Murray_Calavera

It could still be bottoming out on the bump stop. This is a really good (and short!) video explaining what I'm talking about -

Sounds like you've found a used part? If the price is right, say around $200 - $300 and they are not leaking and there is nothing else that is obviously wrong with them, this is a good value option. If the king springs are progressive spring rate, they will be even comfier for the street. It's all money at the end of the day, if you spend more you'll get more. If there is any chance you see yourself taking the car to the track, I'd very strongly consider saving up for a set of MCA/Shockworks coilovers. It is possible to have a comfortable ride on the street while still performing well on track. Also, it might be worth looking into how your ride height has been setup with your current coilovers. There is a chance that they've been setup in a way that has drastically reduced your suspension travel, so the harshness your feeling is actually just the suspension bottoming out (if this is the case it can be easily sorted).

It was crazy the amount of locals I met that drank the bore water straight out of the tap =/ Its funny now that I think about it, all the day trips I did into Dubbo, I never drank the tap water. I just drove the 4 hours each way and didn't say the night in Dubbo, so didn't really have the chance to be exposed to it. Based on the size of Dubbo, I always assumed the water would have been like Sydney water, guess not lol.

I'm guessing your mechanic will say, if you can buy a complete control arm, just do that. But yeah, ask them and see what they say.

Quick google found this - https://whiteline.com.au/search/product/steering-suspension/suspension/bushings/bushings-for-2010-nissan-skyline/front-control-arm-lower-inner-bushing-kit-to-suit-nissan-350z-skyline-and-stagea-9986-w52991-167168-pid-175615.html?mv=(make%3D[NISSAN]%26model%3D[SKYLINE]%26year%3D[2010])&vehicle=33951-277391 https://whiteline.com.au/search/product/steering-suspension/suspension/bushings/bushings-for-2010-nissan-skyline/front-control-arm-upper-bushing-kit-to-suit-nissan-350z-370z-and-skyline-9986-w52988-167167-pid-175614.html?mv=(make%3D[NISSAN]%26model%3D[SKYLINE]%26year%3D[2010])&vehicle=33951-277391

Yeah, that's why I do everything myself now.

If you think your local water is bad, I pray you never experience bore water in an outback town lol.

Did you measure the original part you removed for comparison?

If you get a chance to do before/after dyno runs when you throw the real cats in I would be super keen to see the results

BCPR7ES. I change them every 20,000 kms. A search will probably dig up quite a few threads on what spark plugs to use.

Yeah, I'm betting a combination of fuel pump is positioned higher then the factory pump and the filter/sock is shorter then the factory sock. Have a look at the frenchys performance garage hanger setup, they generally position the fuel pump nice and low so would be a good comparison for however you set your pump up.

That is a good point. The closest thing I can think of is this episode of Might Car Mods, where they made 425KW with the exhaust valve closed, then opened the valve and made the same 425KW. (around 19 min into the video). I would think having the exhaust valve closed would be more restrictive then say going from 100 to 300 cell cat? But yeah I'm still guessing.

Has anyone seen dyno runs back to back while cats were swapped to see their impact? I would strongly consider putting in a better cat (I'm using 100 cell too) if I could be sure it wasn't having a large impact on performance. Side note, @Dose Pipe Sutututu what are your thoughts on building a 1 series 135i? The entry price seems pretty reasonable for the earlier models and look like a pretty good base to start working from. (But then again I don't know anything about BWM's and I'm basing this off looking at a spec sheet and car sales prices lol)

What a fantastic idea for a street car. Why don't you also bin the air conditioning, heater core and all their associated parts as well? You might almost find another 20kgs there too! If it is a street car, I don't think there is any realistic way to reduce the weight in a meaningful way while still retaining pleasant street manners. The OEM wasn't trying to add weight for fun, they don't like weight either - yet the car you have is the best they could manage while still being a pleasant street car. If your reason for lowering the weight is to improve performance, then just do that. Add power, sort the suspension and run the stickiest tyres you're prepared to live with. An R35 GTR probably weighs more then your car... Probably performs a little bit better too.

That would make a lot more sense. If that car that the OP linked there was a NA RWD Stagea, the weight reduction numbers would line up perfectly, a whole 20kgs of interior removed brining the car to 1500kgs.

Has all the obvious stuff been done, wheel nuts are tight, you've put the car on jack stands and given the wheels a good shake and inspected all the suspension components to ensure everything is nice and tight?

If you stripped out the entire interior, and I mean everything, it would not even weigh 220kgs. Whoever this 'guy' is that claims to have achieved 1500kg while still having you know, a dash and at least a drivers seat, is clearly full of $hit. So rather then just referring to some 'guy', I'll talk from personal experience. I stripped my swift down to a dash and driver / front passenger seat. When you look up, bare metal. When you look down, bare metal, when you look back, bare metal everywhere. It saved fk all weight. I weighed stuff as it came out. I saved maybe 20kgs? Turns out plastic trim pieces and foam seats don't weigh much. Go figure. Sound deadening and carpet was around 10kgs. My R33 is half stripped. Everything from the driver/front passenger seat is stock. Look over your shoulder, everything in the back is bare metal. The only reason I did this was to fit a half cage and make adjusting the rear coilovers easier. I had learnt from my previous experience that there is fk all weight to be removed from inside the car and it is not worth doing.

Just as a visual. When you turn this - Into this - You save about 300kgs.

So you want to pull 220kg to 320kg worth of material out of the car? That is an absolutely huge range, kinda like saying you want to make somewhere between 400kw to 1500kw from the motor. As you start to pull weight out of the car, every next kg gets harder and more expensive to achieve. Even on your conservative, 220kg weight reduction goal, it's 100% not realistic. Even if you said you were happy to spend $100,000 to achieve that goal it wouldn't happen... Unless you turn it into a death kart. Then sure I'm sure you'll find 220-320kgs of material to cut out.

Absolute worst case, you could ship your box of parts to a specialist workshop over here who you can be confident will do a good job.

It would be so much cheaper to just buy an evo or similar light weight car. Removing weight to the point that it is noticeable in the way the car drives will be an eye watering expense.

Have you not read the ecu wiring diagram/pinout?

Can you overlay his/your data with the Garmin to see where you are losing time?

That is a super open question, really comes down to your goals and budget. It's very easy to say buy an Artec manifold and a Garrett G series turbo, but unless your happy to spend about $6,000 on those 2 parts alone, well your not going to get very far lol. Maybe have a look at RB25 turbo results thread for inspiration.

We are talking about fitting an aftermarket part, you do what is needed to make it work. If the rod needs a bend, bend it. If it's the wrong length, get the correct length rod. If you don't want to do any of this, pay for a kit that is bolt on - https://gcg.com.au/actuator-assembly-nissan-rb20det-rb25det-billet-dual-port-xtrwga-bdp-rb25.html Obviously though that kit is for the stock turbo, you change the turbo you'll need to change the wastegate setup to suit the new turbo. As for what wastegate you should get, the only real reason for getting the Turbosmart wastegate is to be able to change your base spring pressure. There is a very strong chance you'll never need to do that. Lets say you buy a Hypergear high flow turbo and you want to run about 18psi. You can tick the box for the higher pressure actuator and that's it. You don't even need a boost controller and you have your 18psi. Say you want some adjustment. You buy the same Hypergear high flow turbo, but this time you get a 14.7psi wastegate spring. With a 3 port MAC valve you could theoretically take the boost up to about 30psi with that setup. Not happy with that range of adjustment? You could get a 7psi wastegate spring, use a 4 port MAC valve and take the boost up to about 30psi. So now you can run anything between 7psi and 30psi without changing your wastegate spring. My advice is if you don't know why you want to change the wastegate base spring pressure, don't buy the expensive Turbosmart wastegate. Have a think about what the min and max boost levels you would like to run, then buy a wastegate/spring/MAC valve that supports that goal. If I had a crystal ball, I'd probably see you buying a Hypergear turbo, using their high pressure actuator, using an aftermarket ECU and a 3 port MAC valve for boost control.