Murray_Calavera

Hello again! Have you brought the rotors into a brake supply store in person? I would expect that the current rotors could be matched up pretty quickly if the staff at the store were able to play with them in person.

The curse of the jelly brake fluid strikes again lol. Glad it's sorted now though

Were measurements taken? You can't really eyeball a crank and say its in spec. I'd be interested to see what was recorded, you can compare it with the specs in the workshop manual that I've attached. I don't know what is local to you, but an engine dyno would do exactly what your describing. Up to you if you think it's worth the cost and time to run the engine up on a dyno before it's put in the car. It's also a nice way to break in a freshly built engine.

@MBS206 I've got the factory heat exchanger, oil temp sensor in my sandwich plate and water temp sensor in the factory location. Happy to log data if you like.

Thanks for posting this up, the work is very impressive! Do you mind saying what the total cost of the conversion was in the end?

Do you have the associated wiring on the back of your AC/heater climate control unit? Hopefully you do and you can trace the wires from there. I've also attached the R33 wiring diagram. R33_Wiring_Diagram.pdf

I didn't realise how many cops were in here!

Josh's Haltech 2500 samples the oil pressure sensor at 50hz, I wouldn't call that slow. The engine protection activation time will be set by Josh, so he can set it to whatever he thinks is appropriate. I 100% agree with the essence of what you are saying though, and I would advocate for both the accusump and engine protection, I just wanted to add some numbers to the 'sensors take time' bit.

@joshuaho96 Its getting to the point where buying your own dyno might be the cheaper option for you in the long run lol

It doesn't need an ECU and doesn't need to go in the engine bay.

Sure thing - It's hard to tell if this will be a problem for you. "occasional track use" means different things to different people. If your "occasional track use" means going to the track on cheap street tyres. You can probably guarantee that there won't be an issue. Your tyres won't let you pull enough G's in the corners to slosh the oil away from the pick up and your tyres won't allow you to use enough throttle to fill the head with oil. But if your "occasional track use" is 1 event a year, but on that event you fit a set full slick tyres and load them up properly, you could pop the motor on your first session of the day.

If you were said person and seriously considered engineering a modern scavenge pump into an ancient RB motor, wouldn't you just go dry sump instead?

It is very likely that the car already had a blown head gasket when you bought it, which is why the previous owner sold it. The symptoms you describe very much sound like a blown head gasket. The mechanic saying it's a blown head gasket sounds like it has a blown head gasket. If I had to guess I'd also say it has a blown head gasket.

Yep. The Taarks block deletes the factory oil warmer/cooler. The sandwich plate I linked attaches to the factory oil warmer/cool (where your oil filter is now) then the oil filter attaches to the sandwich plate. I run the sandwich plate option, I don't have any issues with access to the oil filter. The above kits are good if you want to relocate your oil filter.

You've been taking the car to a mechanic but they can't diagnose the overheating issue?

I've seen brake fluid turn to a jelly like substance and then become really difficult to bleed. Have you tried removing the bleeder nipple completely and jamming the vacuum bleeder in the hole? Other thoughts include removing the ABS unit from the equation - https://au.gktech.com/stainless-steel-braided-teflon-lined-abs-delete-kit

I haven't checked to see if these fit your 34gtt, these are just an example of what you'd use if you want to keep your factory cool/warmer. https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/oil-sandwich-plate-thermostatic.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwocShBhCOARIsAFVYq0hIlVu5UWwYaV7hFCYJPSO3kPickUhDLNGOwigYNyYZUgCw5kas5eYaAs6_EALw_wcB https://justjap.com/products/hpi-oil-filter-sandwich-plate-attachment-universal-m20-p1-5?currency=AUD

Oh my bad. What I mean is, you can have an oil cooler and keep the factory oil cooler/warmer. The factory oil cooler/warmer will help bring your oil temps up after a cold start. The Taarks oil block deletes the factory cooler/warmer.

Why do you want to get rid of your oil warmer/cooler in a street car?

Well, if you've already got it then see how it goes for your use case. We can all pretty much confirm it's not as good as the stock fan, all we can hope now is that it is good enough for how you will personally use the car.

Mine did that too. I replaced it with a non-cracked oem fan. Works well.

I've got a thermostat in my sandwich plate and the factory oil cooler/warmer, my oil temps come up at pretty much the same rate as my water temps.

Seems like you don't want to put the cooler in, that's fine. Turn your engine protection on, set the oil temp to what your comfortable with, when the car tells you it's party over, go back into the pits and let it cool down. If you find your not happy with the frequency of your rest breaks, install your oil cooler. As you extend your track time, you'll then run into your next overheating issue. If I had to guess it would be brakes/tyres overheating.... and the cycle repeats itself...

It's really hard to judge if that quote is cheap, expensive or priced correctly. The cost of your harness will vary greatly depending on the quality of materials used, if it's completely sealed, the type of connectors used, etc. It's like asking if a quote for an engine build is cheap and giving none of the details of the parts used, machining required etc. Just a couple of example of what I'm talking about - This 18 gauge TXL wire. About $1 a metre - https://www.rapidcables.com.au/txl-automotive-primary-copper-wire This 18 gauge 44 spec Raycham wire. About $2 a metre - https://www.motorsportelectrics.com.au/shop-by-product/product/16-18-44-spec-raychem-wire-10-metre-minimum-each-colour 1 metre of 3/16" DR25 heat shrink. About $9 a metre - https://www.motorsportelectrics.com.au/shop-by-product/product/raychem-dr25-heatshrink 1 metre of 5mm Jaycar special heat shrink. About $2 a metre - https://www.jaycar.com.au/5-0mm-black-heatshrink-tubing/p/WH5533?pos=2&queryId=40024a8a7b0f399a645d96f628fe16cf&sort=relevance The cost of these consumables add up very quickly. What part of the harness was damaged/what needs repairing?

Where does your ECU get the speed signal from?