Murray_Calavera

Just checking, is there a check valve in the fuel pump or installed in the line?

I would be keen to see what the fuel pressure and AFR mixture is at the time the engine dies.

What ECU do you have? Have you had a fuel pressure gauge on it while it died? When you say "then not turn over again" do you actually mean the engine won't physically turn over or do you actually mean the engine turns over but doesn't fire?

Is there any chance at all that you could return it for a refund?

Which set costs 4k? The MCA Pro Comfort full set is $2,490. There is another option that gets you a bit closer to your original budget, the Voston Comfort set is $1,890. Maybe have a chat with MCA and see if it would suit your needs. There is nothing magical about the factory coilovers. Aftermarket coilovers can be setup to more comfortable then the factory suspension. When you have complete control over the spring rates and valving, you can select the specs that are right for you.

You've got this thing connected to your phone over Bluetooth yeah? Would you be able to upload a screenshot of the gauges/meters you would like some clarification on?

Just to clear something up, coilovers are a coil spring over a shock body, coil-over. The factory suspension component you are calling a strut is a 'coilover'. I know what you are talking about but it might be confusing for others. Saying the factory coilover is more reliable (or lasts longer) then an aftermarket coilover is not accurate - provided we are talking about a quality aftermarket coilover. It's really hard to explain how much nicer a high quality mono-shock is compared to a cheap twin tube shock. As with so many things in life, until you've experienced it for yourself, anything I write here will just be words on a screen. You're in a bit of a tricky spot, sitting on a set of king springs that you want to use... I would want to pair them with something like a set of Koni or Bilstein shocks. But by the time you buy the shocks, you've spent another $1,500ish... and what you have is a set of non-height adjustable coilovers that don't have the valving perfectly matched to your springs.... and sure you can have them re-valved but it all adds up. But yeah, it puts you so close to a set of MCA Pro Comfort for $2,500, which you can have a chat with MCA first and select the perfect spring rates and shock valving..... I just think there is so much more value in spending a bit more and getting the MCA setup.

Occam's razor says the issue with the airbag probably has something to do with the horn issues. Let us know how you go either way. I vote poor value. Assuming the fronts are the same cost, so around $900 for shocks alone? Your so close to paying for a set of MCA?shockworks coilovers once you factor in buying king springs as well. I'd keep saving for the big boy coilovers. Future you will thank you.

The sensors protect you against changes. If you tune a car properly on a wideband, then remove the wideband, the car should run exactly the same provided the car is operating within the parameters of its tune, and provided nothing fails on the car causing a change in the AFR mixture. On a properly tuned car, the wideband should only be making very small adjustments to the tune, think 1% or 2%, adjusting for the atmospheric conditions at the time. Well its your car, do you need someone to tell you what to do to it? What would you rather, a blown head gasket or the car to engage its engine protection condition in the event that you start to lift the head? Its like a $130 sensor. Do what you think is best. Power level isn't the primary factor for having oil starvation, the way the car is driven is the primary factor. As an example, if you put some slicks on an otherwise stock skyline and push it round the track, you will 100% have oil starvation issues in high G high speed corners. Having big power just makes it easier to achieve the conditions where oil control is an issue. If you just potter around on the streets on slippery tyres, sure you won't have any issues with oil starvation.

Cars have been tuned without those sensors fitted for a long long time now. When the car is on the dyno, they put a wideband o2 sensor up the car's but to get the AFR. So you didn't "have' to buy those sensors, you could have taken the car to another tuner. Obviously it makes sense to run those sensors though. Did you also install an oil temp and coolant pressure sensor? Those are also sensors that you would run engine protection on. But yeah, do whatever you think is best. It's called a broken turbo, burnt valves, broken oil pump.... Ah sure, did your tuner also ask you to install an electronic throttle body and individual wheel speed sensors? If you are going to be as liberal with the anti lag as it seems you are by the description you've given it, just be prepared that your engine and everything hanging off the hot side will become a consumable.

It could still be bottoming out on the bump stop. This is a really good (and short!) video explaining what I'm talking about -

Sounds like you've found a used part? If the price is right, say around $200 - $300 and they are not leaking and there is nothing else that is obviously wrong with them, this is a good value option. If the king springs are progressive spring rate, they will be even comfier for the street. It's all money at the end of the day, if you spend more you'll get more. If there is any chance you see yourself taking the car to the track, I'd very strongly consider saving up for a set of MCA/Shockworks coilovers. It is possible to have a comfortable ride on the street while still performing well on track. Also, it might be worth looking into how your ride height has been setup with your current coilovers. There is a chance that they've been setup in a way that has drastically reduced your suspension travel, so the harshness your feeling is actually just the suspension bottoming out (if this is the case it can be easily sorted).

It was crazy the amount of locals I met that drank the bore water straight out of the tap =/ Its funny now that I think about it, all the day trips I did into Dubbo, I never drank the tap water. I just drove the 4 hours each way and didn't say the night in Dubbo, so didn't really have the chance to be exposed to it. Based on the size of Dubbo, I always assumed the water would have been like Sydney water, guess not lol.

I'm guessing your mechanic will say, if you can buy a complete control arm, just do that. But yeah, ask them and see what they say.

Quick google found this - https://whiteline.com.au/search/product/steering-suspension/suspension/bushings/bushings-for-2010-nissan-skyline/front-control-arm-lower-inner-bushing-kit-to-suit-nissan-350z-skyline-and-stagea-9986-w52991-167168-pid-175615.html?mv=(make%3D[NISSAN]%26model%3D[SKYLINE]%26year%3D[2010])&vehicle=33951-277391 https://whiteline.com.au/search/product/steering-suspension/suspension/bushings/bushings-for-2010-nissan-skyline/front-control-arm-upper-bushing-kit-to-suit-nissan-350z-370z-and-skyline-9986-w52988-167167-pid-175614.html?mv=(make%3D[NISSAN]%26model%3D[SKYLINE]%26year%3D[2010])&vehicle=33951-277391

Yeah, that's why I do everything myself now.

If you think your local water is bad, I pray you never experience bore water in an outback town lol.

Did you measure the original part you removed for comparison?

If you get a chance to do before/after dyno runs when you throw the real cats in I would be super keen to see the results

BCPR7ES. I change them every 20,000 kms. A search will probably dig up quite a few threads on what spark plugs to use.

Yeah, I'm betting a combination of fuel pump is positioned higher then the factory pump and the filter/sock is shorter then the factory sock. Have a look at the frenchys performance garage hanger setup, they generally position the fuel pump nice and low so would be a good comparison for however you set your pump up.

That is a good point. The closest thing I can think of is this episode of Might Car Mods, where they made 425KW with the exhaust valve closed, then opened the valve and made the same 425KW. (around 19 min into the video). I would think having the exhaust valve closed would be more restrictive then say going from 100 to 300 cell cat? But yeah I'm still guessing.

Has anyone seen dyno runs back to back while cats were swapped to see their impact? I would strongly consider putting in a better cat (I'm using 100 cell too) if I could be sure it wasn't having a large impact on performance. Side note, @Dose Pipe Sutututu what are your thoughts on building a 1 series 135i? The entry price seems pretty reasonable for the earlier models and look like a pretty good base to start working from. (But then again I don't know anything about BWM's and I'm basing this off looking at a spec sheet and car sales prices lol)

What a fantastic idea for a street car. Why don't you also bin the air conditioning, heater core and all their associated parts as well? You might almost find another 20kgs there too! If it is a street car, I don't think there is any realistic way to reduce the weight in a meaningful way while still retaining pleasant street manners. The OEM wasn't trying to add weight for fun, they don't like weight either - yet the car you have is the best they could manage while still being a pleasant street car. If your reason for lowering the weight is to improve performance, then just do that. Add power, sort the suspension and run the stickiest tyres you're prepared to live with. An R35 GTR probably weighs more then your car... Probably performs a little bit better too.

That would make a lot more sense. If that car that the OP linked there was a NA RWD Stagea, the weight reduction numbers would line up perfectly, a whole 20kgs of interior removed brining the car to 1500kgs.