Murray_Calavera

The Nitto oil pump is much stronger compared to factory. It also flows substantially more compared to the factory pump, the restrictors and needed in the head due to the increased flow/pressure provided from the upgraded pump. If you upgrade the oil pump, to do it properly, you would also upgrade the sump (larger capacity and baffled) and improve the oil return (breathers back to the sump, and possibly an additional oil drain from the head).

Lots of good advice in here already. I'll just add, before you feel like you 'need' to do XYZ, just remember there are plenty of 100% stock RB25's out there making 300kw living a perfectly happy life with the use case your describing.

Sorry mate, that is pretty shit. I'd almost guarantee the seller knew about these issues when the car was sold too... To give some proper advice, we'll need some more details to be able to make a proper recommendation. How much power do you want to reliably make? Will the car see track use? Will you use R comp tyres, do any drifting, or use anti lag/2step? etc?

This could be a mechanical issue, but assuming everything is correct mechanically, you could 100% have this issue from a tuning issue (or should I say lack of tuning). Fortunately it's quite a simple thing to setup. If you have a laptop and the interest in learning how to tune, I and many others here could walk you through the tuning process so that the car doesn't stall when the A/C compressor engages.

I wonder how many people have had their block crack tested, found tiny cracks between the head stud holes and water galleries that are only visible with crack testing, then went on to use the block anyway. The engine I'm slowly building, the block came back from crack testing with a couple of those cracks identified... the machinist told me those cracks were very common and not to worry about it. And if it was his block, he'd still use it. I'd feel a lot better about it if a bunch of people here have used similarly cracked blocks without issues (say up to 450kw ish without issue).

Did you map the e throttle 100% to the 50%-70% in those areas of the map or was the increase in power/torque not worth going to the effort?

I'd be keen to get more details around that.

Probably doesn't matter much saying this now, but as for resale value, couldn't you have kept all of the stock parts and then come sale time (if it ever comes) swap it back to stock. Then you can enjoy whatever parts you want to run, single turbo etc and enjoy the good resale. Win win?

I think we just solved this dilemma, oil pump upgrade is an engine out job. So can probably put a pin in this until your ready to pull the motor. Ah yep, there are quite a few options with regards to your rev limiter. You can cut fuel, or spark or both. You can cut everything all at once and when you hit the limiter it's like hitting a brick wall lol. Or you can slowly introduce the cut, progressively cutting more cylinders over a RPM range, this style of rev limiter is really soft, kinda feels like the car has developed a misfire and just stops making power. No harsh cut at all. Yeah well, I suppose we can all say stay away from the fun button until you've got all this sorted but you already know your playing with fire there lol.

Hmm that's a big job to pull the motor just to upgrade the pump and harmonic balancer. The average bear would probably bundle in more work at the same time, engine build or what have you. Your call though, suppose if your putting in all the work, your only paying for parts and machine work so I guess it's only costing you extra time in the end. What type of rev limiter are you using at the moment and what is the type of driving your doing on the street that is making you concerned about the oil pump? As for if it would hurt or not doing those upgrades, I suppose it's only going to hurt the wallet and/or your time in labour pulling the motor etc (provided the parts are installed correctly and to spec. Lots of things could hurt otherwise lol)

Is the engine still in your car and it's currently running without issue? If everything is currently fine, why not just tune the car to protect the oem pump and drive the car with mechanical sympathy. You could setup a really soft progressive rev limiter, no 2 step/anti lag, stay off the limiter as soon as it starts to cut, etc etc. Then put away the pennies until your ready to sort the entire oil control system in one go?

I thought that went without saying. Kinda like saying buying a bigger turbo sets you down a rabbit hole of buying bigger injectors, fuel pump, ECU upgrade etc. I would have thought that anyone spending big on an oil pump would also have sorted the rest of the oil control system.

I can't see any issues with running a cat and having the setup you're after. A high quality metal cat will hold up no problems to what you'd be asking from it.

Ah ok, probably safe to say he still isn't making the same mistake 15 years later lol. With regards to the flames, are you talking anti-lag or just some flames on overrun when you shift gears at high RPM?

A modern ECU has so many engine protection features that this should never happen in this day and age. Is your 'tuner friend' a friend that tunes ECU's or a friend that likes 'tuner cars'? With regards to running a cat or not, you will be able to achieve the power level you want while still running a cat. Unless there is another specific reason you want to delete the cat, I think there is a very strong case for continuing to run a (high flow) cat.

Just reading a bit more, it seems like these seats use a side mount, it keeps referring to them as an 'integrated sidemount' so I'm not sure how easy it would be to use an adjustable sidemount with them. Might be worth looking into if the Sportster CS can be used with an adjustable sidemount. Surely that would be problem solved if thats the case.

Yep, the rails will have an impact on the overall seat height. In this instance though I bet there will be hardly anything in it, surely the Recaro rails will be well designed and I bet they will be near identical to the factory rail height. If he said, and I plan to use these cheap no-name $100 seat base/rails, then yeah I'd be concerned about the impact they will have on the seating height. So what I was suggesting is, using the assumption that the factory rails and Recaro rails will have a similar impact on the seating height, he can measure the thickness of the seat base as this will likely be the largest impact on the overall seat height.

Hmm I don't think there is anything to be concerned about, but I doubt me saying that will convince you. I also doubt anyone with these seats will reply in this thread (at $6000ish for a pair I'd be surprised to find anyone running these seats in an R chassis). So my solution is, take measurements yourself and see what you think. Measure up your factory seats and compare with this -

Is your concern that the Recaro seat will sit so low that visibility will be impacted?

100% this, it would just end up being a new black hole for the funds to be shovelled into lol.

I think it sounds really good actually lol. I turned my VCT on at idle and dropped the timing to 0, my car didn't sound anything like that and I was very sad

I vote you upload a video of your idle in here for those that haven't heard it before. (For those that haven't heard it, you need to hear it to appreciate how good it sounds)

Sounds good. Have you started approaching any workshops yet? It doesn't sound like your plan needs to change from what you intended to do from the start.

What was your intention when you bought the car, did you plan to repair it yourself or were you planning to find a shop to do the work for you?

Unfortunately cars get stolen with tow trucks all the time . I still wouldn't call skull dragging a car onto a tow truck a great length for a motivated thief. That's why the first thing I said was, the primary defence is to keep the car out of sight. If our thief with a tow truck doesn't know it's there, he isn't coming for it.