Murray_Calavera

Another vote here for half cage. Helps stiffen up the car nicely too.

Let us know what your thoughts are after you try out the gloves.

I've never played with them in person, probably a question for Invidia or the retailer.

Close, they are 200 cell.

I'll just leave these videos here...

So now you need to price in a manual conversion as well lol

Sounds good, I think I'm on the same page as you now. Working with your current list, I would consider going for the Link FuryX over the Xtremex. You'll want wideband o2 support, if you buy the Xtremex you'll need to buy a wideband controller which will likely cost more then the price difference between the 2 ECUs. Start having a think about what you are going to do fuel setup wise and what sensors you'll want to run. These costs can blow out crazy quickly. I'm not saying to do this, but just as an example of what you could do, all prices are from Haltech's website (because I'm a Haltech fanboy lol) - Fuel temp/pressure sensor $218 Oil temp/pressure sensor $218 Coolant temp/pressure sensor $218 Flex sensor $287 4 bar MAP sensor $219 Air temp sensor $59 Wideband o2 sensor $230 That's $1,449 just in sensors. It's a similar situation for the fuel system, it can get expensive surprisingly quickly. What brand of rail or will you keep it stock? What injectors? You could spend over 1k on the injectors alone. What fuel pressure reg? what lines will you use? You could use Kryptalon hose, it's about $100 a meter for -8 then suddenly your fittings are $50 a pop. Start adding up how many fittings you'll need and things get silly quickly. Of course there are lots of other expenses to consider, but off the top of my head those are the 2 that can be surprisingly expensive.

That price I listed was for a high flow turbo, have a closer look at the hypergear website. Sure a basic highflow starts at $950, but that means you don't want a ball bearing CHRA, you don't want to run high boost, you don't want the most powerful option. In any case, as long as mentally you have accepted that this journey is likely going to run you 20k, then it's fine for you to delude yourself that you can do it all for 6k. The reality is you'll just end up with a car that doesn't run due to missing XYZ parts and you can either set it back to stock or keep spending to finish it off. On a side note, I'm a little scared to ask but I am curious, what is the nasty china intake manifold can be had for $500?

Link Engine Management G4X Xtremex - $2,634.50 Hypergear high flow (tick options for big boy power, ball bearing CHRA, high pressure actuator) $2,070 Just those 2 parts are $4,704.50. How are you getting everything else on that list for $1,295.50?

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/3-port-mac-valve-boost-control-solenoid

If we consider these as factors, your car is currently stock, you buy a quality inlet and quality high mount exhaust manifold, you pay for tuning and wiring, I don't think you will pull this build off for less then 20k. If you go low mount, keep the stock inlet and exhaust manifolds, yeah it could be done for sub 20k. Things get a lot more affordable if you learn to wire up the car and learn to tune. Neither are hard things to do, just takes a bit of time to learn. If you were doing all of the work, wiring and tuning you might be able to pull off the high mount setup for 20k.

Are you happy to spend 20k on this build? It sounds like you'll be doing the mechanical work yourself and paying for any wiring and tuning involved? Is that correct?

The crank collar is an engine out job, is the engine currently in the bay? What are your thoughts on aiming for around 450kw? It will still be quite responsive and the high mount turbo and all the other parts will then make sense. The funny thing is, what you are describing to build vs a 450kw setup will be very similar in price.

I'm guessing you already found this option? https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/Invidia-Catted-Test-Pipe-Nissan-350Z-Z33-07-09/370Z-Z34/Infiniti-G37-V36/FX30/FX50/QX70-HS09N7ZTPC

Lets start taking bets. I'll put my money on high flow cats.

Yeah ok, so have a think about it. What is sound? A vibration that propagates as an acoustic wave? When the pad and disc make contact, there is vibration. That vibration causes your lovely high pitched noise. The shims prevent the transmission of vibration. No vibration, no noise. Now lets keep thinking about the situation. You are an OEM. You are trying to make a profit. Why would you manufacture all of these unnecessary brake shim hardware if it does nothing? Is that money well spent? Look at all of the stock cars around you. They are dead quiet. They have brake shims/hardware. Your skyline came from the factory with quiet brakes. It also came with brake shims/hardware installed. If you cannot install the brake shims/hardware, clean off all of the built up brake dust. If you still can't install it, get your hands on a workshop manual, instructions, watch youtube videos or just take the car to a mechanic who can do it for you. It's a 5 second job so should be very cheap to do.

Your oil pump does not know how much oil is in the sump. Your oil pump is driven by the crank, the faster the crank spins the faster your pump spins. What your saying is correct, that's why having the extended and baffled sump will be an advantage. You'll have more oil in your sump with that setup.

It really depends on how you plan to use the car on track. Do you want to do 20 minutes sessions on R comp tyres on the track flat out the entire time? This will need plenty of cooling upgrades and the BBK will be 100% needed for this scenario. Are you happy to do 2 or 3 laps flat out then let the car cool down before going flat out again? This scenario is much easier to achieve and could be handled on upgraded rotors/pads no problem.

It would only be a benefit to add the extended and baffled sump, regardless of any other oil control mods you currently have. Having said that, if the engine is currently in the car, yeah it's a bit of a ball-ache to install the sump. I imagine most will do all of their oil control mods after they pop their first engine and it needs to come out for a refresh.

It's not really the extended sump causing issues, but the higher flowing oil pump that normally goes along with the extended sump. If the head can only drain at X but the bigger pump is flowing Y into the head, you get the idea. So the issue of oil pooling in the head needs to be addressed. I believe both the Lewis modified sump and the Aeroflow sump have fittings to allow you to vent the sump to the catch can. This is the main issue, blow-by builds in the bottom on the motor slowing the return/drain of oil from the head. Up to you if you want to do anything further like head drain/enlarged oil returns/oil restrictors in the head/etc What oil pump will you be using?

I know Nelson Racing Engines like to do dual fuel/octane on demand for their monster street cars (2,000+ hp) https://nelsonracingengines.com/blogs/nelson-racing-engines-projects/69-camaro Wish I had the money for a NRE built car, they are works of art!

I picked up my gloves from Revolution Racegear in Auburn. https://revolutionracegear.com.au/

@Dose Pipe Sutututu 40 + 10 micron sounds good to me. That's the filter I'm using. This is my setup, ignore the yellow circles, they were for an unrelated thread.

Yep, agreed. I thought 5 micron at 88% efficient was quite good. I don't know of a filter that does a better job, if I did I would have gotten that one instead lol

Closest I've seen is something like this - Which is printed by Mako Motorsport https://makomotorsport.com.au/collections/nissan/products/nissan-skyline-r32-dash-mount-custom