Murray_Calavera

Took the car for a hard drive (the same drive that melted the Taark kit) and a couple of casual drives today. The terminal temps appear to be tied to ambient temps. After each drive, including the hard drive, the terminal temps were always within 3 degrees of the other metal surfaces in the boot. Everything appears perfect so far. I suppose the next real test will be when I drive down for WTA, I'll check the temps at each fuel stop and see if extended drives change anything. (Just waiting for, see it was the crimps all along! Pretty crimps now and no issues, must be the crimps! lol)

Update time, the Efi Hardware bulkhead terminals are in. The quality of the kit is leaps and bounds better compared to the Efi Solutions/Taarks kit. I was not happy with the Taarks kit, however I am very happy with the Efi Hardware kit so far. Being able to torque down the plastic insulator is a huge help. The longer post and jam nuts also make life easier. I didn't bend the eyelet terminals 90 degrees to fit inside the bulkhead this time. I performed some surgery to the bulkhead to fit the terminals without bending them (in case the bend increased resistance in the terminal). Unfortunately I didn't have time to drive the car, but letting it idle for about 10 minutes and the power terminal went from about 13 degrees to 16 degrees. I'll update again after I've taken the car for a good shakedown to check temps. As promised, I have taken some photos so my crimps can be judged by all. Crimps were made with Delphi crimper (part number 12085271) Heat shrink is Raychem RW-200-E recovered at 170 degrees.

I assumed he would turbo it, blow up the gearbox, then put in a DET gearbox. Pretty much par for the course for new players lol.

Holy jesus christ! Yeah I would not be spending that on a piece of dinosaur technology. Surely you have plans to modify the car in future? You'll need an ECU very quickly on this modification journey anyway, way better money spent on the ECU rather then the MAF (that will end up in the bin anyway, even if it does work, once you install an aftermarket ECU. Just think how painful it will be for future you, throwing a working $700 part in the bin).

If an OEM MAF is expensive (I have no idea what they go for) I would strongly consider putting the money towards an aftermarket ECU and putting the MAF in the bin. Also, how do you know the car is running rich? Do you have a wideband o2 sensor setup?

@JC71 are still on the stock ECU?

You'd have more luck finding that out by contacting 3G Spares, rather then asking some randoms on the internet. Direct from their ad, "Complete Engine Motor Package" "OEM factory complete RWD RB25DET Neo turbo engine package" "Engine conversion package". I mean, you say you want to do an engine conversion. They say it's a complete engine conversion package... I can only assume you want what they have. But yeah, maybe just ask them if you have any concerns.

Not hard. It is a factory option for the car. If you are planning to do the swap yourself and you have to ask if it's hard or not, then it sounds like you will find it quite challenging to do. Does the budget allow for the purchase of a RB25DET gearbox at the same time? Life will be so much easier if you can swap both the motor and box together, and it's not like your saving yourself any money either, you WILL need the bigger box in future. By doing it now you will save time, money and you won't find yourself broken down at the most inconvenient time in the future.

Well not really, 2-step doesn't care if you have 1 or 2 turbos. It will function the same either way, it will let you build boost while stationary. You should be concerned, it will 100% hurt your engine in the long run. But you want to shoot flames and have crazy pops/bangs yeah? lol.

Sounds like all you want is a button on your CAN dash pad that is for 2-step / anti lag launch. Hold the button down, rev limit gets set to whatever you want, say 5000 rpm. Then mass timing is pulled and a heap of fuel is dumped in for fun times. Want more bangs and flames, pull more timing or add more fuel or both lol. Obviously the more you use the fun button, the shorter the life of the entire hot side of your motor. So valves, turbo, cat, any sensors in the exhaust, etc etc. Well, if you are using it for its intended purpose it is very rewarding. If you are at the drags and want to launch on full boost, how else are you going to do that?

I promise it will get done as soon as I can, but that is still probably 3 months away.

Ok, I've just ordered the high amp flanged kit from EFI Hardware. Once it's installed, I'll go for progressively longer/harder drives and I'll check the temp of the terminals with the heat gun. If there are any issues with temp, I'll drop in the Walbro 460 which should draw about 5 less amps and I'll repeat the process checking temps. Also I'll make sure to take some high res photos of my crimps this time =P

Just looking at the instructions for these Efi hardware terminals, is anyone able to explain to me why the diameter of the hole must be specifically between 8.1 and 8.2 mm? If the post is 6mm, and you drill say a 7mm hole, how could this possibly cause an issue? In any case, the more I read these instructions, the more I think I want to give them a go. https://www.efihardware.com/download/237/866-033_M6_Bulkhead_Terminal_High_Amp

Those exact ones, with the hex head on the plastic insulators and the metal flange?

Any chance you are talking about the flanged area in the picture above as the 'landing on the bulkhead'? If so the Taarks kit doesn't have that. The ring terminal is slightly larger then the stud, I would not describe those two as making good contact with each other. My assumption was, the good contact comes from the 2 washers on either side of the ring terminal making a good connection, and the washers make a good connection with the nut, which makes a good connection with the stud. I'm guessing this was an incorrect assumption?

Just stumbled on this, sounds interesting - https://www.efihardware.com/products/3194/submersible-bulkhead-terminals-hex-head "Hex cup versions enable Insulating sealing cups to be torqued up against each other ensuring a tight seal eliminating bad resistance resulting in excessive heat from high amperage." When I installed the Taarks kit, I tried my best to tighten down the white plastic insulating , but they are round and threaded. So unfortunately the nuts don't cause them to clamp down due to the thread and I couldn't grip them very well to torque them down. I'd say they are only finger tight each side. The nuts however were torqued down well on each side. Just reading the Efi hardware site further, it just gets worse. So essentially they are saying the Taarks kit is only rated to 10 amps and should not be used on a plastic bulkhead. They recommend this connector that has the added flange on it for a plastic bulkhead -

Sounds good, what temperature range would you expect if everything is healthy? It's coming I promise, it just has to wait a little bit first. I don't really have the time to set it up at the moment. Yeah, surprised me too. Everything I read rated those ring terminals quite high. Perhaps the issue was with me bending the ring terminal about 90 degrees? Yep, the Taarks kit comes with nyloc nuts. This photo of the kit shows it pretty well. I'm not quite sure what you mean by having enough landing for the ring terminal though? As for the crimps, they are solid. I've crimped a million connectors in my car before, all the sensors, my dash, the quick connect terminals on my battery etc. Correct, but both are rated for the use. The wire inside the tank is 12 gauge Tefzel wire, it's rated for 25 amps continuous. The wire on the outside is 25 amp Jaycar wire. I only use Tefzel when I don't expect the change the wiring any time soon. As I expect to change the wiring outside the tank in the near future to setup PWM, I don't want to waste Tefzel wire. The ring connectors would be from either Supercheap or Jaycar. I triple checked it, the nuts were tight on both side of the bulkhead.

This might be another option too if the surgery allows for a straight lug to be used. Jaycar rates them at 30 amps - https://www.jaycar.com.au/6mm-non-insulated-eye-terminal-4mm2-pack-of-8/p/PT4932

@GTSBoy Makes sense. I'm guessing we'd have to use a cable lug, its tricky finding lugs suited for wire smaller then 0 gauge, but this looks like it might work? https://au.element14.com/panduit/lca10-10f-l/terminal-compression-lug-10-10awg/dp/2944903?CMP=KNC-GAU-GEN-SHOPPING-PLA-PMAX&mckv=_dc|pcrid||pkw||pmt||slid||product|2944903|pgrid||ptaid||&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw4ri0BhAvEiwA8oo6F3hR5QEQH43vntEUad27nYgwWzBmgdiYNqiQLBMe3C9pkkncxgv3oRoCciEQAvD_BwE Just need to do some surgery on the bottom of the bulkhead as even fitting the tiny ring connectors space is tight. But now that I'm in this situation, do I buy another stock bulkhead and give the bigger lugs a go or do I just drop $1000 on a frenchy setup? Hmmm.

So I decided to return to the parking lot with tools and a fuel pump thinking what else could it be at this stage? Umm yeah, really didn't think this was going to happen so soon (or hopefully at all).... Didn't even get 2 weeks out of the Taarks bulkhead terminals. Rated to 40 amps apparently. I'm running a 25 amp fuse in that circuit so that's interesting.

The car hates me. I'm 100% sure it's become sentient and actually hates me. Cold start this morning, perfect. Cold start after finishing work, perfect. Didn't go straight home, parked at the shops.... go back to the car for a hot start, nothing. Pump doesn't prime. Currently waiting for the car to cool down, fingers crossed it starts again once it's cold again.

If it actually sounds like this, could be a blown head gasket. Not having any overheating issues are you?

That looks like a really good price. I didn't call around, so I was relying on this for pricing - https://www.beaurepaires.com.au/tyres/yokohama/yokohama-advan-neova-ad09 Have you put many K's on them? Any chance you'd be able to estimate how many K's you'll get out of them? I suppose this is the big difference, if I'm taking the skyline out it's for a fun drive and fuel economy / preserving the tyres are not really front of mind lol. I had read so much on other forums as well where people were saying how long lasting the RS4's were on track that I think my expectations were probably just set to high.

They are eye-wateringly expensive though I could get 2 sets of RS4 and have change, for the same price as a set of AD09.

I can't remember the offset of the wheels, but my street rims are 17 x 7.5 front 8.5 rear. My track rims are 17 x 8 front 9 rear. This seems like madness to me as my 17x8 rims rub with 235/45 tyres on them. The street rims however are perfect. I do run 19mm steering rack spacers which makes things a little trickier, but yeah I just can't picture fitting another 1.5 inches of rim in there lol.