Murray_Calavera

Slightly off topic question, but this jogged my memory - Is there anything special you need to do to inspect the spherical bushes / is it obvious when they become worn? I also do the some poly, some spherical and it might be the case that I've had some spherical bushes for maybe 5 years? without any thought/maintenance/they haven't been touched since installed.... I've always associated worn bushes with clunking noises, so no clunk, no issue, but I'm guessing this isn't actually best practice lol.

Having moved from NSW to QLD, I can tell you that QLD rego is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy easier to sort. It's not even close. My R33 is mod plated, everything is listed, I couldn't believe how easy and pain free the process was compared to the NSW engineering process (which I have also gone through previously and is not a fun experience).

Heaps of ways you could do it. Lets assume its not just zero f's given. Plan out the route with a mate. Have your mate drive in front of you, say about 1km ahead. If they spot a RBT site/defect station/highway patrol hiding by the side of the road, your mate calls you. You see the call come in and you pull over straight away. Find a side street to turn off or do a U-turn etc. If your super paranoid have a car follow behind to spot any highway cars on approach so you can quickly turn into a side street etc. For sure he would have enough mates/community resources to be able to pull this off with ease. Having said that, what I think is actually happening is, he knows the areas he is driving in. He knows there are never RBT sites set up there and just keeps an eye out for police/highway cars and picks his moments for when he is going to do a pull.

Yeah, that harness really does scream, please defect me! For anyone wondering, you can use a harness on the road but it needs to automatically retract the same way the stock seatbelt retracts (and I'm assuming its a quality harness that is installed correctly). Still needs to be signed off by an engineer, but it would be easy to get signed off on (this is for NSW in any case).

Umm I suppose technically you don't "need" one. I wouldn't even consider running a car without one though. Also if you get a decent ECU, you'll want to use the wideband o2 settings and engine protection. Also in this day and age, I would only use a CAN based wideband.

Hmm... looks like this is an unpopular opinion but it's what I did. I don't see any issue with tuning the car yourself. So, from base map to 99% sorted, all by yourself with tuning on road. Then once you're happy you can't improve the tune any further, take the car to the dyno and get the timing dialled in. You'll probably only need to pay for an hour of dyno time and the car will be amazing. My primary method of learning to tune was from Evans Performance Academy. They are nice enough to hand out all of their content for $50USD, can't beat that value. If there were any knowledge gaps, I'd see if there was a HP academy webinar coving the topic, if I was still stuck I'd hit up Haltech and their amazing tech's would help me get it sorted (I fkn love Haltech and their tech guys). I think you'll know pretty quick if this is something you want to do/want to learn to do. If you are keen to learn and are sensible in your approach, I don't think there is any risk with doing all the tuning on your car yourself.

Are you doing this solely as a cost saving measure? I imagine future you will be rather annoyed saving a whole $1,000 on pistons when you find yourself wanting more power in future. The engine build won't be cheap regardless of the pistons used so it seems silly not to just do it properly first go.

@[SKYHI] Did you log any data?

You might find that even if you jump through all of these hoops, spend a mountain of cash to un-turbo your car, that you still get defected/ticketed by the cops anyway. The system shows your car is a prohibited vehicle. They aren't mechanics, they are police. You telling them "I know its a turbo skyline, but trust me officer, I took the turbo off". Probably won't get you very far. If your unlucky, now you've got a very expensive ticket to fight at court. Say you take it to court, the magistrate asks you, is the vehicle you were driving on the list of prohibited vehicles? You see where I'm going with this....

Going off GTS and the website, seems like the dwell times are a close enough of match that they will run. When the PRP site says, "to maximise performance use the dwell data that can be found on our web page" so I guess they are admitting that the factory ECU dwell settings aren't 100% match for what the coils want but yeah, it seems that its close enough that the car will run. At the end of the day, sounds like you need coils and I can almost 100% guarantee that at some stage in the future you will want an aftermarket ECU.... So, its fine either way? You'll end up buying both at some stage lol.

https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/products/rb-r35-vr38-coil-bracket-kit-rb20-rb25-rb26?variant=37826663874728 From what I can see - No coils, $771 Coils included, $1477

Would something like this fit under the driver/passenger seat? Might not need to worry about a standalone amp this way as well. Just run the speakers from the headunit and the sub is self powered. https://mm.jbl.com/car-subwoofers/BASSPRO+SL2-.html

With all your Haltech sensors, I'm guessing you also have a Haltech ECU? Grab the right software for your ECU from here. https://www.haltech.com/downloads/ Here is a nice little quick start guide. When you setup the data logger, you can just log every channel to keep things easy.

I was hoping you were going to say you have an aftermarket ECU. So, personally I wouldn't buy a R35 coil kit without already having an aftermarket ECU. I would be concerned about dwell time settings that the R35 coils want, might not match up with the original coils dwell time. With the aftermarket ECU you can set the dwell times so happy days. Stock ECU... not so much. I don't know how many people out there would be running $1000 worth of coil kit on a stock ECU, so dunno if anyone can personally confirm that it runs well on the stock ECU?

What ECU are you using?

You could go for a drive, plug in a laptop and log data. If you upload the data here, that would answer a lot of questions.

All good mate. No need to worry about actually hitting the 100 km mark, just zero out your trip meter the next time you fill up. Then whenever you decide to refill again, fill up the tank and post up how much fuel you used and the km driven. As for burning 54L/100km, I'd be amazed if that was the actual figure. If that was real, that is batshit crazy rich and I'm amazed the car runs well. We really need the actual numbers to be able to give proper feedback. Do you have a wideband o2 sensor in the car? Can you tell us what your cruising AFR's are like?

Life is easier for everyone if you use L / 100 km. What is your cruising AFR's like? Are we talking highway or around town fuel economy?

Would you consider using a dye and UV light to trace the leak?

I'll just leave this here - https://www.wiringspecialties.com/rb25-coil-pack-harnesses/

The bride website is pretty good for playing machy machy with their seats/rails. https://bride-jp.com/en/seatrail/

So reading this, I doubled checked the receipt for my diff..... @Kinkstaah sorry mate for all the confusion above. I have a Nismo GT Pro 2 way diff. I must have early onset dementia, I forgot it was the pro version =/ Sorry for the confusion everyone

@Kinkstaah I can 100 million % confirm that my nismo diff is the 1.5 way you are thinking of. I can still remember the exact moment when I forked out the $$ for a 2 way diff, looked inside and saw the uneven ramp angles and thought, f**k me, its a 1.5 way and not a 2 way. I was expecting that when I paid for a 2 way and all the nismo documentation, that silly certificate that nismo do, everything is stamped 2 way that I would in fact get what I thought was a 2 way diff, that is equal lock in either direction. Nope, full lock on accel and half lock on decell. I just accepted it and installed the diff, it was fine in the end. It turns out I really like the diff. I'm not going to strip the diff and take photos, but I can upload a photo of the silly certificate nismo do saying my diff is a 2 way if you like lol. I'm pretty sure I know the diff noise you are describing though. When I put a Cusco RS diff in my swift, it sounded like the diff was trying to smash itself out of the gearbox. It was an absolute nightmare. Fortunately the issue was solved by using Motul FF LSD gearbox oil, fkn expensive to change (I replaced it every 5,000k's) but worth the $ as it eliminated all the angry diff issues.

@Kinkstaah yeah that does sound truly miserable. Have you had the chance to drive/ride in other skylines with the same diff though? Mine doesn't drive anywhere near like what you are describing. The only non-factory sounds mine makes is at really low speed, like doing a 3 point turn or navigating a parking lot, you get the inside wheel lock up sometimes like its a welded diff (doesn't happen all the time though and my diff is setup to be quite aggressive in the way it locks up) and it sometimes makes little diff clunk noises (not all the time though) but the wheel chirp and diff clunk isn't what I'd call bad at all, I really like the added character when it happens lol.

I'm not native but my Japanese is better then nothing. I've translated the buttons I can see - 1. menu 2. bird's eye view 3. map / CD 4. return / go back 5. wide view / zoom out 6. close up view / zoom in 7. vehicle information 8. screen / image 9. TV If you get stuck navigating the menus once the car is on, feel free to upload photos and I can help you out with rough translation.