Murray_Calavera

Trying to stop it from getting worse = use fish oil Band aid fix = wire wheel / light grinding to remove visible rust, use rust converter, reseal and repaint Proper fix = you go digging and keep chasing the rust, all metal with rust is cut out. New metal is welded in. Seal and paint.

I'd be looking at MCA or Shockworks.

Correct, it's not superficial. It's very common unfortunately I just went crazy with the fish oil in my car and am doing lots of fingers crossed nothing gets worse. When the time comes I'll start hitting up workshops like this - and have everything restored better then factory. When it comes time to pay I'll just close my eyes and give them a credit card. http://olschoolgarage.com.au/

As a rough guide - Street driving? Every 5,000km. Track use? Some do it after each track event.

What frequency do you run yours at?

Yep, use the factory wiring. I haven't checked the pinout for your ECU, but I'd be amazed if it wasn't setup to use the factory wiring for the MAC valve.

Your high boost setting should be tuned to be completely safe to use. Your ECU should have engine protection setup so that you shouldn't have to worry about anything blowing up if something was to go wrong. (but hey, not all tuners bother setting up engine protection. My car had a Haltech pro plugin when I bought it, and whoever tuned it previously didn't bother setting up any engine protection). Just had a quick look at the Link CAN gauge manual, looks like it's just the normal CAN wiring and an additional +12 volt if you want the gauge to dim when you turn on your headlights. Very easy to wire up.

Ok nice, makes sense. As you are paying for labour/tuning, I would just have the boost set to 23psi and forget the missile switch or any other method of turning it down to 18psi. That small a change in boost levels will have only a minor effect on how the car actually behaves in the real world. Power will go from what, 360kw down to 330kw? If the car was being used on the street, I dare say you couldn't tell the difference between the two boost settings. And paying $400 to have a near useless option, oof that's painful. When I'm talking about a CAN gauge, I'm talking about something like this - https://otakugarage.com.au/product/link-can-gauge-oled-52mm/ I would get a CAN gauge to monitor things like boost levels, AFR mixtures, fuel pressure, oil pressure, coolant pressure, oil temps, coolant temps, air temps, etc etc. Some of these things might not interest you now, however it might in future and you'll always have that option available to you. You can't make changes to the ECU though the gauge, you'd want a CAN keypad for that - https://linkecu.com/link-can-keypads-have-arrived/ The keypad will allow you to cycle through options that the tuner has setup in the ecu. For example, multiple boost levels, say 12psi, 18psi and 23psi. Having a range like that could be nice, however if it's a street car I can't ever see you turning the boost down lol. The keypad can also be used to say activate antilag or launch control etc. Ok the TLDR version - When the car is tuned, I would only have 1 boost setting which is, all the boost. I would use the ECU to control the boost with a 3 port MAC valve. I would buy a digital dash or CAN gauge and bin every other gauge currently in the car.

Sorry, I don't think I understand what you are trying to tell me. So your currently thinking about having a missile switch, with switch off = 18psi and switch on = roughly 21/23psi? But you also said you don't want to control the boost and will never adjust the boost levels, what do you want the missile switch to do? Ok, you would like to know how much boost your running on a digital display. I think this is a terrible reason to buy an eboost. The money would be better used being put towards a digital dash (or CAN gauge if you love your factory dash cluster). No need to worry about seeing a lower value on the gauge with this setup, the value on the dash/CAN gauge is the same value the ECU is seeing.

@IM-32-FK What is the lowest boost and highest boost setting you'd like to run? What is your reason for wanting to control the boost? (e.g. track driving and wanting to lower the power if it starts to rain) How often do you think you'll be adjusting the boost levels?

I wouldn't mind reading more rant, that was quite eye opening.

Oops double post.

@IM-32-FK I think it's been pretty well covered off above so I'll just add a little story. I recently did a drift event, there was a skyline at essentially stock power levels (stock turbo, stock ecu) with that fan setup and it was overheating on each run. After each run the driver was using a pump water spray bottle to cool down the radiator/engine bay. My car at around 350kw didn't crack 80 degrees water temp with the stock fan/shroud.

I have their engine building and wiring courses, they are very high quality. I didn't buy their tuning videos because there is a much much cheaper option - https://evansperformanceacademy.vhx.tv/ As soon as you subscribe, you get access to every course on the site. I subscribed for 1 month about 5 years ago, learnt everything I needed to tune my car within that month. Since then a mountain of new content had been added, so about 1 year ago I subscribed for another month and got caught up on the new content. I'll probably re-subscribe for another month in a few years time lol. Such amazing value from their subscription model.

All good mate. If your scared that you will blow your motor up tuning, probably the best comparison I can make is, people that are scared of going to the track because they think "they will put their car into the wall". Well, you never stop being the one in control of the car so yeah, don't drive beyond your limits and you won't hit the wall. Same goes for tuning. You're in control of the tuning, don't do something you don't understand. You can ask for help from us here, learn from resources online, and make changes that make sense to you. Also you'll have engine protection setup which is an amazing safety net for when you are road tuning. You'd be surprised how difficult it actually is to pop a motor tuning. I'm not trying to pressure you into tuning, what I'm really trying to say is it's very easy to learn, will save you a lot of money, you'll know what is actually in your tune (did your tuner even turn on engine protection??), you can adjust your tune based on how you are using the car (changing track conditions etc), as you make further mods you can touch up the tune as you go, and probably the most important bit, it's really fun I'll stop rambling now.

If you have a cheap laptop and are willing to learn, you could be tuning within a week or 2. I'm a very strong advocate of people learning to work on and tune their own cars. You save an absolute fortune (in your case you save about $5,200) which can be used on more parts/tyres/fuel/track day fees. I'd like to say build the car yourself, but that's easier said then done. Not everyone has a garage and tools are expensive. I get that. But when it comes to tuning, all you need is a cheap laptop. If your willing to learn, you can 100% do it. I'm happy to explain step by step how I learnt to tune. I'm sure there would be others here that know how to tune that also would gladly share their experience. I'm happy to share maps and for you to send me maps for feedback as well. Again I'm sure others here would do the same.

Would you consider learning to tune yourself? It's not a hard skill to learn.

Sounds like your paying for labour and paying a tuner?

I hope you never actually test this, but what are your thoughts on that harness bar and how it mounts, how do you think it would hold up in a big collision doing eastern creek main straight speeds? I worry because I look at how CAMS spec out their bolt in cage requirements and harness mounting requirements (eg the plate that goes through the floor for the 5/6 point harness strap etc). 100% your car and your freedom to do what you think is best... but I still worry =/

Why would you want to tune the car on e60-e70? I don't think anyone said it was bad or pointless to use a flex sensor if running pump e85 100% of the time. I would say the summary is closer to - * Yes you can run the car on pump e85 without a flex sensor * There are benefits to using a flex sensor even if you are always on pump e85. It's up to you if you think those benefits are worth the very small outlay to install the flex sensor.

If you were 100% sure that you will never ever run anything other then pump e85, then sure you could get away without running a flex sensor. Lets say the car was tuned on a tank of e80 and everything was setup perfectly on that %blend, as you drove the car and the ethanol content varied from e70 to e85 depending on what the fuel bowser was filled with at the time, you would not notice any change in how the car behaves. It would make the same power and drive exactly the same regardless of if it was currently at e70 or e85 or anything in-between. The only way you would notice anything is if you had a dash/gauge telling you that something was different, e.g. AFR is currently 11.3 however when tuned it was 11.5 under the same circumstances. These small changes will be impossible to feel in the way the car actually performs. So, should you use the flex sensor? I'd say yes, even if it was just to give you the option to use pump 98. There might be a situation in the future you haven't accounted for where you run out of e85 or it's not available for whatever reason, now at least you can still run the car happily on 98.

I'd go the 50mm gate. The 45 might do everything you want, but it would be such a pain in the arse to do all the work fitting it, only to find out its a little too small for what you want. For the small outlay at the start, I'd play it safe and just go with the 50mm gate. Side note, that's a pretty sexy build you've got in the works.

It's basically Hollywood isn't it? I mean look at this! You can see the car on the dyno, see the data from the log.... 600KPA target. More like 82KPA target and a bunch of YouTube Hollywood magic showing fake numbers and fake data, right?

Yeah I doubt these 6 second 200+mph cars are running the boost they say they are. I mean look at this guy claiming he is running 90+psi of boost and a 250 shot. Why can't they just be honest and say they are really running 12psi of boost.

How is the car going to be used? Depending on that answer, upgraded pads/rotors might be all you need.