Murray_Calavera

Well not really, 2-step doesn't care if you have 1 or 2 turbos. It will function the same either way, it will let you build boost while stationary. You should be concerned, it will 100% hurt your engine in the long run. But you want to shoot flames and have crazy pops/bangs yeah? lol.

Sounds like all you want is a button on your CAN dash pad that is for 2-step / anti lag launch. Hold the button down, rev limit gets set to whatever you want, say 5000 rpm. Then mass timing is pulled and a heap of fuel is dumped in for fun times. Want more bangs and flames, pull more timing or add more fuel or both lol. Obviously the more you use the fun button, the shorter the life of the entire hot side of your motor. So valves, turbo, cat, any sensors in the exhaust, etc etc. Well, if you are using it for its intended purpose it is very rewarding. If you are at the drags and want to launch on full boost, how else are you going to do that?

I promise it will get done as soon as I can, but that is still probably 3 months away.

Ok, I've just ordered the high amp flanged kit from EFI Hardware. Once it's installed, I'll go for progressively longer/harder drives and I'll check the temp of the terminals with the heat gun. If there are any issues with temp, I'll drop in the Walbro 460 which should draw about 5 less amps and I'll repeat the process checking temps. Also I'll make sure to take some high res photos of my crimps this time =P

Just looking at the instructions for these Efi hardware terminals, is anyone able to explain to me why the diameter of the hole must be specifically between 8.1 and 8.2 mm? If the post is 6mm, and you drill say a 7mm hole, how could this possibly cause an issue? In any case, the more I read these instructions, the more I think I want to give them a go. https://www.efihardware.com/download/237/866-033_M6_Bulkhead_Terminal_High_Amp

Those exact ones, with the hex head on the plastic insulators and the metal flange?

Any chance you are talking about the flanged area in the picture above as the 'landing on the bulkhead'? If so the Taarks kit doesn't have that. The ring terminal is slightly larger then the stud, I would not describe those two as making good contact with each other. My assumption was, the good contact comes from the 2 washers on either side of the ring terminal making a good connection, and the washers make a good connection with the nut, which makes a good connection with the stud. I'm guessing this was an incorrect assumption?

Just stumbled on this, sounds interesting - https://www.efihardware.com/products/3194/submersible-bulkhead-terminals-hex-head "Hex cup versions enable Insulating sealing cups to be torqued up against each other ensuring a tight seal eliminating bad resistance resulting in excessive heat from high amperage." When I installed the Taarks kit, I tried my best to tighten down the white plastic insulating , but they are round and threaded. So unfortunately the nuts don't cause them to clamp down due to the thread and I couldn't grip them very well to torque them down. I'd say they are only finger tight each side. The nuts however were torqued down well on each side. Just reading the Efi hardware site further, it just gets worse. So essentially they are saying the Taarks kit is only rated to 10 amps and should not be used on a plastic bulkhead. They recommend this connector that has the added flange on it for a plastic bulkhead -

Sounds good, what temperature range would you expect if everything is healthy? It's coming I promise, it just has to wait a little bit first. I don't really have the time to set it up at the moment. Yeah, surprised me too. Everything I read rated those ring terminals quite high. Perhaps the issue was with me bending the ring terminal about 90 degrees? Yep, the Taarks kit comes with nyloc nuts. This photo of the kit shows it pretty well. I'm not quite sure what you mean by having enough landing for the ring terminal though? As for the crimps, they are solid. I've crimped a million connectors in my car before, all the sensors, my dash, the quick connect terminals on my battery etc. Correct, but both are rated for the use. The wire inside the tank is 12 gauge Tefzel wire, it's rated for 25 amps continuous. The wire on the outside is 25 amp Jaycar wire. I only use Tefzel when I don't expect the change the wiring any time soon. As I expect to change the wiring outside the tank in the near future to setup PWM, I don't want to waste Tefzel wire. The ring connectors would be from either Supercheap or Jaycar. I triple checked it, the nuts were tight on both side of the bulkhead.

This might be another option too if the surgery allows for a straight lug to be used. Jaycar rates them at 30 amps - https://www.jaycar.com.au/6mm-non-insulated-eye-terminal-4mm2-pack-of-8/p/PT4932

@GTSBoy Makes sense. I'm guessing we'd have to use a cable lug, its tricky finding lugs suited for wire smaller then 0 gauge, but this looks like it might work? https://au.element14.com/panduit/lca10-10f-l/terminal-compression-lug-10-10awg/dp/2944903?CMP=KNC-GAU-GEN-SHOPPING-PLA-PMAX&mckv=_dc|pcrid||pkw||pmt||slid||product|2944903|pgrid||ptaid||&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw4ri0BhAvEiwA8oo6F3hR5QEQH43vntEUad27nYgwWzBmgdiYNqiQLBMe3C9pkkncxgv3oRoCciEQAvD_BwE Just need to do some surgery on the bottom of the bulkhead as even fitting the tiny ring connectors space is tight. But now that I'm in this situation, do I buy another stock bulkhead and give the bigger lugs a go or do I just drop $1000 on a frenchy setup? Hmmm.

So I decided to return to the parking lot with tools and a fuel pump thinking what else could it be at this stage? Umm yeah, really didn't think this was going to happen so soon (or hopefully at all).... Didn't even get 2 weeks out of the Taarks bulkhead terminals. Rated to 40 amps apparently. I'm running a 25 amp fuse in that circuit so that's interesting.

The car hates me. I'm 100% sure it's become sentient and actually hates me. Cold start this morning, perfect. Cold start after finishing work, perfect. Didn't go straight home, parked at the shops.... go back to the car for a hot start, nothing. Pump doesn't prime. Currently waiting for the car to cool down, fingers crossed it starts again once it's cold again.

If it actually sounds like this, could be a blown head gasket. Not having any overheating issues are you?

That looks like a really good price. I didn't call around, so I was relying on this for pricing - https://www.beaurepaires.com.au/tyres/yokohama/yokohama-advan-neova-ad09 Have you put many K's on them? Any chance you'd be able to estimate how many K's you'll get out of them? I suppose this is the big difference, if I'm taking the skyline out it's for a fun drive and fuel economy / preserving the tyres are not really front of mind lol. I had read so much on other forums as well where people were saying how long lasting the RS4's were on track that I think my expectations were probably just set to high.

They are eye-wateringly expensive though I could get 2 sets of RS4 and have change, for the same price as a set of AD09.

I can't remember the offset of the wheels, but my street rims are 17 x 7.5 front 8.5 rear. My track rims are 17 x 8 front 9 rear. This seems like madness to me as my 17x8 rims rub with 235/45 tyres on them. The street rims however are perfect. I do run 19mm steering rack spacers which makes things a little trickier, but yeah I just can't picture fitting another 1.5 inches of rim in there lol.

So I've had the RS4's on for about 2,000km now. I really love them, they are "pull the painted surface off the cement" levels of sticky. Small problem though, I'm going through them at a rate of 1mm of tread depth per 1,000km. This is the same wear rate I was getting with the 120 treadwear NS2R tyres (however I like the RS4 more then the NS2R). I'm looking for recommendations. I don't know if this tyre exists, ideally I'd like 15,000 to 20,000km from the tyre (keeping in mind RS4 is on track to give me about 8,000km) while still having acceptable levels of grip. I don't expect to be able to hook up 350kw and still get this mileage, really what I'd like is to have similar levels of turn in/responsive steering input when compared with the RS4. I'm kinda thinking maybe I should try something like Pilot Sport 5? Dunno. 17 inch rims also limits the choices a bit too.

I am amazed that you have 9.5 inch wide rims on the front! What size tyres are they paired with? How much negative camber do you run? What has been done to the guards?

@Duncan That's good to know. The luck I've been having with the car lately, a part of me was thinking something has gone wrong which is why the voltage is lower now.

Ok, update time. So while solving my fuel pump / melted connector issue, I thought I'd see what voltage I was getting with the factory connector bottleneck removed and the EFI Solutions bulkhead terminals installed. Started the car, battery voltage was bouncing between 13.6 and 13.7 while at fast idle (cold start). Huge improvement over the 12.8 to 13.0 previously. I then installed the ARD 150 amp alternator, on cold start it was bouncing between 13.9 and 14.0. Here is the mystery, I went for a drive and now the battery voltage is 13.5 with the ARD alternator setup. I suppose I'm happy with this, it's rock solid at 13.5 but I can't help but wonder if the factory alternator would have performed just as well. If anyone can explain the mystery difference in voltage on the first cold start 14 volts vs 13.5 I'm now getting while driving, it would be much appreciated!

The diff is adjustable, how mine is setup, on the track? I think it's perfect. It locks up super quick, is consistent and reliable. On the street? I also think it's perfect lol. So, on the street doing low speed turns, think parking lot, you get cute little diff clunks and tyre chirp occasionally. I really like the character, I'm guessing these clunks and chirps are a lot more tame then what your currently experiencing. As for the diff oil, in my swift I ran a Cusco RS 1.5 way diff, it took me a while to find a gearbox/diff oil that made the diff happy. The wrong oil made it feel like the diff was trying to violently eject itself out of the gearbox pretty much at all times. It was a nightmare. Good news, Motul gear FF-LSD oil tamed the diff down 100%, the bad news is the cost of the oil I'd say try using something like this first and see how you go - https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nulon-nulon-ezy-squeeze-heavy-duty-limited-slip-differential-oil---80w-140-1-litre/577669.html#q=NULON%2BEZY-SQUEEZE%2BDifferential%2BOil&lang=en_AU&start=4 I use this diff oil, feels the same as running the Nismo oil without the Nismo price tag. As for additives, when I was on my swift diff adventure, no additive I tried made any real difference. I don't know if you'd have the same experience (having the diff separate from the gearbox makes life infinitely easier, so maybe there is something out there that might help but I'd for sure try the above diff fluid before worrying about additives).

What diff oil are you currently using? I'm using a Nismo GT Pro diff, let me know if you have any specific questions. I've had it in the car for something like 10 years now, it's been perfect the entire time.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu Sounds good. Just double checking with the pull up resistor indicated in haltech's info sheet for their SSR - https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-030202-solid-state-relay-100-amp/ I'm guessing that would only be if the ECU did not have an internal pull up resistor? Their instructions are pretty strongly worded lol "1K pull-up resistor MUST be fitted."

Just checking, with this would you need anything else to get yourself up and running? Do I need a flyback diode, pull up resistors or anything else?