So "required" parts, technically none? lol But yeah if you want a list of everything required to make that power, as the others have said, best to do a search as there are a million ways to achieve that power level.

You don't have to swap the motor, just add one or more of these - Turbo. Spray. Supercharger. Oh, I see this is in the naturally aspirated performance forum... hmmm. Keep the motor, turn the body into this -

Surely a M1 Motec can control your auto.

This setup will work and be an improvement over the factory speed sensor (quicker to respond and more accurate). https://shop.ostdyno.com/shop/shop/nissan-skyline/engine-management/r32-gtr-auxiliary-speed-sensor-kit/ If you want a simple plug and play option, this will work too. https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-011310-gps-speed-input-module/

Sure. I'm an anybody. I've included some handy colour coded arrows to assist with your enquiry. Red = engine body earth cable Yellow = alternator ground wire. In the pictures you can see that the engine body earth cable and alternator ground wire both connect at the same point, they are stacked. The same way the wiring diagram shows that they are stacked. Now when looking at the pictures, don't be distracted by the fuel filter. It is fkn sexy, but focus on the arrows and the ground wire. Also the Kryptalon fuel lines are pretty sexy too, don't be distracted by that either. If you need any more pictures of my engine by, you can hit up my onlyfans account.

Sounds like a plan. Hopefully there aren't any issues getting your mates spare time. I had a car sitting in a workshop for over 5 years that was meant to happen between jobs at mates rates... it's now been sold for parts

lol that was my first thought too.