Murray_Calavera

I hate to say it, but this isn't a 'great length' to steal a car. The people that steal high value cars are very used to stealing cars from garages. It really isn't a complicated process, a lot of people leave their keys in very typical places (think bowl/rack by the front door). You break into the house, grab the key and off you go. So what, in about 1 minutes time they have taken the car? Probably goes without saying that most of these cars being pinched in this manner are the higher end Audi/AMG/etc. It's the same process though regardless of whatever the car is. If you're worried about this, keep your car out of sight. If no one knows its in the garage, no one is coming for it. Other things include if you have an aftermarket ECU, change a setting so the car won't start even with the keys, setup CCTV cameras that ping your phone on activation etc. If you think it's hard to break into a house to grab the keys first, just picture the fire fighters coming to recuse someone from a burning house. It's what, 10 seconds to gain entry if that? Locks only help honest people stay honest.

That's my experience too. Before I had a CAN based wideband, I always used an AEM wideband (I wouldn't be surprised if I was using one for over 10 years without issue).

Which ones? (there are a few types of pilot sport tyres lol)

Lots of good comments in this thread, I'll just throw this bit on top. With semi's in the rain, there are a few things to think about - * Getting temperature into the tyres is really important for making semi's hook up. Driving in the rain on a cold winter night will be very different to driving in the rain on a hot summers day. * Semi's wear fast, tread depth has a big impact on how well they will hook up in the wet. Semi's don't have sipes so they need all the tread depth they can get to help evacuate the water. * Not all semi's will work in the rain, regardless of temp/tread depth. Think Ventus Z214 vs Nankang NS2R. If you want to use them in the rain, I'd want to get some real world examples of them working in the wet first. I've used Nankang NS2R 120TW year round in wet/dry conditions, in the rain on a hot summers day up here in QLD, it's a fantastic tyre. The best tyre I've driven on in the rain. I could actually put power down which amazed me. On a cold day in the wet, they couldn't get enough temp into them to become optimal, however I wouldn't say they were dangerous. Think closer to a shitty street tyre rather then death trap lol. I'd also say go with the advice above, get a set of good street tyres, something around Michelin Pilot Sport 4S quality level. Once you start making more power, you could consider going to semi's if you think the cost/performance ratio makes sense.

So pretty

My crystal ball says if he is buying upgraded fuel pumps, drilling out a venturi, buying an upgraded fuel pressure regulator, if he doesn't already have an upgraded rail/injectors, it's only a matter of time now lol.

I vote Radium direct mount regulator. It's super nice mounting the reg directly on the rail. Keeps everything neat and tidy, saves space and saves on fittings/hoses/etc

What's the news?

I've got the same diff, mine never made any noise remotely close to what your describing. It's been perfect for the 8 or so years its been in the car now.

I see @hypergear do the N55 turbo, I wonder how similar the N54 is? https://hypergearturbos.com/product/bmwn55/

Have a think about an upgraded clutch pivot ball, it's cheap insurance.

At a very general level - On the street, going wider you'll notice more tramlining and tendency to hydroplane in standing water. (On the street, one would hope you aren't doing anything to cause a tyre to overheat, however if you are the below also applies). On the track, going wider improves the tyres ability to handle heat which improves grip levels and wear rates. Wider tyres generally means larger tread blocks, this again improves the tyres ability to handle heat.

What does the just send it button do?

Sometimes the correct decision is to stop throwing good money after bad If the company that sold that kit had a picture on their site of it fitting correctly, I'd be chasing a refund (false advertising) and going down another path. I can't see your 'cheap' body kit being cheap after you've paid the bodyshop to make it fit.

So would an extra 6" be enough? lol https://www.quickjack.com.au/accessories/slx-frame-extension-kit-pair.html

It's not cheap, but would something like this work - https://www.quickjack.com.au/accessories/truck-adapter-set.html

So, Sparco QRT-C $2,546 Sparco alloy side mounts $356 (steel ones are $180, but we are balling here) Sparco base plate $395 Everything x 2 = $6,594 with a potential weight savings of 15.38kgs provided they are starting with powered seats. Don't mention that fact that we just replaced seats that previously reclined and previously could slide back and forth on a rail, with a seat that doesn't recline or slide. Worst bit being, using a factory 3 point harness with that seat would be a nightmare and it's not street legal/not ADR approved. I still stand by my previous point that pulling weight out of a street car is not realistic or practical. Don't add lightness, just add performance/power. If you want a lightweight car, start with a lightweight car.

Here it is. R33_Wiring_Diagram.pdf

I'm not going to do this for every "actual example" you gave, so lets just do the first "example". So this carbon seat you're going to install, are you planning to just place it in the car and hope that with enough hopes and dreams it will stay in place or are you planning to mount it properly? Looks like you might need one of these - (it weighs 1.45 kg) https://www.sparcousa.com/product/qrt-side-mount-steel And one of these - (Amazon lists the weight as, 2.26 kg) https://www.sparcousa.com/product/seat-base-600-series Sparco don't list the weight on their site (probably because the real weight is too heavy to market well, so they just leave it out), hopefully the Amazon data is accurate, but who knows. Anyways, the moral of the story is, you are not installing a Sparco QRT-C seat at 6-8kg total when the side mount and base plate are 3.71 Kg on their own. Anecdotally; I have a bride fixed back seat in my car, on alloy side plates and on a bride steel base plate. I can tell you that as soon as you mount one of these 'super light fixed back seats' they are no longer super light weight. I'm not typing all of this up to have a go at you, I'm typing it up in an effort to keep facts on this site factual. You just asked for help with a wiring diagram, how helpful would it be if everyone here gave you a pinout that was "close enough" I mean, half the wires are correctly labelled, isn't that good enough for you? You'd kinda want all of your wires to be correctly labelled yeah? When people talk about how much weight they can save by swapping 2 parts, I think it would be most helpful if the numbers posted reflected reality.

So, you just made up a bunch of numbers? Do you really think making up numbers helps anyone? It's about as helpful as all the fake weight loss ad's, "Lose 10KG in 10 days with these meal replacement shakes!!"... uh huh.

My street tyres really have to be able to hold up to everything. I just drove down to Sydney for WTA, if a crazy storm hit on the way back up to QLD, I still want to be confident with the way the car handles and feel that I can safely get home. That's good news for the RS4's, I was a little concerned when I measured the tread depth at just under 6mm, I would be over the moon to get 20k out of them. I'm surprised how much life you got out of the R888R's as they are rated at 100 treadwear.

Reporting back on the NS2R 120 treadwear. I only got 6,400 KM on the rears, no track work and no shenanigans on the road. They were really nice while they lasted, even in the wet. I would really like to get around 10,000 km from my street tyres so I'm trying RS4 now. Initial thoughts on the RS4 are the dry grip levels feel similar to the NS2R, so if I can get 10,000 km out of them I'll be really happy and probably won't bother trying any other street tyres and I'll just stick with them.

A surface that the primer can bond to and not easily flake/peal off.

If you were keen to see what your air fuel ratio is, you're only real option is to install a wideband o2 sensor and a control unit/display/gauge. It's worth mentioning, if you were planning to buy an aftermarket ECU sometime in the future, I'd think about holding off on buying the wideband until you get the ECU. Then get the ECU with a built in wideband sensor or buy the associated CAN based sensor. The standalone wideband gauges can be plumbed into an aftermarket ECU, but they are a bit shit compared to a wideband that is operating over a CAN network or is built into the ECU (voltage offset errors are a nightmare, there is not fault reporting to the ECU, etc). Regarding the 82% learn reading, if the car is running fine otherwise, I wouldn't be too worried about it. The gauges aren't giving you enough information to be able to work out if there is something you should be worried about regarding the air/fuel mixtures. Getting the external wideband o2 gauge would give you the information you needed to work out if something was wrong with the AFR.

Why not swap the studs one at a time without removing the head?